Need tips for removing Drum knives

[Davidsinatree]

I picked up a asplundh 12'' drum chipper and need to service the knives. The bolts look real rusty. I hope I'm wrong but I have this strange feeling removing the bolts & wedge blocks could be a PITA. Looks like the bolts are 1/2-13 socket head cap screws. 3/8 allen wrench.
What are some tips for removing bolts and then getting wedge blocks out?
My olathe drum was easy to remove knives and wedge blocks because there is side access to hit on wedge blocks but there is no side access to hit blocks from the end on this asplundh.
I have not yet tried to break bolts loose. I would first like to hear some good tips.

Thanks David

 

[topnotchtree]

Let the bolts soak with some penetrating oil for as long as you can. Clean out the cap screws so the allen wrench can go all the way in the head. ( I use an allen wrench that fits a ratchet) Sometimes you may need to use a torch fro some heat. When you remove the bolts you should find a very short bolt. This is just a plug to keep the threads clean. When you get all the bolts out, insert a long bolt in the hole you removed the short bolt from. When you screw this bolt in, it should pull out the wedge. After the wegde comes loose, use the long bolt as a handle to pull the wedge out of the drum. Good luck and let us know of any more questions.

 

[Davidsinatree]

Topnotchtree,
Are you saying therwe are jack screw threads in the wedge blocks? If so that would be awsome!!
I think I will add some heat to the wedge blocks. It could compromise the heat treat in the knife steel, but if that gets the bolts to break loose its worth it. These 12'' drum knives are cheap anyway. Only $20 a pop.
Thanks

 

[topnotchtree]

Yes, there are "jack screws" or whatever you call them. It has been awile, but I think if you spun the drum around you will see the holes the screws go into go all the way through the drum. So you can spin the drum to spray some PB Blaster in the holes from the backside. Just remember to clean everything when you reassemble and use LOTS of anti-seize!

 

[topnotchtree]

now that I looked at yout pic, I see 4 bolts. One center, two on the ends, and the odd one should be the puller-outer-hole.

 

[topnotchtree]

And I think I can see above the wedge, the bolt holes for the next pocket up on the drum.

 

[Davidsinatree]

Topnotchtree,
Thank you for helping me see that yes the holes are drilled all the way through. I will clean them out to soke them with kroil penatrant.
I was looking at those holes and wondering what they were. Duhh!!!
David

 

[begleytree]

I could be wrong, it's been a while, but, I was thinking that the wedge bolts don't go all the way through, that those 2 tapped holes you are looking at are the knife height adjusters. There are 3 bolts holding the wedge, the 2nd one from the left is the short hole to lift the wedge. I've had to use an impact (air) several hard hits down to knock the wedge loose.
don't forget to check and flip the cutter bar.
As you're looking at the knives, theres a small hole on the flip-up part of the chute, and a matching one on the outside (round part) of the drum, a small phillips screwdriver there prevents the drum from rolling while you're working, and is easier than dropping the clutch.
-Ralph

 

[topnotchtree]

Ralph, you may be right. I know most drum chippers have some kind of adjustment screws to adjust blade depth. The chipper I have is so old it does not have anything like that. The blades have to be set by hand. I do know that the holes go all the way thru on my drum. I have an asplundh 9" drum.

 

[begleytree]

TNT
9" asplundh? thats a good size to have. I've been wanting to pick up a drum for those maple jobs. Something in the 9-12" range. So much lighter and faster than my morbark disc. Not to mention easier to maintain! I remember being told once while watching a mech change blades in an asplundh, that when you pull the blade, toss it out flat onto the concrete floor, if it brakes, its junk, if not, have it sharpened. He threw them, but I never did. Ever hear that?
-Ralph

 

[topnotchtree]

Never heard of tossing blades. Yes it is a great size for me. I work for the big orange company and use my chipper for side jobs. I pull it with an old f350 with a stake bed that dumps. I hardly feel the chipper behind the truck. It has the 134 Ford industrial 4 cylinder motor. With proper blade adjustment and sharpness, it can chip some pretty impressive material.

 

[Davidsinatree]

Topnotchtree & Begelytree,
YAAAAAAA HOOOOOOO I got the bolts and wedge blocks out no problem.

Tell you a little SECRET I came up with.
Cut some small .005 steel shim stock the size of the hex flats and carefully lay shim down inside the bolt head flats. Then drive your allen head impact socket into the bolt head.
What this does is eliminate ALL slop between socket and bolt, makes a nice tight fit. IT WORKED 16 times perfect!!!
It takes time and patience to do but, drilling bolts out would have taken much longer.
A new set of simonds knives are on the way, should have this thing together soon.
Also flipping cutter bar and replacing all bolts with anti-sieze.
Thanks David

Here is a pick of my new chipper.
Asplund 12'' 4cyl 172ci FORD
She is in very good condition.

 

[Stumper]

Very cool David.

 

[begleytree]

All right!
Glad it worked out well.
Have you talked with netree about knife settings? He's played with them and found a sweet spot.
Get that chipper together and start feeding it, its hungry!
-Ralph

 

[topnotchtree]

Glad they come out for you! The hard part is over. thanks for the hex bolt tip. I will keep that in mind

 

[Beast12]

Here is a pick of my new chipper.
Asplund 12'' 4cyl 172ci FORD
She is in very good condition.

We have that EXACT same chipper at work except it doesn't have the blower. Works great and was a primary chipper up until 3 weeks ago. Works not too bad when the blades are sharp. We picked it up about 4 years ago for $3500 CANADIAN. Not too shabby!

-Matt

 

[Davidsinatree]

Beast12,
I picked this one up for $3500 on e-bay. I got the knives in and cutter bar flipped. Have not tried it out yet but I'm sure it will chip fine. My olathe will be for sale soon.

Topnotchtree,
Thanks for sending the manual to me over the winter. It has been worth its weight in gold for info about this chipper.
David

 

[topnotchtree]

Glad I could help!

 

[bajaboater]

Topnotchtree & Begelytree,
YAAAAAAA HOOOOOOO I got the bolts and wedge blocks out no problem.

Tell you a little SECRET I came up with.
Cut some small .005 steel shim stock the size of the hex flats and carefully lay shim down inside the bolt head flats. Then drive your allen head impact socket into the bolt head.
What this does is eliminate ALL slop between socket and bolt, makes a nice tight fit. IT WORKED 16 times perfect!!!
It takes time and patience to do but, drilling bolts out would have taken much longer.
A new set of simonds knives are on the way, should have this thing together soon.
Also flipping cutter bar and replacing all bolts with anti-sieze.
Thanks David

Here is a pick of my new chipper.
Asplund 12'' 4cyl 172ci FORD
She is in very good condition.

Can you explain how you removed your wedges? I have a M&M 16" drum that has two cap bolts.