Need Unbiased Opinion on Buying A Top Handled Saw

[caotropheus]

Unless you're in a tree, you don't have a need for a top handled saw. They're not going to be any easier on your wrists, and are considerably more dangerous to operate.

Space, I do not agree with you in any point of the use of the saw. Top handle chainsaws are also known as pruning saws. They are very easy to handle with a single hand and are used for example for pruning orchards. With practice many operators use a pruning saw single handed and use the other hand to hold branches and remove them. The handle is build in such a way that the center of gravity of the saw is located some millimeters in front of the throttle. The only point I cannot comment is the potential danger of top handle saws in relation to other saws because I do not know the statistics.

 

[BigE]

Unbiased opinion? Two conflicting words there...

I have an MS200T, and my father-in-law has a MS192 (not T, but basically the same saw). I paid $300, 6 months old (Craigslist), he paid $319 new.

The MS200T runs rings around the MS192. Faster, more low-end torque, and even starts easier. (And he has the easy start version!).

If you really enjoy spending your time running a saw, get a non-pro saw. You'll spend much longer cutting.

My advice would be to spend a few weeks looking at Craigslist...

 

[Analyst Man]

If you really enjoy spending your time running a saw, get a non-pro saw. You'll spend much longer cutting.

Not looking for an argument, but what does that mean?

 

[BigE]

Not looking for an argument, but what does that mean?

I'm just saying that the MS192 cuts a lot slower than the MS200. So, you'll spend a lot more time with your saw in the wood. It'll take a lot longer to get the job done. But hey, I know people that just *love* running a chainsaw, and are for some reason happier with a slow saw and dull chain. Go figure.

 

[J.Walker]

Just bought a Jonsered 2139. Same saw as the Husky 338.

 

[indiansprings]

My son just bought a very clean 200T for 375.00, it's a little monster.
When I needed a top handle a few years ago, I paid 40.00 bucks for an 009 off flea bay and it's still going. If I didn't have much trimming to do, I wouldn't sink much money in a top handle, unless I were in the business/tree trimming/aborist ours sit the majority of the year. I really don't like using them that much on the ground, used a rear handle too much. In a tree or loader or ladder is about all the use ours see.

 

[maccall]

I have arthritis, so I need something light and easy to start.
I realize that a Stihl MS-200T would probably be the very best, but when ya ain't got the money, ya just ain't got the money.
I have pretty much narrowed it down to a Stihl MS-192CE, a Husky T435, or an Echo CS-360T. All these are the same price ($299).

You want the MS192CE since it's one of the lightest saws ever, and is the only one of the saws you mentioned that has an easy-start function - and since it's not a top handle. You really don't want a top handle since they're a bit awkward to use when you're not climbing, and since a rear handle is safer to use.

 

[teacherman]

This issue is discussed here every week and of course I always repeat my self and I will give a link to the same video.



This is my suggestion. Echo have very nice top handle saws and they are the preference saws for horticulturists as a do it all around the orchard, here in my area. Yesterday I worked with a 341 to prune a citrus orchard for 40 min with no need to refuel it. I would go even to the CS-360. Just take a look of the 341 cutting bigger wood.

SEE POST #39. The Echo was Rob's first choice. I like the optional wooden starter handle.....
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=86043&page=3

 

[caotropheus]

SEE POST #39. The Echo was Rob's first choice. I like the optional wooden starter handle.....
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=86043&page=3

:jawdrop: Impressive indeed! How says that you cannot defy gravity!

 

[Analyst Man]

For top handle saws, this is as unbiased as I can get. The prices may be different where you live. There are probably some top handles that I missed, but this will give you a pretty good idea of what’s out there and the cost. They are listed in alphabetical order so I don’t offend anyone. For quality, you’ll have to do some research.

Dolmar 3410 T / power head 7.1 lbs / 34cc / $340
Echo CS-330 T / Power head 8.1 lbs / 32.6cc / $240
Echo CS-360 T / power head 8.1 lbs / 36.3cc / $270
Efco Model 132S T/ power head 7.5 lbs / 30cc / $270
Husqvarna T 435 / power head 7.5 lbs / 35.2cc / $300
Jonsered CS 2139 T / power head 7.7 lbs / 39cc / $360
Redmax G2500TS / power head 6.4 lbs / 25.4cc / $300
Redmax G3500T / power head 7.3 lbs / 35.23cc / $274
Solo 637 T / power head 8.1 lbs / 40.2cc / $340
Solo 633 T / power head 7.8 lbs / 36.3cc / $299
Stihl MS 192 T / power head 7.1 lbs / 30.1cc / $310
Stihl MS 200 T / power head 7.9 lbs / 35.2cc / $640
Tanaka ECS-3301 T / power head 7.3 lbs / 32CC / $290
Tanaka ECS-3401 T / power head 7.9 lbs / 34cc / $310

 

[copperdoc1]

Racketball saw. . . . thats just silly.

 

[radoutdoors]

climbed with a few saws. I have used the 200t and as everyone says , its a great saw in the tree and one day I will own one, just pricey. On the other hand, I will not ever own anther 192t, it is low on power,has a small tank and has plastic dawgs. In a tree all these factors add up to aggravation. If you are a climber than by all means get a top handle saw, I would go with the 435t, I have a 334t and its a screamer. If you DON'T CLIMB then DON'T buy a top handle saw! There are a lot little saws out there that are rear handle in that price range and much safer on the ground.

 

[Eastexan]

For top handle saws, this is as unbiased as I can get. The prices may be different where you live. There are probably some top handles that I missed, but this will give you a pretty good idea of what’s out there and the cost. They are listed in alphabetical order so I don’t offend anyone. For quality, you’ll have to do some research.

Dolmar 3410 T / power head / 7.1 / 34cc / $340
Echo CS-330 T / Power head 8.1 / 32.6cc / $240
Echo CS-360 T / power head 8.1 lbs / 36.3cc / $270
Efco Model 132S T/ power head 7.5 lbs / 30cc / $270
Husqvarna T 435 / power head 7.5 lbs / 35.2cc / $300
Jonsered CS 2139 T / power head 7.7 lbs / 39cc / $360
Redmax G2500TS / power head / 6.4 lbs / 25.4cc / $300
Redmax G3500T / power head 7.3 lbs / 35.23cc / $274
Solo 637 T / power head 8.1 lbs / 40.2cc / $340
Solo 633 T / power head 7.8 lbs / 36.3cc / $299
Stihl MS 192 T / power head 7.1 lbs / 30.1cc / $310
Stihl MS 200 T / power head 7.9 lbs / 35.2cc / $640
Tanaka ECS-3301 T / power head 7.3 lbs / 32CC / $290
Tanaka ECS-3401 T / power head / 7.9 lbs / 34cc / $310

Thanks for the selection list, Analyst Man!
It looks like if I decide on an Echo, I'll need to get it there.:bang:
The 330T and 360T are higher here, at $270 & $300.

The first saw I was considering was that little Dolmar, but here they want $375 for it.

But, the Stihl's are a little cheaper here.

I'm about to give up on the little Husky T435, though. It's a pro saw and the price is right, but seems like the one's that first tried them out and loved them, haven't posted back about their durability.

I've appreciated everyone's suggestions.
Ronnie

 

[SawTroll]

I'm about to give up on the little Husky T435, though. It's a pro saw and the price is right, but seems like the one's that first tried them out and loved them, haven't posted back about their durability.

I've appreciated everyone's suggestions.
Ronnie

Those aren't really pro saws, they are just listed as that to keep unexperiensed people away from top-handle saws.

They also are rebadged Redmaxes, not true Huskys.

The real pro top-handle Huskys are the NE338xpt, and the Jonsered 2139T (mostly the same saw).

Btw, Stihl list the 192 as a pro saw for the same reason, it isn't really.....

 

[Analyst Man]

climbed with a few saws. I have used the 200t and as everyone says , its a great saw in the tree and one day I will own one, just pricey. On the other hand, I will not ever own anther 192t, it is low on power,has a small tank and has plastic dawgs. In a tree all these factors add up to aggravation. If you are a climber than by all means get a top handle saw, I would go with the 435t, I have a 334t and its a screamer. If you DON'T CLIMB then DON'T buy a top handle saw! There are a lot little saws out there that are rear handle in that price range and much safer on the ground.

I'm not an arborist so I won't pretend to know as much about cutting trees. But I can express my personal experience with top handle chainsaws. My first was a McCulloch Power Mac 320. When I bought it I didn't know diddly about chainsaws so I didn't realize that I had purchased a top handle, I just liked how light and well balanced it felt. I used it for almost 30 years on the ground, and never had one problem or close call. I read the safety manual that came with the saw when I bought it and learned that sticking the tip of the saw in wood was a no-no, as well as pinching the bar in a limb. I liked that little 320 so much that when it finally died this past winter I replaced it with another top handle saw. I suppose that if you cut trees for a living there may be a tendency to work fast which may increase the possibility of a kickback, but personally I wouldn’t hesitate to use my top handle on the ground. For me it’s just a great little chainsaw for the smaller stuff, on the ground or in the tree.

Again, this is just my experience, there may be some statistics showing more injuries with top handle saws as compared to rear handle saws. The only thing I’m absolutely convinced of is that you definitely need to have some respect for a chainsaws whether it’s a top or rear handle.

Happy cutting all you chainsaw lovers.

 

[Eastexan]

If you DON'T CLIMB then DON'T buy a top handle saw! There are a lot little saws out there that are rear handle in that price range and much safer on the ground.

Thanks for the safety concerns, radoutdoors.
I grew up in an era of big cranky, awkward, and heavy saws that were all top handled with no safety features. So I'm very familiar with what they can do.
Back then, all we had to heat with, was wood. So we always had a big firewood cutting project every fall, besides cleaning up storm damage, etc.

Now that I'm retired I can take my time in cutting wood.
I'll mostly be limbing low hanging branches mostly from a ladder, and small stuff on the ground. I have an old Husky 51 for the bigger wood. I'm just wanting something small and light to go along with the bigger saw.

Also, thanks for the heads-up on the 192T.

Ronnie

 

[Andyshine77]

Ronnie I've ran most of the top, top handle saws on the market. The strongest and likely the best model is the 200t, but at $500.00 it's way over priced IMHO. I feel for the money, power and quality the Dolmar 3410 is the saw to get.

 

[Eastexan]

Those aren't really pro saws, they are just listed as that to keep unexperiensed people away from top-handle saws.

They also are rebadged Redmaxes, not true Huskys.

The real pro top-handle Huskys are the NE338xpt, and the Jonsered 2139T (mostly the same saw).

Btw, Stihl list the 192 as a pro saw for the same reason, it isn't really.....

Ok, that makes sense.
I was wondering why the rear handled version of the 192 is listed as occasional use instead of professional.

 

[Eastexan]

Ronnie I've ran most of the top, top handle saws on the market. The strongest and likely the best model is the 200t, but at $500.00 it's way over priced IMHO. I feel for the money, power and quality the Dolmar 3410 is the saw to get.

Andy, $500 is a good price for the 200T, although it's still out of my price range. Here they want $575.

I agree about the Dolmar 3410TH. But here, Dolmar has very little presence and don't carry their top handled saws in stock. Dolmar is just their second or third line. They would have to order it, and charge shipping, which puts it out of my reach.

 

[poulson01]

Thanks for the safety concerns, radoutdoors.
I grew up in an era of big cranky, awkward, and heavy saws that were all top handled with no safety features. So I'm very familiar with what they can do.
Back then, all we had to heat with, was wood. So we always had a big firewood cutting project every fall, besides cleaning up storm damage, etc.

Now that I'm retired I can take my time in cutting wood.
I'll mostly be limbing low hanging branches mostly from a ladder, and small stuff on the ground. I have an old Husky 51 for the bigger wood. I'm just wanting something small and light to go along with the bigger saw.

Also, thanks for the heads-up on the 192T.

Ronnie

I'm not trying to be a ball buster here but, are you sure you want a top handle?
Top handle saws today are balanced completely different then the old ones.
They're for climbing and one handed use.
You say you have arthritis? Me too. I can tell you that all the top handle saws I can think of have the cylinder pointing straight back at you and vibrate like hell. Also, the placement of the handles so close together give you no leverage. The rear handle saws are ergonomic and well balanced. The cylinders are on top so they don't vibrate as much. They fit in your hands much better. If all you ever used was old top handle Homies, Macs and Poulans...You go modern rear handle and you'll NEVER go back! You'll wonder what the heck they were thinking when they made those things.

I used a home owner MS180 for a few years and loved it. It was quiet, didn't vibrate and was light. I kept it in in my work truck for general purpose use. Not very powerful but better then a bow saw!