Needs Tips/Advice Grinding Stumps "Ground Level".

[StihlRockin']

I have a job to do soon where the owner wants some stumps ground down to ground level outside the parameter of his typical grass yard. Brush, etc, will be removed and the trees. He doesn't need/want the trees to have their stumps ground down to normal grinding depths... only enough to have a walk outside the grass area slightly in the woods and not trip over stubs and stumps.

Here's my situation: While I almost always grind down deeper, he has this special request. I'm trying to cut the stumps as low as I can to either have it acceptable "as is" after the lowest cut I can do or at least get it very low so there's less work for my machine. In this situation I use a wire brush or hatchet to remove the bark/moss nearest the ground to rid the sand and dirt so my chain can stay sharper longer while attempting the lowest cut I can do without touching the ground. There's too many stumps to go manually digging, etc, around each one.

What method or methods do you use when cutting stumps as low as you can? I don't have time to use a garden hose, as that was brought to my attention, so any tips you've successfully done yourself to accomplish a similar task would be most appreciated at this point.

Thanks.

StihlRockin'

 

[Creeker]

G'day stihlrockin,

Grinding to ground level is just fine as long as the ground stays the same height for the next few years. What seems to happen in reality is that ground level grinding eventually results in a crown of roots which is unsightly and a trip hazard. I get the odd request for "ground level will be OK" and never, ever do it that way.
Always like to go at least 4 to 6" below grade and do it properly, my rep. will be the one to suffer when the "ground level will be OK" stumps become unsatisfactory to the home owner and he has to get me (unlikely) or some other grinder in to remedy "my" shoddy work.

I think a lot might seem to forget our earlier advice to grind deeper and blame us for the now troublesome stumps/ root crown that has appeared.

As far as cutting off at ground level with a chainsaw and it not dulling the chain, it just doesn't happen here. Chipping off bark etc etc is probably going to take more time than grinding the stump properly in the first place.

If I know a job specification from a customer is not going to result in an outcome I'm happy with then I just won't do it. easy as that

 

[StihlRockin']

This client lives in the country and has a backyard with some grass which blends into the woods pretty much. He wants to extend his yard view as the tree and brush are thick. He looks out his window and sees nothing but leaves most of the time until the leaves drop. The area where I will be doing the stumps is "into the woods". He feels if he wants to walk out beyond his lawn area, that he doesn't want to trip on stubs and stumps.

It's a done deal and I'm very happy with the agreement. I told him I'll go even slightly deeper than ground level since I know the situations that can arrive with "ground level" grinding. Just wanted to hopefully get lucky and get a tip to maybe I can learn something to help with this situation since I never encountered a job where there will be this many stumps to be ground "ground level". LOL!

Thanks for y'alls views and your reply Creeker. I'm with yah on many of the points you mentioned.

SR

 

[TC262]

You might want to consider using a carbide chain.

 

[Zale]

Chainsaw and a file.

 

[StihlRockin']

LOL! Last time I used a carbide chain, it cost me a $100 and had it destroyed in less than 5 seconds when went to use it! Wasn't thinking at the time, but ruined 3 stihl chains in a row trying to cut off a stump that had a crevice in it about 5' high. I knew/thought I hit a "small" rock inside the stump and I would be through it by now. Then I went to get the new carbide chain and it was toast. Come later I found out people years ago use to pour concrete inside hollow trees in order to try and stabilize them. Mind you back then it was real concrete, the hard stuff, not this stuff today you can take a hammer to and pulverize it into dust. The concrete back in the old days was "rock" hard and it proved itself against those chains that day. Wasn't one of my finer days usin' the ol' noggin for sure.

Zale, I had enough practice using a file and am trying to avoid that as much as possible. LOL!

Really, the carbide chain is a good idea and am surprised after all these years I never got another one, but it would work good in this application.... void of any serious debris like rocks, metal and concrete!

SR'

 

[Erik Hakso]

You can only get so close with a chain saw without the risk of damage. I suggest doing it right and charging the customer accordingly.

Erik
www.pro-cuttreeservice.com

 

[MasterBlaster]

There is no such thing as cutting a stump to ground level, and I'll tell the customer so. I will cut them (ALAP) as low as possible, but beyond that they'll need to be ground out. The customer isn't always right.

 

[Treepedo]

throw on an old bar and chain,
You can use the chain backwards if you like, not sure if it works better
but it seems to.
You can pick away or feel into a sinus for rocks.
Recently used the saw like this to do root pruning and cut sod for
tree beds. Sucks using it when muddy.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/TZskz53PNB4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[StihlRockin']

You can only get so close with a chain saw without the risk of damage. I suggest doing it right and charging the customer accordingly.

I've been doing it my way for many years, so I guess to me that's right given this particular job and situation. And you can bet the farm I'm charging right or I wouldn't be in the business this long. Yeah, I eat an estimate every now and then, but that's only every other blue moon or so. I took 2 hours to look this job through talking and figuring making sure the client gets exactly what they want. Then of course I painted the picture in their mind of the value they will receive, etc.

There is no such thing as cutting a stump to ground level,...

That's a broad statement I'm sure some would disagree with, then that depends on your absolute definition of "ground level". Right now I'm the only one I know who does total lot clear jobs of smaller trees and brush using chainsaws. I know of no other tool if used correctly can cut right at ground level. I first did this in 1990 and did my biggest around 1995. In lot clears I tell my clients you will be able to take a mower to the area void of stubs when I'm done. A brush cutter works, then I hit the ground more than I'd like since the cutter head is out 5' in front of me, whereas a chainsaw bar is right there while I'm bent over making the cut. It's laborious but does a good job and when I try to have the grunts do it, eventually they get either lazy or lose concentration and start leaving stubs too high for my standards. Hence I prefer to do that part while there's a guy or two nearby pulling the trees and brush away. We're talking stuff that is from less than an 1" up to approx. 7" or more if it will work.

Keep in mind, this area is IN the woods beyond his yard and the client only wants it opened up for a better view and has no plans on having grass there. He seeks a broader area and that if he wants to take a stroll beyond the grass line, he doesn't want to be tripping over stubs.

Thanks for the feedback.

StihlRockin'

 

[sac-climber]

Crappy chain and bar, flush cut it. Have him take a look and ok it. We do this a lot on rural properties.

 

[juttree]

Go around it with a blower then cut it.

 

[StihlRockin']

Go around it with a blower then cut it.

LOL! That's what I mentioned to the client. By the way, sweet list of saws there.

================

Anyway, first chance I get, I'll get a pic or two so you guys know what I'm referring to. It's not thick at all. I told the client, which is usually something I don't do by the way, ... is that I can do some damage(ie, cut a lot) in 20 minutes.

Seriously though, I do appreciate y'alls advice, opinions and help. I don't know any better way to learn(except by hands on experience) but to ask other pros on their advice.

Good will and be safe gentleman.

SR'

 

[jefflovstrom]

Just common sense. Even tho I am not in the 'woods', a lot of people don't want to pay for a grind, even at ground level or an inch below.
Five minutes with a shovel at the base and a carbide chain, done!,,,MB is ignorant or stupid.
Jeff

 

[StihlRockin']

,,,MB is ignorant or stupid.
Jeff

Okaaay. I guess that's called a statement.

 

[Creeker]

In Aus. I tend to think the demand for specialised chains and chainsawing at ground level is fairly
minimal.

If I had much demand for this service it wouldn't take long to get geared up.

 

[StihlRockin']

I use to have a Stihl 046 set up to cut stumps lower prior to me grinding them out, then I just went back to my chisel or rapid cut chain. Didn't take long to resharpen on the spot if need be, but then it wasn't my intention to cut ground level... only to cut lower to save work and time for my machine.

The job pretty much is a cake walk. The sparsely grown brush and smaller trees are spread out 3' to 5' to 8' feet from each other and wouldn't take much to walk up to each, bend over and cut it... at ground level and then cutting the stumps as low as possible prior to grinding them down to ground level. Easy job really. Just some labor. The plus is I get some very good wood from it. I haul no brush and do no raking.

SR'

 

[Dillweed]

Go around it with a blower then cut it.

The blower is the tool to use. Often, you can get a stump almost flush with some preparation. You want to pull out all the grass blow out the dirt around the stump. Expose the root flares. I dig a pocket for my saw head and make one cut through the surface roots and stump. You want a bar long enough to reach end to end.

I used a stihl 660 with a 28" bar. The bar was a little short. I was able to cut through this in about five minutes. It may be hard to tell, but it's ground level.

 

[pdqdl]

What size brush are you talking about?

Anything less than 2" I try to mulch with a rotary mower. Set it low, pulverize everything. No stumps, but quite a few pulpy nubs will be left.

If you do lots of lot clearing, the Marshal Tree saw is hard to beat, and it definitely cuts everything off AT the ground level, not just close to it. Pretty pricey, but excellent production rate.

 

[Creeker]

The blower is the tool to use. Often, you can get a stump almost flush with some preparation. You want to pull out all the grass blow out the dirt around the stump. Expose the root flares. I dig a pocket for my saw head and make one cut through the surface roots and stump. You want a bar long enough to reach end to end.

I used a stihl 660 with a 28" bar. The bar was a little short. I was able to cut through this in about five minutes. It may be hard to tell, but it's ground level.

Good job getting it so low, wondering how much you would charge to cut that ?