new 20t
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NevadaWalrus
ArboristSite Operative
The regulars around here know I'm not a proponent of mods but at least allow the time to run a few gallons of fuel through the saw first to let the rings seat in and achieve full power. This could arguably be the most powerful top handle saw currently available and once its broken in you may decide it needs no additional help.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Silverblue has a couple of modded 200's. I sure would like to try em out. Like NW said, they have PLENTY of power already - I can't imagine them being MORE powerfull, but it WOULD be nice!
The 200T is mighty fast in stock form, especially if you take the screen and screw out.....I'm not sure if more power is needed.
The 2000 model year 335 that Rich sent me is another rare high power beast. with dual port muffler and otherwise stock, and even with safety chain, it is the fastest of my 4 little Husky's....it reminds me of the old one I had that also had rare power. In fact, it is almost too fast, hard to believe this saw junkie said that...and with safety chain currently on it, no less.
The 2000 model year 335 that Rich sent me is another rare high power beast. with dual port muffler and otherwise stock, and even with safety chain, it is the fastest of my 4 little Husky's....it reminds me of the old one I had that also had rare power. In fact, it is almost too fast, hard to believe this saw junkie said that...and with safety chain currently on it, no less.
Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
If a saw junkie can say its almost too fast then I'm sure its no slow poke for a saw, BUT does it start reliably? Also, I've been reading posts that from the best of my reading said that the newer MS200s have an issue with the carbs or has that been resoleved now? In any event, when a saw puts out 2.2 or whatever amount of HP they do have stock, WHY would you want more from it? I know that a top handle saw with 3-4HP would be kicka$$ but it would also become rather heavy after a while too would it not? I cant see anything wrong with a modded muffler and maybe some Amsoil or MX2T full synthetic oil mix fuel in it, but much more than that and I'm outta here.
"The 200T is mighty fast in stock form, especially if you take the screen and screw out.....I'm not sure if more power is needed."
I agree. In my half@ssed opinion, Stihl has given pro operators a "gimme" with the design of the 200T exhaust port once the baffle & screen are removed. Mine run great. Good, solid power from a little saw in a big EPA world.
Run it before you mess with it, Aussie. You might be satisfied.
I agree. In my half@ssed opinion, Stihl has given pro operators a "gimme" with the design of the 200T exhaust port once the baffle & screen are removed. Mine run great. Good, solid power from a little saw in a big EPA world.
Run it before you mess with it, Aussie. You might be satisfied.
Just because I gotta see what the saw is capable of, I probably will have the 45 cc 335 California modified. If the builder can do enough porting, and maybe carb work, it could oucut a stock 026/346 Husky. Not bad for a 7.5 lb saw.
The fast old 335 starts and runs well, but likely will not do so for long enough..that's just the nature of these frustrating 335's.
Who knows about the 200T carbs, they've made at least 5 changes to them over the years, I've heard. I see and hear far more good reports than bad with the Stihl.
The fast old 335 starts and runs well, but likely will not do so for long enough..that's just the nature of these frustrating 335's.
Who knows about the 200T carbs, they've made at least 5 changes to them over the years, I've heard. I see and hear far more good reports than bad with the Stihl.
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Lumberjack
Banned
I bought a 200 right before christmas (December 17 i think). Anywho that day I did 5 ceder trees with it, and was impressed with its power.
That night I took it home and opened the muffler. I made a rectangular hole that goes all the way across the area where the screen went.I retuned it, and I have been using it ever sense. For saw that light it flat out rocks!!
Also inside I smoothed up a channel so that the flow would be directed at the new hole. This involved takin the fingers out, and other little things. On the screws that hold the 2 halves together, I broke all 4, and just reassembled with the 2 bolts that hold it to the exhaust port, and have had no problem.
Here is a pic.
I run a 14" bar on it, and it will out cut my groundy's personal 141.
I was workin over at his new house this weekend, and I grabbed his saw to make the notch cleaner (he had made a dutchman). I stuck it in the wood , but quickly stopped. I let it idle and I felt to see if the chain was sharp. It was, and that saw has NO BALLS.
Even with a rocked out chain (hit some barbwire and touched it up with a file, no grinding on it yet) that was sharped as best I could, I was out limbin him right and left.
ANY SAW I BUY, THE FIRST THING I AM GONNA DO IS FIX THE MUFFLER AND RETUNE, it adds too much to not.
However with a opened muff, that thing is LOUD!
That night I took it home and opened the muffler. I made a rectangular hole that goes all the way across the area where the screen went.I retuned it, and I have been using it ever sense. For saw that light it flat out rocks!!
Also inside I smoothed up a channel so that the flow would be directed at the new hole. This involved takin the fingers out, and other little things. On the screws that hold the 2 halves together, I broke all 4, and just reassembled with the 2 bolts that hold it to the exhaust port, and have had no problem.
Here is a pic.
I run a 14" bar on it, and it will out cut my groundy's personal 141.
I was workin over at his new house this weekend, and I grabbed his saw to make the notch cleaner (he had made a dutchman). I stuck it in the wood , but quickly stopped. I let it idle and I felt to see if the chain was sharp. It was, and that saw has NO BALLS.
Even with a rocked out chain (hit some barbwire and touched it up with a file, no grinding on it yet) that was sharped as best I could, I was out limbin him right and left.
ANY SAW I BUY, THE FIRST THING I AM GONNA DO IS FIX THE MUFFLER AND RETUNE, it adds too much to not.
However with a opened muff, that thing is LOUD!
Lumberjack
Banned
Mine starts fine. One pull full choke, and another on half, and she comes to life.
Like I said I got mine at the end of last year, and have had no problems with it.
Adding hp to the saw doesnt add weight. If I could get that saw to reliably produce 3-4 hp, I would do it in a heart beat. (Anyone got any tips?). The gas tank empties quickly as it is now, but I can still cut more per tankfull than I could stock.
SilverBlue
Addicted to ArboristSite
If anything do work on the muffler it will reduce the heat buildup and improve the life of your saw.The only drawback I find with the 200T apart from the muffler is the need to burp the oil tank when filling it:angry2:
Lumberjack
Banned
Yes.
It lets out alot of heat get out of the motor. During breakin there is increased heat from the added friction of the parts seating.
I bought mine, did 5 ceders, and then went home and went to work.
Just make sure that you retune so as to not make it too lean.
Several say to use a small screw driver to remove the limiting cap, but I went in from the side and just took out the roll pin that the limiting cap hits. It was easy, took about 10 seconds, and I had the needle nose vise grips handy.
It lets out alot of heat get out of the motor. During breakin there is increased heat from the added friction of the parts seating.
I bought mine, did 5 ceders, and then went home and went to work.
Just make sure that you retune so as to not make it too lean.
Several say to use a small screw driver to remove the limiting cap, but I went in from the side and just took out the roll pin that the limiting cap hits. It was easy, took about 10 seconds, and I had the needle nose vise grips handy.
