New 359 dull and smoking chain within first few cuts??

[jcw74801]

Hello all,

From researching the great discussions found on this site I chose a 20" 359 for my firewood saw. It arrived yesterday and I assembled it this morning and took her for a spin. Wow, this saw is just a wee bit different than the $99 Poulan that I quickly came to realize was not going to be up to the task of supplying me with enough wood to heat my home.

Most of the wood I will be harvesting will be dead trees, many of which will already be on the ground. I am in central Oklahoma and most of the trees will be blackjack and other oaks.

My new 359 came with three Oregon 72LGX072G chains. While using the saw for the first time this morning the chain became dull and stopped cutting after only a few cuts. I am hoping you folks can help me understand what I did wrong so I can prevent it from happening again.

After initial startup I took the saw to the firewood pile and cut several discs from some 6-8" logs. Nice long chips flying out and cutting like butter. Now, I have never operated a saw of this caliber and I was giggling like a school girl. This is awesome.

Next, and this might be what dulled the chain, I cut a 16" x 16" log down the middle. Not cutting in half but splitting down the middle "against the grain", so to speak. Just to see how the saw would handle it. The saw handled it fine. It didn't make chips though. It made sawdust.

Anyway, I cut a few more discs from some smaller logs with ease. Then I took the saw to a neighbor's who has a 12" dead hollow tree that has been on the ground for a few weeks. Also, since this is a new chain, I kept and eye on the tension and tightened it several times.

Right away I noticed that the chain was not easily cutting through the tough bark on the old dead oak. But once it got through the bark it cut the wood pretty well. I cut 3/4 through and the chain/bar never got near the soil. After a few more cuts the chain stopped cutting and started smoking.

I got out the Poulan, which is relegated to limbing duties, and finished up the whole tree with it. It has a new chain and, well, it cut great. It was horrible leaving the new 359 sitting on the tailgate while I used the Poulan.

So next I will try my hand at sharpening the chain that I so quickly dulled. I have two more new chains but I had better figure out what I am doing wrong before I use them.

Can you overheat a chain and ruin it's hardness? When I realized the wood was smoking the chain was pretty hot.

Is there a type or brand of chain for my type of harvesting (dead, dirty, felled trees) that would be better than what came with my saw?

I am fairly new at this but I will be cutting enough wood to heat my home so I really need to learn the correct way to harvest wood and maximize the capabilities of this great saw that I bought.

Any tips, ideas, or comments would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
John W

Bethel, Oklahoma

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

For the chain to dull as quickly as you describe, I think you might have struck an object with it. Maybe a rock, nail, etc etc that would very quickly smash the sharp edge off your chain.

For constant use in dirty wood, check into semi-chisel chain. It will handle the abrasives better. But if you still hit debris thats embedded in the wood or bark, expect the same results.

 

[mattinky]

For the chain to dull as quickly as you describe, I think you might have struck an object with it. Maybe a rock, nail, etc etc that would very quickly smash the sharp edge off your chain.

For constant use in dirty wood, check into semi-chisel chain. It will handle the abrasives better. But if you still hit debris thats embedded in the wood or bark, expect the same results.

I have to agree with Warrior, you must have hit something. It only takes a split second to dull a chain on a rock, nail or an old piece of fence wire............ Matt

 

[Gologit]

It sounds like you hit the ground or a piece of metal or something. You can get a chain into the ground easily and it just takes a second for dirt, rocks etc, to dull the chain. If your bar is smoking stop cutting immediately and find the cause. If your chain is dull resharpen or change chains...never never never continue cutting with a dull chain. Make sure your saw is oiling correctly...there should be a light film of oil on the drive links.
Learning to sharpen correctly is key. Theres a wealth of information here...use the search function and you'll find everything you need.
Let us know what you find out and how you did.

 

[jcw74801]

Well that makes sense. I hadn't thought of the possibility of hitting something with the chain. I'll examine the dull chain and begin learning to hand sharpen. Meanwhile, I'll install a new chain and go hunting wood. That new saw is looking way too clean

thanks for your replies,
John

 

[THALL10326]

Hello all,

From researching the great discussions found on this site I chose a 20" 359 for my firewood saw. It arrived yesterday and I assembled it this morning and took her for a spin. Wow, this saw is just a wee bit different than the $99 Poulan that I quickly came to realize was not going to be up to the task of supplying me with enough wood to heat my home.

Most of the wood I will be harvesting will be dead trees, many of which will already be on the ground. I am in central Oklahoma and most of the trees will be blackjack and other oaks.

My new 359 came with three Oregon 72LGX072G chains. While using the saw for the first time this morning the chain became dull and stopped cutting after only a few cuts. I am hoping you folks can help me understand what I did wrong so I can prevent it from happening again.

After initial startup I took the saw to the firewood pile and cut several discs from some 6-8" logs. Nice long chips flying out and cutting like butter. Now, I have never operated a saw of this caliber and I was giggling like a school girl. This is awesome.

Next, and this might be what dulled the chain, I cut a 16" x 16" log down the middle. Not cutting in half but splitting down the middle "against the grain", so to speak. Just to see how the saw would handle it. The saw handled it fine. It didn't make chips though. It made sawdust.

Anyway, I cut a few more discs from some smaller logs with ease. Then I took the saw to a neighbor's who has a 12" dead hollow tree that has been on the ground for a few weeks. Also, since this is a new chain, I kept and eye on the tension and tightened it several times.

Right away I noticed that the chain was not easily cutting through the tough bark on the old dead oak. But once it got through the bark it cut the wood pretty well. I cut 3/4 through and the chain/bar never got near the soil. After a few more cuts the chain stopped cutting and started smoking.

I got out the Poulan, which is relegated to limbing duties, and finished up the whole tree with it. It has a new chain and, well, it cut great. It was horrible leaving the new 359 sitting on the tailgate while I used the Poulan.

So next I will try my hand at sharpening the chain that I so quickly dulled. I have two more new chains but I had better figure out what I am doing wrong before I use them.

Can you overheat a chain and ruin it's hardness? When I realized the wood was smoking the chain was pretty hot.

Is there a type or brand of chain for my type of harvesting (dead, dirty, felled trees) that would be better than what came with my saw?

I am fairly new at this but I will be cutting enough wood to heat my home so I really need to learn the correct way to harvest wood and maximize the capabilities of this great saw that I bought.

Any tips, ideas, or comments would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
John W

Bethel, Oklahoma

Rule of thumb to remember. Your chain should never smoke and if it does something is wrong, cut the saw off. Saws of today run at very high RPM's and if your chain is cutting it pulls those high RPM's down to a safe level while your cutting by putting the engine to work, per say under a load. If your chain is smoking and not cutting your engine is right back up to those high RPM's for its not pulling wood chips out under a load. Repeatedly running a saw with a dull chain that won't cut and smokes in the wood will sooner or later fry your engine from excessive and constant high RPM's.

How you dulled your chain is not nearly as important as knowing its dull. If you know its dull how it happened doesn't matter other than to avoid doing it again. Keep those dull chains in the box untill you get them sharpened and use only sharp chains on the saw. That saw and you will be much happier with a sharp chain at all times.

 

[West Texas]

Three points to consider. First: Downed dead trees are full of small stones, etc, that squirrels, birds, other animals have hauled into its many holes, etc. and stored along with whatever. Its the norm. I cut this type of wood all the time for firewood. Second Don't over tighten the chain, as there needs to be some slack in the chain for the tooth to rotate up off the bar and cut the wood. Third When you set up a new saw, chain and bar, be sure its oiling properly, point the end of the bar near an object, hit the throttle, and a visible line of oil should appear on that object if the saw is oiling properly; if not, adjust the oiler for more oil. The bar and chain should not be smoking, if the chain is not overly tightened and the oil is flowing properly. The 72LG chain is an excellent chain, its a very popular chain for the pro's.

Lastly, downed trees with heavy bark are loaded with blown sand and dirt, they eat up chains pretty quickly even if the saw, bar and chain are set perfectly. Just carry a file with you or take extra chains to put on the saw every time you refuel. Its no big deal and gives you something to do during your rest break. Good luck with your new saw, its a good one.

 

[Lou]

One thing I think may have been overlooked. Check the oiler, it can be set between 1 & 3 CLICKS. Probably still at factory setting of 1 which is incorrect for 20" bar. Ditto on the foreign object strike.

I also recommend you replace the Cat muffler and green fuel cap. That muffler runs HOT, summers in your state with that muffler my effect its longevity.

 

[Steve128]

One thing I think may have been overlooked. Check the oiler, it can be set between 1 & 3 CLICKS. Probably still at factory setting of 1 which is incorrect for 20" bar. Ditto on the foreign object strike.

I also recommend you replace the Cat muffler and green fuel cap. That muffler runs HOT, summers in your state with that muffler my effect its longevity.

+1

And good choice in saws! Hope it serves you well

 

[sawinredneck]

Well, I have anothe take on this story. Not exactly sure what part of OK you are in, but it's mainly sandy soil down ther from what I have seen. And as I do a lot of cutting in Easter KS, same type of soil, when you go cutting off a tree low, that sandy soil will eat up a chain in a heartbeat!! I would usually cut off the trees 12-18" high, chop them up, then come back and stump them before leaving, as stumping is the hardest on the chains. Gets you a good day of cuting on one chain.
I Imagine there is a lot of sandstone etc. there, and the minerals have grown up in the stump, you cut it off low to start with, and that is what killed the chain.
But as others have said, when you have to push harder, and you are not making the chips you where, it's time to stop and get another chain on the saw!! That will burn up a saw nearly as fast as running straight gas!

 

[jcw74801]

You are correct, sawinredneck, our soil is very sandy. These downed trees can be coated with sand after a rain. Also, many of these dead trees are hollow and there is all kinds of rotten crap inside the logs. Can't be good on a chain.

I was, however, able to buck the entire tree with another saw and only one chain. So, even though the tree was a little sandy, something else must have caused the new chain on the new saw to go completely dull. It may have happened with the practice session in the firewood pile.

 

[sawinredneck]

I am still betting cutting off that tree did it. People under estimate how hard on saws and chains it is to stump cut. More dirt, more minerals, more crap, at the base of a tree than anywhere else!! I cannot say you didn't hit something, but without being there, as I got you're story, it cut fine partway into the tree stump, then didn't, right? That tells me you hit a rock/steel/whatever, or the sand wore the chain down. And I know first hand what that sand can do to a chain!! Don't underestimate it!!

 

[Urbicide]

Hi John. I also have a 359 and have had chain issues. I am cleaning up 20 acres of woods. There is a heck of a difference between a green tree and one that has been dead for some time. I have removed dead honey and black locust trees and a bunch of dead elms and have more to go. I had been going through chains like crazy. I am using Bailey's WoodsmanPro 30SC chain which is a semi chisel chain. Round chisel cuts faster but does not tolerate abrasive conditions at all. The 30SC has become my favorite. It holds it edge longer than round chisel chain. Here is a link to the semi chisel chain. It is sold by the drive link. You will need 72 links for your bar. (It is also on sale until June 1.)

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/873?mv_session_id=UDPkiXBw&product_sku=WP375 30SC

I use the Granberg File & Joint file guide. I can't free-hand file worth a hoot and the Granberg lets me put a razor sharp edge on my chains.

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/31?mv_session_id=UDPkiXBw&product_sku=15200

You will want to replace the catalytic muffler with the non-cat model. The catalyst retains a tremendous amount of heat and is very restrictive. Have you started to melt the air filter cover edge right above the muffler yet? The 359 responds very well to muffler mods. Buy a non-cat muffler and have it modded or do it yourself. Save the cat muffler to reinstall in case you need warranty service.

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/5905?mv_session_id=UDPkiXBw&product_sku=503 91 75-03

Here is a link to Husqvarna's Workshop Manual for the 357XP / 359 for you.

http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HWEN/HWEN2000/HWEN2000_1019117-26.pdf

:chainsawguy:

 

[Dadatwins]

Next, and this might be what dulled the chain, I cut a 16" x 16" log down the middle. Not cutting in half but splitting down the middle "against the grain", so to speak. Just to see how the saw would handle it. The saw handled it fine. It didn't make chips though. It made sawdust.

Whenever possible and you have to make a 'rip cut' it is always better to cut down the bark side than straight across the flat. Cutting on the flat very hard on the saw and chain. Cutting the bark side will give off ribbons, the flat will produce sawdust. Also if you will be cutting mostly dead wood make sure your oiler if adjustable is turned all the way up. Good luck with your new saw.

 

[stihl 440]

hit something

I still think you hit something, wheather it be a nail, staple, etc....I've even hit bullets. That makes any chain stop in a cut in split second. This sort of reminds me of my buddies story... He was cutting a red maple with his 066 and while comming through the backcut it went from making inch long chips to sawdust, he goes WTF, and pulls the saw out and all the TEETH are GONE(mind you this was a brand new RS chain) it just ripped them off. So he put on his brand new second chain and puts it back in the cut and starts cutting, about a second later the same thing, all the teeth gone. So he said F:censored: it and got the tractor with front loader(he has a farm) and pushed it over and found a 2in dia digging iron in the center of the tree. Somebody a long time ago must have put it in the hollow part of the trunk. Just goes to show you, don't know what you'll find in a tree. :greenchainsaw: :hmm3grin2orange: :biggrinbounce2:

 

[blis]

I'd bet on not oiling enough and burning the chain and most likely hitting something on the way...