New ALASKAN SMALL LOG MILL, Seized up Jonsered

[BobL]

There are a few different types available, i use one designed for model areoplanes like this one, it works a treat and very cheap and reliable.
I just point it at the flywheel where I've made a white paint spot on oposing sides and it reads the two spots just like a propeller on a plane engine.
On some saws it'll work straight through the pull cover, on others the cover will need to be removed.

I have a photo tacho like yours I gave up using it because I like to have one hand on the trigger and one hand holding a screwdriver to turn the H screw, and I don't have a third hand to hold the tacho or aim the tacho at a spot on the flywheel. This is where a bracket to hold an impulse tacho onto the saw (eg the wrap handle) works well.

This works particularly well on a milling saw. I suppose a similar bracket could be set up for a photo tacho but it wouldn't work too well on a mill as it would be constantly smothered with sawdust.

 

[YarraValleyDude]

I have a photo tacho like yours I gave up using it because I like to have one hand on the trigger and one hand holding a screwdriver to turn the H screw, and I don't have a third hand to hold the tacho or aim the tacho at a spot on the flywheel. This is where a bracket to hold an impulse tacho onto the saw (eg the wrap handle) works well.

This works particularly well on a milling saw. I suppose a similar bracket could be set up for a photo tacho but it wouldn't work too well on a mill as it would be constantly smothered with sawdust.

Bob, i just use it for initial tuning, if i need a third hand the kids are only to willing to help or the missus if I'm lucky.

 

[mtngun]

I like it-with the vibration chainsaws have this would probably be the longest lived option as far as the hardware is concerned-would be good for tuning.

As long as you don't mind taking the starter cover off (then how do you start it ?) or cut an aiming hole in the starter cover. Then there's that 3rd hand thing.

My Fast Tach got sent back for repairs. It was only a few months old, so hopefully it'll be covered by warranty. Still a disappointment, though, considering the $85 price.

When my Fast Tach died, I had it taped to the saw so I could tune the carb with one hand and hold the saw with the other hand (no 3rd hand here).

In the future, I'd like to make a Fast Tach holder inspired by BillSteuwe's temperature gage holder, the one that uses a broom clamp to attach to the handlebar. I'll try to incorporate some rubber or foam padding to reduce vibration.

Anyway, with a broom clamp holder, it would only take a second to snap onto the handlebar, and then I'd have both hands free for saw tuning.

 

[BobL]

Bob, i just use it for initial tuning, if i need a third hand the kids are only to willing to help or the missus if I'm lucky.

You got got good kids and missus if they are willing to do that. I can't even really tune mine at home (inner city neighborhood and all that) so I have to wait till I get on site and then I am usually on my own.

 

[YarraValleyDude]

You got got good kids and missus if they are willing to do that. I can't even really tune mine at home (inner city neighborhood and all that) so I have to wait till I get on site and then I am usually on my own.

Cheers Bob, yeah there handy now and then.
Don't let the innercity stop you tuning that saw, there are usually tree crews working all over the place around town and what could be nicer than listening to a 3120 barking its nuts off......lol

 

[TraditionalTool]

Chain looks decent, I don't think the chain was the root cause. Either the saw wasn't getting enough fuel, or else it had an air leak.

Sound to me like it was getting plenty of fuel, but not enough OIL...

Might be a bad mix of fuel. IOW, David, I would say you horked it up if that is the case. How many tanks of fuel did you use? Or did you cut those 6 pieces on one tank?

 

[dlabrie]

There are a few different types available, i use one designed for model areoplanes like this one, it works a treat and very cheap and reliable.
I just point it at the flywheel where I've made a white paint spot on oposing sides and it reads the two spots just like a propeller on a plane engine.
On some saws it'll work straight through the pull cover, on others the cover will need to be removed.

I scratch build RC airplanes and have been wanting to buy one of them for some time now. When in stock, they have them here http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5609 for $15. I'll get one with my next order.

 

[dlabrie]

Sound to me like it was getting plenty of fuel, but not enough OIL...

Might be a bad mix of fuel. IOW, David, I would say you horked it up if that is the case. How many tanks of fuel did you use? Or did you cut those 6 pieces on one tank?

I had just filled the saw one board prior to its meltdown. I will definitely use a fresh gas mix when I get the saw back. I have seen mixes suggested from 30:1 to 50:1. I still have to figure that out. on top of that, I let it run out of fuel while cutting. It was very hot so I let it sit before I refilled it. I guess I did about everything wrong:bang:

 

[smokinj]

I had just filled the saw one board prior to its meltdown. I will definitely use a fresh gas mix when I get the saw back. I have seen mixes suggested from 30:1 to 50:1. I still have to figure that out. on top of that, I let it run out of fuel while cutting. It was very hot so I let it sit before I refilled it. I guess I did about everything wrong:bang:

Alots of food for thought but a 8 in. pine on a 65cc saw should have no issues. even at 50:1

 

[BobL]

I had just filled the saw one board prior to its meltdown. I will definitely use a fresh gas mix when I get the saw back. I have seen mixes suggested from 30:1 to 50:1. I still have to figure that out. on top of that, I let it run out of fuel while cutting. It was very hot so I let it sit before I refilled it. I guess I did about everything wrong:bang:

if the CS tuning is already on the lean side, repeatedly running the saw out of fuels can be enough to damage it. Leaving it sit before waiting to refuel is not a good thing. It would be better for the CS to quickly add just a little mix and restart the saw so that it cools itself down with its fan.

 

[DRB]

Alots of food for thought but a 8 in. pine on a 65cc saw should have no issues. even at 50:1

+1

I have worn out a couple ripping chains on my 365 with a 28" bar 50:1 cuts up to 22" wide and it still runs strong. I don't think I have even ever tuned the carb. in the 5 or so years I have owned it.

 

[dlabrie]

Meanwhile... I am in the process of remodeling a bathroom and the carpenter who is working for me said he had 8 chainsaws! He said that over the years when people couldn't pay he would take stuff in trade. Once this job is done, I'll take a look at what he wants to sell and check back here for advice as to which would be the best for a dedicated mill.

The carpenter brought over a practically new HUSQVARNA 455 Rancher with an 18"bar. He wants $325 for it. Would this be a good mill saw for the price?

 

[smokinj]

The carpenter brought over a practically new HUSQVARNA 455 Rancher with an 18"bar. He wants $325 for it. Would this be a good mill saw for the price?

A rancher not going to hold up very long if milling. I would think 65cc and up and 65cc would need to be small softwood. 80cc and up would be idea.(just depends what your milling.

 

[BobL]

The carpenter brought over a practically new HUSQVARNA 455 Rancher with an 18"bar. He wants $325 for it. Would this be a good mill saw for the price?

US RRP is $415 and I will be surprised if you cannot get it for less than $400 with a warranty. You have to weigh up if the $75 saving is worth more than a warranty.

As for it being a good milling saw, I would say it is a little on the small side.

 

[jczv]

The carpenter brought over a practically new HUSQVARNA 455 Rancher with an 18"bar. He wants $325 for it. Would this be a good mill saw for the price?

I bought a 394xp off this site for a little over $400 and I've seen one a month ago advertised in the trading post for $350. Both were 'freshened up' well used saws but mine has handled everything I've thrown at it (firewood cutting of 32" oak rounds and milling with a 42" bar). They aren't the perfect milling saw (outboard clutch) but they seem to me like a decent way to get into milling.

 

[dlabrie]

Well, I bought the 455 Rancher for $300 just to have for cutting firewood.

The Jonsered is toast. The crank is seized and the piston is shot. The shop wanted $422 to fix it! I took it to the school where I work and gave it to the small engines repair class. They are going to have a go at it. I will have to buy the parts.

I was wondering- would it would be worth buying one of those 52mm big bore kits to put on instead of just replacing the 48mm piston? If so, are there any other things to consider?

David

 

[BobL]

I was wondering- would it would be worth buying one of those 52mm big bore kits to put on instead of just replacing the 48mm piston? If so, are there any other things to consider?

Not to mill with it wouldn't - the rest of the saw is just not up to it.

 

[jimdad07]

I've been running a Dolmar 6400 with a 28" bar for milling (I have the mill set for a max cut of 20" right now with this saw), and it has not flinched while cutting 18" red oak, maple or poplar. After reading this thread, I might just go buy a bigger bar for my 045av that only cost me $40.00 and put that one on the mill, it's a heck of a lot bigger than my 6400. Glad this was posted.