New bar and chain prep

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

alderman

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jun 4, 2005
Messages
3,815
Reaction score
2,015
Location
Western Oregon
Is there any special preparation needed before using a new bar and chain?
I know about replacing the sprocket but was wondering if the bar has to be pre lubed before using.

Thanks:
 
No, put 'er together and let 'er rip. Make sure the oil hole on the bar isn't full of paint first, the chain will get lose after a bit, tighten 'er up.
 
i allways spray the bar groove with WD-40 on both sides before the initial run, or after it has been sitting a while. i figure it may not do much, but it helps a bit till the oil pump starts doing its job.
 
I put the chain on loosely and max the oiler, then run the saw with half throttle with the bar in the air until I see that it's full of oil ,,

/Kristoffer
 
I slop some bar oil on the bar just before starting, let it dibble around, then just start it up. Stops the sparks that fly from a new bar/chain when dry...
 
These other folks all have some good ideas. I recently purchased a higher–end [read: pricier model of the Stihl line than I usually buy] Stihl bar and used an "old fashioned" oil can to run some 30 W. all thru the groove. Just to give it a starting–out boost. I doubt it matters which method you use. Might not even matter if you do nothing. However, it costs virtually nothing to pre–lube it. One fellow I know soaks his new chains in a shallow pan of motor oil. Personally, I find that to be pretty messy [he hangs them up over the pan afterward and lets them drip a while. Still....]
 
WD 40 in the bar groove and on the chain help my conscience, if nothing else.

In addition, when I plan on using a new chain the next day, I put in bar oil over-night (like Oregon suggests in their Manual).
 
new bar

Don't forget to grease the sprocket nose if it has the grease holes at the end of the bar.
Ed:greenchainsaw:
 
I use an old-fashioned oil can with Tranny fluid in it. I started using trans fluid because 1/2 of a bottle was handy. Now I continue to use it because its easy to see the bright red. I figure if it will protect a transmission then its
good enought for anything that I want to squirt.
 
314epw said:
Don't forget to grease the sprocket nose if it has the grease holes at the end of the bar.
It is highly debatable if greasing the nose sprocket does any good.
I do it myself, but a lot of people reports good results from not doing it.
 
in sandy dirty conditions, greasing the tip can aid in trapping that sand/dirt. most of my cutting is in logs skidded through sandy soil and as a result when i greased tips i took a couple out. now that i no longer grease tips, they last much longer. if you wanted to lube the tip get a mini grease gun and use 90wt gear oil or 50wt motor oil.. something thinner than grease.
 
I spray the groove with INOX .... do you guys have that product there?

Also, I am an anti greaser of sprockets on bars, I INOX that too, I spray it in the oil hole whilst spinning it.

Have you noticed a lot of new bars dont have the grease hole anymore? Or only on one side???
 
I done did it!

I put a bit of oil on the bar, lubed the tip with Oregon grease and let her rip. No problems so far. This bar only has a hole on one side, but the packaging on the bar recommended greasing the tip so I went that route. Thanks for the advice.
 
I use old-fashioned pipe cleaners loaded with bar oil after cleaning out the groove and specially with a new bar. 'Cause my saw is a weak oiler, this gives it a head-start. Just run them pipecleaners through the groove until it's dripping...
 
I usually spray the chain with motorcycle chain lube and roll it over a couple of times. It gives it a great head start.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top