New bar and Chain

[ValleyO'Giants]

Just got my new bar and chain today for the MS 310.
Have not tried it yet. Went from a 20" to a 24/25"

The chain I got is the 33rsc. full comp full chisel non low kickback tie strap.
Is that right?

The new bar and chain have the yellow paint on them and the 20" has the green.

I think the chain on the 20" is the 33rm2 which is a full comp semi chisel with the low kickback tie straps. Is that also correct?

Two questions.

1. Is there going to be a noticeable difference in the saw wanting to kickback with the change in chain type?

2. What is the value of a once used 20" "Farm Boss" bar with a likewise new stihl chain?

If I like the saw with the new bar and chain I may try to sell the first set up.

I don't know why I didnt buy the 24" set up in the first place. Just thought the 24" might be a little much for the 310, but everyone I have talked to says that it will work fine here in the PNW.
I may eventually go with a skip tooth version of the 24"

Any comments welcome, other that the obvious "You should have gotten the 361" I already know that! The 361 will have to wait...for now.
Thanks,
Doug

 

[Big Neb]

I spin a 24"/25" 33rsc on my 361 without any problems at all. I also have a couple of the green versions and really can't tell a bit of difference as far as the kickback. I think it only effects the chain at the tip. If both the green and yellow chains are sharp they cut equally fast.

If you were doing a lot more bore cutting you may notice the anti-kickback function of the green chain. I personally wouldn't buy the green again but really have no complaints with its function.

As far as cutting speed the rsc chain will no doubt smoke your old rm chain granted the 310 will pull it. Sharp it really moves.

I have no experience with the 310 so I can't tell you how well it will work..... You should have bought a 361... Just kiddin' Enjoy the 310 and you'll have a nice b/c when you upgrade to the 361!

As far as value of the 20" b/c... I think it is more valuable in your arsenal. Keep it as a spare.

 

[GASoline71]

Even I prolly wouldn't run a 25" bar on a 310... you'll notice it will prolly struggle way more than it did with the 20" on it.

I too have a 25" on my 361... no sweat.

Gary

 

[ValleyO'Giants]

Even I prolly wouldn't run a 25" bar on a 310...

Hmm, the saw shops round here usually pair the 310 up with the 24"/25" bar and chain.

you'll notice it will prolly struggle way more than it did with the 20" on it.

As far as stuggling with a 20" it does not struggle. For under 400 bucks it cuts like butter throught fir and alder. That is pretty much all I cut.
I'ts just my firewood saw.

I too have a 25" on my 361... no sweat.

Would that extra 0.4 horsepower really make that much of a diff? I would think a sharp chain would be more significant. Don't get me wrong I would love to have a 361 because it is a pro saw and has better anti vibe/chassis and weighs a little less (0.7lbs), better quality etc.

That is why I was thinking a sharp ass skip tooth chain would be the best setup for what I have now. That is my main question right now... anyone?

I will probably get to try the current set up either tomorrow or monday and will report back on my observation with the longer bar/chain

As I have said before, I would love to have a 361 and a 440 and call it good, but for now my 310 is doing just fine. And my wife does not cut the firewood around my house so there is noone to complain about how heavy my saw is!:jawdrop:

 

[chowdozer]

Hmm, the saw shops round here usually pair the 310 up with the 24"/25" bar and chain.



As far as stuggling with a 20" it does not struggle. For under 400 bucks it cuts like butter throught fir and alder. That is pretty much all I cut.
I'ts just my firewood saw.



Would that extra 0.4 horsepower really make that much of a diff? I would think a sharp chain would be more significant. Don't get me wrong I would love to have a 361 because it is a pro saw and has better anti vibe/chassis and weighs a little less (0.7lbs), better quality etc.

That is why I was thinking a sharp ass skip tooth chain would be the best setup for what I have now. That is my main question right now... anyone?

I will probably get to try the current set up either tomorrow or monday and will report back on my observation with the longer bar/chain

As I have said before, I would love to have a 361 and a 440 and call it good, but for now my 310 is doing just fine. And my wife does not cut the firewood around my house so there is noone to complain about how heavy my saw is!:jawdrop:

If you're set on a 24" bar, then skip is the only way to go.

 

[Big Neb]

I don't think you'll be disappointed by the 24/25 with full comp but if you really notice a power drop, I'd start with the half skip version RSLHK chain. Skip and Half Skip will kick a bit more but as long as you know that before sinking it in wood.

.4 Horsepower may not seem like that much but I think the two saws also have different power curves, personalities and maybe even rpms. Although I've never spun a 310, I would guess that you would notice quite a difference between the two saws.

Anyone spun both a 310 and a 361 back to back?

 

[pgg]

It's strange that so many people seem to have oversize bars on their saws, hilarious! Using a 16" bar on a 200? Bollocks! You need an 260. Using an 18" on a 260? Bollocks! You need a 360. Using a 24" on a 360? Bollocks! You need a 440. Using a 28" on a 440? Bollocks! You need a 660. and so on...

 

[SawTroll]

...
.4 Horsepower may not seem like that much but I think the two saws also have different power curves, personalities ......

I am pretty sure that is true!

If you're set on a 24" bar, then skip is the only way to go.

I believe that is true also, but I have no personal experience ....

Anyone spun both a 310 and a 361 back to back?

Where is Jeff (FHCW) ??????

 

[SawTroll]

It's strange that so many people seem to have oversize bars on their saws, hilarious! Using a 16" bar on a 200? Bollocks! You need an 260. Using an 18" on a 260? Bollocks! You need a 360. Using a 24" on a 360? Bollocks! You need a 440. Using a 28" on a 440? Bollocks! You need a 660. and so on...

Imo 24" bars are generally 70cc + territory, but not in PNW (soft wood).....

User expectations also are part of the picture.

 

[turnkey4099]

I just recently retired my 041/24". Needed another that would haul 24/25". Local dealer convinced me (I was dubious) that my 310 would haul a 25" full skip with no problem. I have only used it once since but it did quite well.

As for selling the 20" bar/chain. Why? Keep it in your rig as a backup incase you get your saw pinched. BTDT back when. Of course I now have 2 saws at all a times with me but if one has just a single saw, a spare bar/chain is worth having. In my case, I will be swapping back to the 20" whenever the log size comes down. I don't like excess bar length when bucking.

Harry K

 

[Wood Hick]

You are on target with keeping your chains sharp, it makes all the difference.
I do not cut much soft wood, but a 24" on a 310 in Pa. hardwoods would slow it down considerably. It makes the saw work harder, but in softwood you should be OK. Keep your other bar and chain, if you need to cut hardwoods in the future you will be glad you have it.