New CSM build

[DaveLindsay]

First off thanks to everyone who posted, all your generosity has made my own project so much easier. Special thanks goes to BobL for answering random questions, and for being super patient.
My home made CSmill is nearly complete I have 8 more holes to drill and tap out in the morning a few more checks get my gear and start milling.

Here is a picture of the mill sitting on a 42" bar( I'm still getting used to imperial measurements so please forgive me if I screw it up) this will be the maximum bar length for this mill. It's made out of inch box tubing for the frame and inch steel rod for the risers and these are about 3' long (usable cutting length).
Not shown is a secondary brace that will link across the top of the two risers to add support and act a second locking mechanism on the risers. It will be directly bolted to the bar. It's total weight is about 16 kg (all the components had a trip in a plane to get home- the only reason I know how much it weighs)
Now to take it for a spin I will let you all know how it goes in the morning
Regards DaveL

 

[DTrap]

Looks nice so far. Post up some pics of it when you finish and then with the saw installed also. Then go cut some lumber.

 

[DaveLindsay]

Well it's finished and attached to the 42" bar just about to hook up the guide rails then off into the paddock to cut up trees

 

[Quietfly]

Looks great, let us know how it works out for you.

 

[abbott295]

Okay, I looked up Mumbullup. It said, Mumbullup, WA. I at first took that to be Washington state in the USA, but by manipulating the map, I was able to see it is Western Australia. It looks like there may be roads in the area, but still may explain the airplane ride, and the needed weight and balance calculation, why you know the weight of the materials. Your place doesn't look too uncivilized for being out in the bush.

Looking good.

 

[jwade]

nice job on the build. looks as if it will work fine. nice scenery there also. we will need to see more pictures of some finished product soon, welcome to the forum.

 

[DaveLindsay]

Well today I managed my first flitch, realistically I spent all day chopping logs to length and hauling them out of backberry nivarna. In total I have about six logs to mill up and now everything is set up I will be milling again tomorrow.
Lessons I have learned today
1. Don't fell timber on the same day you expect to mill it.
2. All jobs take a lot longer than you expect, especially the first time you do it.
3. The help of your significant other driving the tractor to pull the logs out of said blackberry thicket is both awesome and somewhat scary, but still awesome.
4. Spring washers on nuts & bolts really work, not having them on some, shows you what you should have done.
5. It's interesting to note that the "pitch / sound" of the chainsaw changes all the time. Certainly didn't expect that.
6. Battery operated tools- at the most inconvenient time the battery will die on you. Regardless of making sure they were charged the night before. I think this goes along with Murphy's law. Hand tools are a saving grace
7. It was just an awesome experience back into tomorrow.
The logs are euc. rudis (flooded gum) cut to between 4m & 4.5m long (~13-15 ft). They range in diameter between ~40 - 80 cm. I'm planning on cutting dimensional timber out of them 4x2's and 4x4's for a gazebo.

ps Abbott 295- I work in the middle of Western Australia on a mine site you could "drive" but it would take about 12 hrs. So I drive to Perth then fly to site. As you saw I'm about 45mins from nearest city and 25 mins to the nearest town. A great joke around here is
"Where's Mumballup? Between Noggerup and Yabberup!
Regards DaveL

 

[BobL]

Good work Dave.

Yeah I try to prep, setup and sharpen one day, and leave the milling for another day.
When you are up for it I will offer you a chain sharpening tutorial.

The logs look pretty dry meaning they will be harder than usual. Did you have any green logs to start with? - they will be much easier to learn on.

See that washboard effect you are getting occasionally on the finish. That's cause by a synchronicity between the chain speed and the cutting speed.
For a fixed log width if you can generate an even washboard all the way down the log that means you are maintaining an even pressure - like this

Another way of putting it is the logs are too small for the raker angle and the power of the saw .
OTOH this is not alway desirable for finished lumber.
If you want to avoid this and you have a several chains try using a chain with a lower raker angle.
This is where it helps to have several chains as you cannot physically lower the raker angle unless you take more off the cutters.
You could try also angling the mill more to the log so that this widens the cut and this disturb the synchronicity.

Things a re working right in terms of finish when you get something like this.
Thats the same saw and chain as above but with twice as wide a cut.

 

[DaveLindsay]

BobL I will definitely take you up on your offer of a chainsaw sharpening tutorial.
Was back into it today finished another two flitches. Cutting off the face cuts sure take time. The first cut today, I removed the bottom cant by simply dropping the entire bar down reattaching the rails to the top cant and taking off the bottom flitch. I then used Boris( my neighbors Russian made tractor) to pick up the log and rotate it.
I finally started cutting some dimensional lumber. Milled 2 2'x8' x 15ft. Those were the two quickest cuts I have made so far I have two 2'x8's left in the log and then it's onto the next log tomorrow afternoon.
Cheers DaveL

 

[BobL]

I assume you mean 2" x 8" rather than 2' x 8' as the single apostrophe means "feet" in imperial measurements.

Other than that I can see considerable progress.
Make sure you stack them straight with plenty of support, at least every 18"
For narrow cuts (i.e. under say 10" it will pay to have a different chain, one with a MUCH more aggressive raker angle.(9º)and you will find you can go even faster.

I went to the tree loppers yard yesterday to cut some more park benches but gave up after a couple of hours as it was too hot, Same today but I will go tomorrow as it should be a bit cooler

 

[DaveLindsay]

Trust me to get my imperial wrong. Originally I was going to square off the logs onsite and then move them up to the house yard to finish milling them under the shade of our massive lilac tree needless to say it didn't quite happen.
Cutting through the cleaned up edges really makes a difference. It was really slow going when taking the flitches off I think because of the water and debris caught in the outer layer of the tree.
Is there a guide out there regarding determining the best/ most functional way of milling up a tree
Regards DaveL

 

[BobL]

Is there a guide out there regarding determining the best/ most functional way of milling up a tree

Too many variables
EG
What sizes of timber are you after?
What is the wood going to be used for: Musical Instruments or rough construction
How valuable is the wood versus how much wood you are prepared to waste in the milling - cutting everything 1/4 sawn wastes a lot of timber
Time and Ability to turn logs - DO you have some sort of (even semi-automated) log roller?
Looks versus Stability: Flat saw looks nice - quarter sawn more stable.
The log itself - size, curvature, flare, cross sectional shape, hollow, soft heart, cracks, union locations etc.

This is for circulars but has some useful info in it
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/simplified_procedure_grade_lumber.pdf

 

[DaveLindsay]

I had a feeling it might be a bit like Pandora's box. Well regardless of that I'm off for a late afternoon of milling. I'll let you know how it goes.
Cheers DaveL