New guy, have a burned up MS180

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Jeepwm69

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I'm not a big saw guy.

I have a 346XP I mostly use for cleanup around the yard and on the roads on the farm. Dad loves good saws, has a 372XP and an old (still new in box, from early 80's vintage) Husky 2100.

I understand the idea between pro grade stuff and homeowner stuff, am pretty handy with a wrench (I rebuild ATV's and Jeeps as a hobby), and get a lot of friends and family who bring me stuff to fix.

Last weekend a friend brought me a Stihl MS 180 C. He apparently bought it new, loaned it out to someone who ran it with the brake on. He took it to the shop, they quoted him $300 to fix it, so he gave it to me and just bought a new saw.

I've done some nosing around and figured I would ask for specifics now that I have a general idea of what needs to be done.

When I got the saw the clutch was off. Oil pump worm gear threads still look good. Plastic around the clutch is melted.
The brake still works (I loosely put clutches on, engaged brake just to see how it works). According to my friend, it still runs, just has smoked clutches.

I'm guessing the quote he got was basically replacing everything with new parts at full retail plus labor. If I can get it going it would make a decent loaner/ beater saw, although I know the plastic saws will never be able to hang with the 346.

So, looking at these pics, do I simply replace clutch drum and shoes, put it back together and try to run it, or do I need to dig down further into it and get into other stuff? I'm guessing these clutch shoes should have some friction material on them (they are bare metal) and I always replace the clutch drum when I replace shoes (thinking ATV centrifugal clutch here). It looks like it's grooved from the brake anyway.

I see lots of aftermarket parts on ebay cheap. I normally avoid China junk and use OEM parts, but am kinda stumped at Stihl. Looks like they are very good at keeping FSM's and under MSRP parts off the internet.

Any suggestions? Hate throwing stuff out. I could part it out if I can't fix it, but would really like to get it running if I can do it without spending an arm and a leg on it.
 

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If the plastic worm gear didn't melt, then I'd say you're probably still good as far as the crank seals go.

The clutch shoes are just bare metal--no friction material.

Sounds like you just need a new drum & drum bearing.

The melted plastic stuff? Cut the melty bits out of the way with a knife or dremel.

I bet you're $20 away from a nice little saw.
 
I'm not a big saw guy.

I have a 346XP I mostly use for cleanup around the yard and on the roads on the farm. Dad loves good saws, has a 372XP and an old (still new in box, from early 80's vintage) Husky 2100.

I understand the idea between pro grade stuff and homeowner stuff, am pretty handy with a wrench (I rebuild ATV's and Jeeps as a hobby), and get a lot of friends and family who bring me stuff to fix.

Last weekend a friend brought me a Stihl MS 180 C. He apparently bought it new, loaned it out to someone who ran it with the brake on. He took it to the shop, they quoted him $300 to fix it, so he gave it to me and just bought a new saw.

I've done some nosing around and figured I would ask for specifics now that I have a general idea of what needs to be done.

When I got the saw the clutch was off. Oil pump worm gear threads still look good. Plastic around the clutch is melted.
The brake still works (I loosely put clutches on, engaged brake just to see how it works). According to my friend, it still runs, just has smoked clutches.

I'm guessing the quote he got was basically replacing everything with new parts at full retail plus labor. If I can get it going it would make a decent loaner/ beater saw, although I know the plastic saws will never be able to hang with the 346.

So, looking at these pics, do I simply replace clutch drum and shoes, put it back together and try to run it, or do I need to dig down further into it and get into other stuff? I'm guessing these clutch shoes should have some friction material on them (they are bare metal) and I always replace the clutch drum when I replace shoes (thinking ATV centrifugal clutch here). It looks like it's grooved from the brake anyway.

I see lots of aftermarket parts on ebay cheap. I normally avoid China junk and use OEM parts, but am kinda stumped at Stihl. Looks like they are very good at keeping FSM's and under MSRP parts off the internet.

Any suggestions? Hate throwing stuff out. I could part it out if I can't fix it, but would really like to get it running if I can do it without spending an arm and a leg on it.
Huztl. Net clutch and sprocket with new clip 5.00 for everything plus shipping or oem stihl.
 
Huztl. Net clutch and sprocket with new clip 5.00 for everything plus shipping or oem stihl.
So get this, slap it on, and see how it does?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-6T-Clut...0-MS180-NEW-/351633387648?hash=item51defbb080
Looking at how that oiler worn gear works, I guess the little wire goes in the notch in the clutch drum, and spins when the motor is revved up enough to engage the clutches, right?
I'll have to make sure none of the melted plastics will interfere with that wire spinning, but otherwise I'll slap it back together and try it out.

Thanks for the reply!
 
Put it back together and run it.

Don't try to run it with the brake engaged.

As a general rule, I don't ever use the brake. I'm careful with saws. Dad nicked himself in the leg when I was a kid, and the image was ingrained. Only time the brake gets engaged is if it jumps into the wood while I'm cutting.
 
Nib 2100!!!! Dang where's the pics of that??? [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Dad is famous around here for buying stuff and never using it. The pics below were one of two oak trees I had taken down by a pro. Was a lot cheaper for him to cut and leave than it was for him to haul away, and that's a lot of red oak firewood, so I had him cut them and leave them.

Dad bought the 2100 back in the 80's after seeing what the people logging our farm where using. Then he bought a 372XP a few years later.

When I went to get a saw from him to cut these two huge oaks up, he gave me an old Homelite XL with a 16" bar on it. I had to cut down one side of the tree, and then go around and match the cut on the other side of the tree. Once I got down about 20 feet from the bottom even doing that the cuts wouldn't meet, so he FINALLY got out the 372XP, which had been in the box unused for probably 15-20 years. I finished the trees up with that, and it was a LOT easier cutting.

He also has a wood splitter for the back of the tractor that he bought back in the 80's. Never been used, and he said it was too much trouble to get it out and get everything hooked up, so I hand split all that wood using wedges and a 10lb sledge.

I picked up the 346XP because he doesn't loan stuff out easily. LOL
 

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Dad is famous around here for buying stuff and never using it. The pics below were one of two oak trees I had taken down by a pro. Was a lot cheaper for him to cut and leave than it was for him to haul away, and that's a lot of red oak firewood, so I had him cut them and leave them.

Dad bought the 2100 back in the 80's after seeing what the people logging our farm where using. Then he bought a 372XP a few years later.

When I went to get a saw from him to cut these two huge oaks up, he gave me an old Homelite XL with a 16" bar on it. I had to cut down one side of the tree, and then go around and match the cut on the other side of the tree. Once I got down about 20 feet from the bottom even doing that the cuts wouldn't meet, so he FINALLY got out the 372XP, which had been in the box unused for probably 15-20 years. I finished the trees up with that, and it was a LOT easier cutting.

He also has a wood splitter for the back of the tractor that he bought back in the 80's. Never been used, and he said it was too much trouble to get it out and get everything hooked up, so I hand split all that wood using wedges and a 10lb sledge.

I picked up the 346XP because he doesn't loan stuff out easily. LOL
I got a husky 288 off my brother when he retired from logging.
A guy i know called often wanting to borrow it.
I told him no.
I knew he had bought a new stihl 660 it turned out he didn't want to get it dirty.
And wanted my saw to keep from scratching his precious baby lol
 
I got a husky 288 off my brother when he retired from logging.
A guy i know called often wanting to borrow it.
I told him no.
I knew he had bought a new stihl 660 it turned out he didn't want to get it dirty.
And wanted my saw to keep from scratching his precious baby lol

Wow. That's some nerve.

I had a friend last weekend come down and clear some ATV trails on our land. He said he didn't have a saw. I just said "Well we'll do it later then".

I'm not loaning out my 346.

If I can get this Stihl running, it will be the loaner/ beater saw, but I'm not loaning out a good saw.
 
Just make sure the bar oil passage ways are not burnt threw....I had a ms250 all rebuilt and put together one time, and the damn thing leashes bar oil threw a burnt hole, (could not patch it)....so all time was wasted on that one...
 
Another thing to check is if the duck bill vent in the oil tank is clear. Every model saw like yours I've had has been plugged not letting it vent properly. Need to take recoil off to get to it if my memory is intact today.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
I've got three 180s now freebies from a tree service.
And i have had several 170/180s over the years.
They are quite tough little saw's
The last couple i rebuilt i put wt 215 carbs off the 250 on them muff modded and bumped the timing a little.
Big help to these saw's.
 

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