new guy milling

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm more partial to a cant hook. A peavey has a point at the nose, a cant hook doesn't. Go to the LogRite website and look. I've got the 60" cant hook that I've had for years. Incredible piece of engineering. Don't use my old one very much anymore.

Thanks Oldsaw. Originally I couldn't see why I'd want something that is so long...I mean 60"!!! When reading Bobls links, I saw photos of guys leaning the handle on their shoulder (holding the hook, holding the log in position) freeing up their hands to maybe...block the tree in position? I never thought of that not having used a cant hook or a peavey before.
 
BobL...you always seem to amaze me with your links to valuable information.
Cheers Andrew, I go through an interesting tension when it comes to making rigs and jigs. As a scientist one is trained to go see what has been done first so I spend a fair bit of time researching stuff. But before I do that I often just see what I can come up with by myself - that way I an not fooled into just following the existing ruts. 95% of the time I cannot compete with what has been done before so I do end up following the herd.

A very good history lesson on logging tools. You mentioned that your cant dragon is too big for small logs...how small is that? Your small ones might be big for me.
By too big, I mean the hooks are too big. My big cant hook is 14" long and the handle is 48" long so it is 62" long overall. The Cant dragon is 12" long with a 36" handle and the hook is still too big for small longs. The next one I make will have a 10" hook.

Lots of danger in the woods...I bet your Dad would be amazed to hear it's more dangerous to get to the woods..than work in them.
Not really, he stopped felling trees was he was permanently disabled in a logging truck accident on the way to the logging site.

The accident was, as they say, an unfortunate series of events.

The truck was doing 50 mph in a storm and Lightning hit a 120' x 36" hardwood tree that fell onto a gravel road immediately in front of the log truck. The driver hit the brakes hard, and instinctively steered his side of the truck away from the tree. The air brakes on the prime mover held, but they failed on the massive 8 wheeled bogie/jinker traveling behind, and as it was not attached firmly enough to the hitch, it slid down the hitch and slammed the truck now at an angle into the log. Dad was on the side of the truck that struck the tree.

Dad could see all this coming so he grabbed hold of the sides of his seat just as the truck hit. As he flew through the truck windscreen with is head, still hanging onto the passengers seat (luckily he had not put on his seat belt of he would have been squashed into a 2' gap) he tore off his left knee cap and broke his left leg in several places. He then went flying through the air and hit a big upright tree head on (lucky he had his hardhat on) broke several ribs, cracked three vertebrae and had serious internal injuries. He spent 2 years off work but never recovered his physical health and went back to school and became an office worker. For this injury and loss of income he was paid the princely sum of US$1200 which basically our family broke - but that is another story.

Like I said - the drive to milling it's a dangerous business.
 
ok the latex comes out tomorrow. It will be part of my regular cutting tool box. I think with all this good advice I am almost ready to tackle the piece I really want to mill. I will probably make temp shelves from my first cuts and turn them into fire wood after the good stuff dries after a couple of years. Would linseed oil be a good sealer for the wood that is inside or will the fumes kill me. Doesn' t smell too bad in the can.
 
ok the latex comes out tomorrow. It will be part of my regular cutting tool box. I think with all this good advice I am almost ready to tackle the piece I really want to mill. I will probably make temp shelves from my first cuts and turn them into fire wood after the good stuff dries after a couple of years. Would linseed oil be a good sealer for the wood that is inside or will the fumes kill me. Doesn' t smell too bad in the can.

Are you intending to use the linseed as an end sealer? If so it will not work all that well unless you apply multiple coats. You need something a bit more impervious like plastic paint or a wax based end sealer. As a general finish Linseed is fine for inside use but may want to let it dry in your shed or outside first. Linseed is used as a base of many proprietary finishes. I imagine raw linseed will take a lot longer to dry in your cold weather. I use pale boiled linseed oil which dries quicker.
 
I was impatient and wanted to make some shelves from my wood while the good stuff drys outside for 4 years. So I wanted something that did not hide the natural beauty of the wood and did seal in the moisture into the wood and I could take it off with my plane or belt sander later in a few years. I know that latex will work but will hide the grain.
 
I was impatient and wanted to make some shelves from my wood while the good stuff drys outside for 4 years. So I wanted something that did not hide the natural beauty of the wood and did seal in the moisture into the wood and I could take it off with my plane or belt sander later in a few years. I know that latex will work but will hide the grain.

OK - I get it know.
I assume you know you only need to add sealer to the ends of the wood and if you add a sealer all over it will take decades to dry?

For green timber shelving, linseed sounds fine and you thin it down with a bit of turps if you wanted it to dry out a bit quicker. I would apply it to the wood if it was soaking wet, at least give the surface a chance to dry out. You could always also just apply it to one side of the wood.
 
I have heard about sealing the ends with various things. Right now I am looking into using Tung oil. I think Boiled linseed is out because of the outgassing. Tung oil with no additives might work ok? :bang:
 
No finish

You'll regret finishing the sides of the green wood. If you must use it as shelves just leave it bare so it will dry. Keep in mind that anything you place on the wet wood will be affected by the moisture.
 
I bought some anchorseal yesterday so I am sealing the ends today. I don't really want to use the stuff as shelves but I already have several hundred linear feet and am running out of ideas where to stack the stuff. :monkey:
 
Got a break in the weather so anchor sealed all the inside and outside stuff I could get to. Pic of milling site attached
 
Nice job getting it all sealed up. Looks like you have an area big enough you could get your truck chained up and get them up on level ground. If not...rolling them so they are downhill (for milling) will be your next job.
Lots of solar panels (I'm assuming).

attachment.php
 
I've got a steep backyard like that with some trees down that I'll mill pretty soon. I would not have cut them there but the previous owner must have thought it a good idea.
 
Thanks Oldsaw. Originally I couldn't see why I'd want something that is so long...I mean 60"!!! When reading Bobls links, I saw photos of guys leaning the handle on their shoulder (holding the hook, holding the log in position) freeing up their hands to maybe...block the tree in position? I never thought of that not having used a cant hook or a peavey before.

My other cant hook is about 50" and that doesn't often get the leverage I often need. An 8", wet, hardwood log tends to be heavy, and the extra force a long lever gets you often pays off. You have to realize the weight you are dealing with, and that you are often on soft ground which makes moving logs harder. Even with a 60", it comes up short quite often.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top