new guy

[1hander]

hello everyone.. just wanted to introduce myself and ask some pretty specific questions that i know you guys will know,
im a disabled vet with no use of my left arm.. i recently acquired an 08s, cuz i want to restore it.. i know its not the best saw to restore but... from the time i was 9 to 17 i was the mechanic for my dads saws, and at 10 he let me start swingin one.. the saw just has alot of memories attached to it, hardship, pain, sacrifice and almost cut my leg off once LOL.. but these saws kept us fed, clothed and a roof over our heads and i learned the value of hard work with them. just the sound and smell immediately floods my mind with things i had forgotten .

i got it running after finding a large clot of sediment in the filter of the tank.. but it still smokes a good bit more than it should.. and has 137psi compression. 137 is not bad, if not for the scoring in the cylinder and the skirt wear on the piston. it could run fine like that but im going from the ground up with still only parts which i know will cost more than the saw is worth..but it is not about the money.

its a 47mm piston but im not sure if this is supposed to have a 47 or 49mm.. it does not have any provisions on the case for a chain brake so i think it is supposed to be a 47mm version.

my questions are,

1.does the 49mm version of the 08s have a longer stroke than the 47mm version.
2. does the 49mm piston have a larger diameter wrist pin than the 47mm version
3. if the stroke is longer on the 49mm version can i interchange the 47mm and 49mm crankshaft with the same cylinder or does the longer stroke (if it has one) cause a problem with ignition timing and port timing
i guess my real question is, can use a 49mm piston and cylinder with the 47mm version of the 08s
4. is the stroke the same on the 47 and 49mm versions------ 32mm
Rick

 

[CR888]

Not an 08s expert but welcome to the forum. Sounds like a worthwhile project, I know this model had a couple of displacement differences & I'd guess the the bottom ends would be the same. I think these saws are possibly the biggest Top-handle saws ever made. Tough saws for sure.

 

[1hander]

thanks for the reply boss, i remember my back hurtin from it and not bein able to feel my hands from vibration.
i think it started 44 then 47 then 49 ,, im right in the middle but would like to put on a 49mm top end if i cant find the 47mm top end parts, i just discovered the fan is cracked and its the old style with plaster starter ring..alot harder to find it seems and the flywheel has a bit of a wobble to it.. so either the flywheel hub is bent or the crankshaft is bent,
im not sure how likely the crank is to bend ..but the hub on the flwheel could definitely bend and wobble
so it just got alot more expensive.., oh well.,,,ill know when i get the flywheel puller.. gotta raid the old mans saw toolbox..he may have some parts too...ill spend a bit of time acquiring parts then once ive got everything that looks like it needs replacing ill go to paint.

 

[Woodslasher]

It might just be bad bearings and not a bent crankshaft.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I have an 011 that I put a none matching cylinder on it with great success. The only thing that I know about it was the piston had the same measurements for the con rod. I had to make some mods to get the cylinder bolted down, but after that no real issues. I have replaced the roller bearings in the crank a couple of times which helps, but a real brand new crank would be better. It is easy starting and a good one hander. Thanks

 

[1hander]

It might just be bad bearings and not a bent crankshaft.

hey slash, yea i though t that might be the case.. but along the with the slight wobble it also has a bind to it..which could still be a bearing..it also has what appears to be about 1/16 of excessive side thrust in the crank, might have a bearing as you say or a missing bearing circlip. either way, the tool or me gettin off my arse to design and cut the tool on the cnc mill will solve that question.

I have an 011 that I put a none matching cylinder on it with great success. The only thing that I know about it was the piston had the same measurements for the con rod. I had to make some mods to get the cylinder bolted down, but after that no real issues. I have replaced the roller bearings in the crank a couple of times which helps, but a real brand new crank would be better. It is easy starting and a good one hander. Thanks

hello Ted, yes i do plan on getting an older smaller easier to maneuver saw in the future. the fun part here will be me figuring out how to swing this pig one handed, i have some ideas but they will take time to come to fruition from trial and error.. the only way right now for me figure out the answers to my above questions is to buy a whole bunch of parts i may not use and measure them. plus finding a parts list for the saw i actually have is not the easiest thing.. i need to find and old parts list .. like a 197? list.

the newer 08s list i have lists the 47mm as older version.. and the 49mm as the newer version, seperate part numbers but there is only one crankshaft listed
1108 030 0403 is listed as the 08s crank
1108 030 0402 is listed as ts350 crank.
ive found a replacement crank that replaces both of the above cranks, with one part number so they theoretically should by 32mm stroke

all of the below pistons are listed on the diagram as working with the above part numbers , so again theoretically the cylinder and piston assemblies that correspond to the below listed pistons should all work with the above crankshafts which should both be 32mm
4201 030 2000 listed as 49mm piston for 08s
1108 030 2020 listed as 47mm piston for 08s
1108 030 2020 listed as 49mm piston for ts350

only thing these numbers dont take into account is that i dont have an older parts list that corresponds tp my saw, which im pretty sure these are still the same part numbers though

i have the correct owners manual for my ts350 and it has and is listed with a 49mm piston and 32mm stroke.. which also leads me to believe the 47mm and 49mm piston and cylinder sets are interchangeable

 

[pioneerguy600]

This guy will pop up and help you with an IPL and possibly a repair manual,

@atpchas

 

[1hander]

thanks ill give him a shout

 

[TRTermite]

hello everyone.. just wanted to introduce myself and ask some pretty specific questions that i know you guys will know,
im a disabled vet with no use of my left arm.. i recently acquired an 08s, cuz i want to restore it.. i know its not the best saw to restore but... from the time i was 9 to 17 i was the mechanic for my dads saws, and at 10 he let me start swingin one.. the saw just has alot of memories attached to it, hardship, pain, sacrifice and almost cut my leg off once LOL.. but these saws kept us fed, clothed and a roof over our heads and i learned the value of hard work with them. just the sound and smell immediately floods my mind with things i had forgotten .

i got it running after finding a large clot of sediment in the filter of the tank.. but it still smokes a good bit more than it should.. and has 137psi compression. 137 is not bad, if not for the scoring in the cylinder and the skirt wear on the piston. it could run fine like that but im going from the ground up with still only parts which i know will cost more than the saw is worth..but it is not about the money.

its a 47mm piston but im not sure if this is supposed to have a 47 or 49mm.. it does not have any provisions on the case for a chain brake so i think it is supposed to be a 47mm version.

my questions are,

1.does the 49mm version of the 08s have a longer stroke than the 47mm version.
2. does the 49mm piston have a larger diameter wrist pin than the 47mm version
3. if the stroke is longer on the 49mm version can i interchange the 47mm and 49mm crankshaft with the same cylinder or does the longer stroke (if it has one) cause a problem with ignition timing and port timing
i guess my real question is, can use a 49mm piston and cylinder with the 47mm version of the 08s
4. is the stroke the same on the 47 and 49mm versions------ 32mm
Rick

Definitive Dave might have a lot to say on the 08 stuff.. He likes these slow saws but now seems to be getting race obsessed.

 

[mogulmasher]

I don't know anything about an 08, but wanted to thank you for your service!

 

[1hander]

I don't know anything about an 08, but wanted to thank you for your service!

thank you sir..
i consider it a privilege to have served and have the highest admiration and respect for the old soldiers and dirt chewers who served before me so i could the same

 

[1hander]

i think finding the right bar is going to be the biggest challenge.. but once i find one i probly wont use it, ill use a replacement for cutting.. those old stihl bars are crazy expensive

 

[Huskybill]

Thank you for your service, Maybe new rings would fix it? eBay,

Here’s your saw,

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...ac3de237edcd7c5c88256ba200112bba?OpenDocument

eBay o8 parts.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=stihl+m08&_sacat=0

Bars not sure what fits
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...at=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=stihl+m08

 

[1hander]

i thought at first that was my saw as well, that is the 34mm stroke ,44mm piston version.. and i was wondering if my saw was not running right because maybe someone put a 47mm topend on it with with a 34mm stroke crank instead of the 32mm crank. mine does have 47mm piston and cylinder on it, but im not sure about the crank yet until i get it apart..

would the 47mm topend (32mm stroke)not function properly with a 34mm stroke crank. i would think that this scenario would severely throw of timing in relation to cylinder ports and piston location during the combustion cycle

 

[1hander]

after doing just a bit of digging, i found out that the timing was super super far off, im sure the saw was just kinda bolted together and timing was not adjusted, the timing plate was at maximum retard setting , im ot sure how many degrees before tdc that is but its alot...which is why it would idle and rev a bit but as soon as it started to rev a bit it would bog and die..

 

[1hander]

i decided to just order the flywheel puller (dad lost his)and have a dial indicator mount that will serve as a mount to find TDC and set the timing on the stator plate. the old man still had the alot of the tools i used to use. man the memories from holding those tools in my hand ... they still smell the same...and ill just be using a flukemeter i have to find where the points open. maaaaaaaannnnnnnnn this is gonna be fun. my dad said i could have his old stihl tools..when i told him why i need them, he almost cried , ive never seen the old man evenn come close to cryin.

 

[1hander]

hey guys. after wrestling with the clutch hub for about an hour cuz the previous chucklehead mounted it upside down..so i used a 3 jaw puller and just managed to grab the edges of the hub.. im looking for the replacement clutch set... can anyone tell me what the difference is in clutch A or B .. and does either one have have a specific clutch drum..

it seems after looking at alot of the same part numbers or both a and b clutch the thickness of the clutch liners vary quite a bit even on the same part numbers.. only thing i can guess thus far is one set is heavier than the other
only thing i know is that clutch B was an option but im not sure what was special about it

 

[svk]

Welcome to the site!

 

[1hander]

Welcome to the site!

thank you for the welcome sir

 

[1hander]

after looking at lots of pictures, it looks like
1100 168 2001 clutch A is a full metallic shoe
and 1100 168 2002 clutch B is a friction lined shoe.
so i guess the choice comes down to either wearing out more clutch bells or clutch shoes
and the full metallic would probably have less likelihood of overheating and slipping under heavy load
im going with the B clutch...metal on metal friction is something i usually try to stay away from