New here, general intro and immediate problem with Stihl 017

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hboy43

ArboristSite Lurker
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Location
Central Ontario
Hello:

I am new here. I was referred here by someone from the usenet group misc.rural.

I am a new rural resident (Central Ontario, 200 km west of Ottawa) with 28 acres of mostly sugar maple bush. I acquired a Stihl 017 5 years ago and have used it to process probably 10 cords of wood from trees on my property. I am highly amateur at the forestry business obviously, but touch wood, I havn't come even close to killing myself yet. It helps that probably 95% of the trees are under 10 inches and 99% are under 12 inches. I know you pros wouldn't have much to do with such a small saw, but for me being undersized and slow (and safety chained!) adds a measure of safety.

I only ever saw about 2 tanks a day and between sawing, I haul wood by various "armstrong" methods. This time of year a little sled I made with old downhill skiis. So I am not too concerned about fatigue issues that a larger saw would address, I am worn out by moving wood far sooner than cutting it.

So I am inclined to think that I have about the right saw for me with one exception. I want to be able to repair it myself and Stihl won't release technical manuals as a matter of policy. Don't know if it is a move to thwart liability, or a move to protect the dealership repair monopoly. Probably a bit of both. I have a copy of "Chain Saw Service Manual 10th ed", but the section devoted to the 017 really isn't all that helpful to me. If I had 10 years experience with small engines, it would probably do just fine.

The current problem is that I was a little forceful the other day and pulled out the upper "anti-vibration rubber mount". It does not seem possible to just push it back in as the insider "retainer" (no reference to this part in manual mentioned above) prevents it. But I cannot remove the inside retainer without doing some (to me) major disassembly. I don't want to make a catastrophic blunder, but I also don't want to be trotting to the dealer (70 km round trip) for every little thing.

You know, maybe for my needs a 2 man cross-cut saw would be the right tool as I have a book that will tell me how to maintain and sharpen it. But I don't have the second man (grin). Seriously if a manual solution is feasible for 5 cords annually, please point it out to me. I am not excessively strong, but I am youngish (43) and retired in the sense that I don't have a job to go to every day, so speed isn't a big factor, especially when there isn't much else productive to do around here in the middle of winter. I like being outdoors and it keeps me fitter.

Maybe Husqvarna has a similarly sized saw and maybe they will release technical data.

Anyhow I don't have a whole lot to add as a rank amateur, so I will mostly observe form the sidelines. I would be very interested in hearing from people in a similar situation, especially with regards to how you move the wood. I don't really want a mechanical or biological beast on the payroll (yet, we'll talk again when I am doing this at 60 or 70). Unfortunately though, my wood is downhill from the house by an elevation change of as much as 10 or 15 metres. Plus the terrain rolls, so even some kind of manual or electric motorized winch arrangement doesn't look feasible either. I am in defenite need of a clever idea here. Best one so far is to build a cargo tricycle with a 500 pound capacity and really low gearing. I am a cyclist anyhow so it would be a natural approach. Then I figure that 5 cords (wet) is about 40,000 pounds is about 80 trips per year at 15 minutes a trip.

Cheers,

Jonathan
 
buffer

You will need to remove the muffler. Put some penetrating oil on the muffler nuts first. With the muffler off, you can remove the inside plastic plug, reinstall the buffer, then install the plastic plugs. Put the muffler back on and you are set to go.
 
Good news/bad news

Lakeside53 said:
Any Stihl dealer can order you a workshop manual if they choose... The IPL is available from Stihl at no charge - just go to their web site.

Here's the manual: http://www.giftsofwood.com/Stihl/workshop manuals/017 018 workshop manual.pdf

Here's the ipl: http://www.giftsofwood.com/Stihl/IPLs/stihl 017 IPL.pdf


The good news is this is the information I was seeking. Thank you very much. Are you the proprietor of the site? I am an amateur woodworker too and must examine the site in greater detail.

The bad news is from a quick perusal: change AV mount leads to remove engine which leads to remove muffler, clutch, handle frame, carburetor, flywheel. If I have a go at this, I will either become very familiar with my machine, or I will destroy it in trying.

Another poster suggested that this job is much simpler than it appears, and it probably is on a pro saw. I suspect the mounts would be changed quite regularly on a saw used 300 days a year and you wouldn't need to disassemble the machine to do it. The down side of the consumer level product.

Thanks again

Jonathan
 
Click the link and backtrack to the page that lists the models that are covered.
 
Idea for kludge

stihltech said:
Sorry, I gave you the description for a 210. You do not have to remove the muffler, only the top cover. NOT the motor, unless I am misunderstanding you.

Hi stihltech:

Thanks for your continued attention.

I am referring to the top AV mount. In order to get it in, one must get the inside retainer out. The inside retainer is trapped by the engine cooling fins, or in other words the engine. I don't see any way I could brute force the rubber mount in with that retainer in the way.

Anyhow, I have come up with an idea for a kludge. Mold in place a new mount out of silicone rubber. I should be able to jerry-rig everything in place and squirt silicone into the area of interest.

I can't see it being worthwhile on a $300(Canadian) new saw to pay someone probably half that to take the thing apart to swap in a piece of rubber. I don't have the setup here right now to attempt it myself either, and frankly it wouldn't be particularly time efficient. Is my analysis correct, can I expect a bill that size to essentially take a chainsaw apart to the module level and put it back together again. There are going to be seized fasteners etc, etc. Just doesn't seem worthwhile.

Live and learn.

Jonathan
 
It really doesn't take all that long to do... and the part is only a few $$. Follow the manual and you'll be fine.
 
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