New Oregon Corded Electric Chainsaw

[Philbert]

Oregon introduced a battery-powered chainsaw a few years back. Since then, its 'PowerNow' brand has grown to include: a cordless pole saw, hedge trimmer, and string trimmers, with new products announced for Spring 2015.

http://oregoncordless.com/

I was surprised when they announced a new, corded, electric chainsaw, also equipped with their PowerSharp chain and a built-in sharpener. I like electric chainsaws, so I asked if I could demo one, and compare it to a couple of other saws: their CS250, 40 volt, battery saw; and my Makita UC4000, 13 amp, corded, electric saw.

All 3 of these saws run PowerSharp chain, with the Oregon models having a built-in sharpening lever. My Makita uses one of their aftermarket kits with the bar-end sharpening cassette. All 3 saws can also be fitted with standard 3/8 low-profile, .050 gauge chain, if the user prefers.

These saws are not identical: they have different power ratings, different chain speeds, different bar lengths; etc. So this is not a competitive, or quantitative comparison. It is a subjective evaluation of this new saw, using some familiar saws for reference.









References:
Oregon CS1500 Spec Sheet
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/corded/CS1500.htm

Oregon 40V Saw thread
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/review-oregon-powernow-cordless-chainsaw.179262/

Oregon 40V Pole Saw review
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-40-volt-pole-saw.248941/

PowerSharp threads
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/powersharp.148391/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-powersharp.125402/

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Electric Chainsaws - General

Electric chainsaws are not for everyone.

General advantages include: convenience; ease of operation; low noise levels; reduced vibration; and a lack of fuel related issues (ethanol, spark plugs, filters, carbs, flooding, straight gassing, lean seizures, etc.). Like gas saws, electric saws come in a range of sizes, quality, and price points; from as low as $40 at discount stores, to more than $500 for certain orange-and-white models made in Germany.

They are not ideal for every situation, but a good choice in the city, or within 100 feet of an outlet in a barn, shop, garage, etc. They can sometimes be used indoors! While most do not have the chain speed and power of an average gas chainsaw, the better ones are more than adequate for many firewood and pruning tasks.

Even modest priced, corded electric saws can be more powerful than most battery operated saws, and will keep cutting as long as power is supplied*.

*Note that bar and chain oil still needs to be refilled!

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Initial Impressions

Overall, the saw has a solid, quality feel. Well finished case and components. Large handles, with rubber or textured grips. Easy to access bar oil fill cap with visible oil level indicator. Pretty clean under the clutch cover for easy cleaning. I am not a big fan of tool-less chain tensioners, but this one felt pretty easy to adjust with bare, clean hands (gloves and oil may change things).

Vital Statistics Oregon CS1500

- 15 amps, 120 volts, double insulated (US model);
- 18 inch bar (A041 mount), 17 inches usable cutting length;
- 3/8 low profile, .050 gauge, PowerSharp chain (but can be equipped with any standard 3/8 low profile chain with the sharpening stone removed);
- built-in chain sharpener (PowerSharp only);
- 48.1 fps chain speed (Instruction Manual - differs from speed quoted on website);
- 12.6 pounds with bar and chain;
- tool-less chain tension;
- chain brake;
- $130 - $140 on-line pricing.

Philbert

 

[Wagnerwerks]

You are just full of new toys this year!

 

[Philbert]

Cut Some Cookies

Subjective and informal, totally qualitative testing was done in my secret test facility, hidden in a residential neighborhood. Temps were around 38°F. I used Husqvarna winter weight bar oil. Wood was 4 to 8 inch diameter birch, cut maybe 6 weeks ago, and 7 inch diameter pine, cut maybe 8 months ago, scrounged from neighbors. Due to recent temperatures, this wood may have still been frozen when cut. You can see my patent pending log mount/test fixture, cleverly camouflaged as a picnic table.





I used a 50', 12/3 extension cord, on a 15 amp GFCI protected circuit, to be sure that the saws had plenty of power, and because I was standing in slushy snow. Both of the corded tools are double insulated.

Initially, I really wanted to compare the new corded Oregon saw with the Oregon cordless saw running the same PowerSharp chain. The difference in power and chain speed between the 40 volt battery saw, and the corded electrics was immediately apparent. While the CS250 was able to cut all of the wood, and certainly offers some convenience being untethered by a cord, it clearly falls into another category of saw. The 13 and 15 amp corded saws have dramatically more grunt, speed, and power, so I focused mostly on comparing those two for the remainder of the evaluation.


The 3 Amigos!


All 3 saws with the PowerSharp chain cut smooth, thin, cookies.


And made big chips!

Philbert

 

[cobey]

witch plug in was strongest??

 

[Philbert]

Electric to Electric

I really like my Makita electric (model UC4000; replaced by newer, 15 amp, UC4030A model). I have cut a lot of firewood and storm damage with it, mostly using PowerSharp chain for the last few years. It has been my 'low-maintenance-in-the-city' cutting combination.

The CS1500 (15 amps, 18" bar) and Makita (13 amps, 16" bar) were very competitive. Weight and handle spacing are similar, except that the Oregon has an angled front/top handle, like Husqvarna saws. Actual difference in bar length was only 1". Cutting performance between these 2 saws was also comparable. I did not do timed tests. The Makita is maybe 10 years old (a HD rental rescue) with a used PowerSharp chain. The Oregon is fresh out of the box, with a brand new PowerSharp chain. So, again, it was not a controlled test.



There are some objective differences between these 2 saws. The Oregon has a side-winder style motor, and the Makita is an in-line design. This could affect balance in some situations, and the ability to work in tight spaces (e.g. thick hedges), but was not an issue for this type of cutting. The Oregon corded saw also has an electric brake: when you release the trigger, the chain stops immediately. The chain on this Makita (and the Oregon 40 volt saw) coasts when the trigger is released, which could be a safety issue in some situation. All 3 of these saws are also equipped with a conventional, lever operated chain brake, similar to those on gas powered chainsaws.

The cooling fan on the CS1500 ejects a strong stream of air from the bottom of the saw. This is useful to blow chips out/off of the cut in most situations, but was a real surprise (and created a mess) when I tried the saw indoors!. The Oregon saw also has the built-in chain sharpener, instead of needing to use the separate sharpening cassette - another convenience feature.


The PowerSharp chain also noodles well!

Tool-less chain tensioners are becoming 'standard equipment' on consumer chainsaws. They are convenient, and the user does not have to keep track of a scrench. I have had trouble with the small thumb wheels on some models. This saw has a large wing nut in the center, which replaces the bar nut, and a large ring on the outside (see photos in first post) to tension the chain. I feel that I can still tension the chain more accurately with a screwdriver, but this system worked OK. The tool-less tensioner also makes it harder to mount the chain, to clean the bar, and to flip the bar for maintenance. But there is a trade off on cleaning under the cover without all of the chain brake hardware on gas saws.

Philbert

 

[sawfun]

I imagine the Oregon saw will have about the same speed and power as a mse180. Both saws are 15 amp and 3/8 low pro. Both have the cheap adjuster and are plastic case. But the Stihl is more than $200 over the price of an Oregon.The Makita runs .325 and is a mag case. Probably not a mag case at that price. The mse180 & mse220 are both 15 amp but the 220 is way stronger even running full size 3/8. so amps are good, but not everything.

 

[Philbert]

Bottom line?

I was very impressed with this saw in my once-over evaluation and in this very limited test, comparing it to a trusted reference saw.

The CS1500 is almost half the price of the Makita (street prices), and cut competitively. A more objective, quantitative test might be to compare it side-by-side with the current (15 amp) Makita/Dolmar model, and with the similarly priced, WORX 15 amp, 18" saw (model WG304).

I need to try it in more types of wood, and some larger sizes, including, burying the full bar in wood 17 inches or larger in diameter, to see how it holds up to that challenge. Although, in practice, most of the wood I would cut with this saw would probably be 12 inches in diameter or less. I will try to bring it to some GTGs for others to try as well.

I would feel very comfortable recommending this to a friend. Equipped with the PowerSharp chain, and the built-in sharpener, this is a good, low maintenance cutting choice, for use in the city, or anywhere near an outlet.


Philbert

 

[Philbert]

I imagine the Oregon saw will have about the same speed and power as a mse180. Both saws are 15 amp and 3/8 low pro. Both have the cheap adjuster and are plastic case. But the Stihl is more than $200 over the price of an Oregon.The Makita runs .325 and is a mag case. Probably not a mag case at that price. The mse180 & mse220 are both 15 amp but the 220 is way stronger even running full size 3/8. so amps are good, but not everything.

The rated amps, chain speeds, and recommended chains for some of these corded, electric saws are:

Oregon CS1500 (15 amps) - 48 fps, 3/8 low profile, PowerSharp
Makita UC4000 (13 amps) - 43 fps, 3/8 low profile
Makita UC4030A (15 amps) - 43 fps, 3/8 low profile
WORX WG304 (15 amps) - 39 fps, 3/8 low profile
Husqvarna 316EL (13 amps), 48 fps, 3/8 low profile
These saws appear to fall within a similar grouping.

I could not find all the information on the STIHL saws on their USA website: ** somebody (dealer) know for sure? I will update/add it in. Thanks! ***

STIHL MSE170 (13.1 amps) - ?, 3/8 low profile
STIHL MSE210 (? amps) - ?, ?
STIHL MSE220 (15 amps) - ?, 3/8 (full sized)
One of these might fit into that same group.

I like the plastic cases on the electric saws - it is part of the double insulation design.

I have not personally used any the STIHL electric saws, but have 3 or 4 other electrics that I did not list. 15 amps is the practical maximum for a 120 volt power tool, so there may be trade offs with torque, speed, etc., between some of these saws. As with gas saws, sometimes you want the more powerful one; and sometimes you want a lighter one that meets the task demands, balances well, etc.

Philbert

*EDITS:
Added in Husqvarna 316EL - also sold as Jonsered 2116EL
Makita UC4030 also sold as Dolmar ES173A (rated at 14.5 amps)

 

[sawfun]

I own and have used the Makita, the Stihls mse180 & mse220 as well as an Echo rated at 3.25 hp (which it ain't). The 220 WILL pull a 3/8 20" bar but likes a 16" better. It seems to have an out 70cc torque but with, of course, way less chain speed. The 180 seems to have about 50cc torque but again, a lot less chain speed. The Makita has a slight edge over the 180 in power. The Echo performs like a 13 amp saw.

 

[zogger]

Nice review Philbert!

Maybe some day they will have a hybrid model, able to work with batteries or plugged in.

 

[wde_1978]

Nice Thread Philbert!

Not Oregon electric saw related , but Oregon PowerSharp related!
I just got a reply from Blount, Inc on my question whether there is a PowerSharp kit compatible with big chainsaws (I obviously asked for my Dolmar's PS6400/PS7900), this is the answer:
... Unfortunately, we do not offer the PowerSharp System for larger saws. The PowerSharp chain is based on our 3/8”, .050 gauge, LOW PROFILE chassis chain which is designed for the smaller cc units. With the design of the current chain, when subjected to larger cc’s and more horsepower, the chains strength is compromised. ...

Shame, would like to give PowerSharp a try!

 

[Philbert]

Nice Thread Philbert! . . . I just got a reply from Blount, Inc on my question whether there is a PowerSharp kit compatible with big chainsaws

Thanks! I like the PowerSharp chain - there are links to some related threads in my first post.

Oregon has been 'promising' a .325 pitch version of it for a few years now, but I have still have not seen it. It was interesting to find out that in the 'old' version of PowerSharp chain (30+ years ago) it was made in a wide range of sizes. It is not compatible with the current version, but sometimes you see some stuff show up on eBay.

Philbert

 

[1Alpha1]

Nice thread and good info.

 

[Philbert]

Maybe some day they will have a hybrid model, able to work with batteries or plugged in.

A hybrid feature is an interesting idea. With a battery saw, one would think that you could have a 120 volt transformer that would deliver enough juice to run the 36 - 40 volt saw. The transformer could sit on the ground, and feed in through a 'dummy' block that fit in the battery compartment. Or maybe you would want to keep some of the weight on the saw to maintain its balance.

Going the other way, having a battery pack to power a 15 amp, 120 volt saw would be problematic. It would probably be simpler, and more versatile, to use one of those compact, Honda generators.

The thing that a lot of people don't appreciate about a corded electric saw is that they are so darn convenient: plug it in, and check the bar oil now and then. Works like a circular saw or other construction type electric tool. No gas to mix, no pulling the rope, no flooding, no cursing, virtually no maintenance, etc. You still have to keep the chain sharp, like with any saw, but the PowerSharp option takes most of the work out of that. They keep working as long as the grid is up, and the better ones have a lot of power. ***Plus, this model is one-third the cost of their battery powered saw, and less expensive than most decent gas saws!!!

It's easy to think of situations where one of these would not work. But for a lot of people, cutting firewood up to 16 inches diameter, within 100 feet of their house, garage, etc., these saws are great. I have had one for 25 years and love them. I would always have one in my '2 saw plan'.

Philbert

 

[BeatCJ]

I have an ancient Remngton electric, it's great for when I get a chunk that is cut too long for my stove. Electrics are really convenient, too bad they come with the shortly cord. For many people, I suspect it is best that the device cord doesn't reach the bar. Extension cords are relatively easily replaced.

I really like your "test stand" way safer than using my foot. Electrics

 

[sawfun]

I had an old Milwaukee electric with a lot of torque and would pull regular 3/8 on a 16" hardnose bar well, but it was slow. It was a bit below the mse220 in torque but quite a bit above the Makita, mse180, or Echo 3.25 hp.

 

[Philbert]

I have a light duty Remington that is really part of a pole saw. Would not hold up to any heavy use, but OK for pruning when detached from the pole.

I have a couple of older Sears electrics (12 amps) that I like and that perform well, but I don't think that they are comparable to the current Sears models.

The Makita and Oregon models I compared above have a lot more 'grunt' than my other ones.

I have not tried the STIHL or Husqvarna electrics. Maybe we need an electric GTG?

Philbert

 

[sawfun]

Agreed on the electric gtg. I had an older Sears 11 or 12 amp and it ran .325 but was next to useless. It seems the Husky and Makita look to be the same saw with the Husky costing a lot more. Philbert, if you were closer, I have the Stihls to compare with. But still, nothing today touches the mse220, not even close. Mine was originally purchased for ice sculpting. Too bad we cant try Lee's e30.