Hi all, just found this sight a few days ago and have been reading up. Anyway I'm looking for a new saw and have narrowed it down to the Husky 372XP and the Husky 365. Is the 372XP worth the additional $50? My goal here is to have add a 24" saw to my current lineup, which consists of a 16" 330EVL and a 20" 550EVL, Echos.(they are teenagers) Which brings me to my next question. The 550 is losing spark after it warms up, the saw runs and cuts good but will shutdown after 3/4 tank of gas and won't fire back up until she's cooled off. Any idea's as to what the problems might be? Thanks.
New saw old saw questions
- Thread starter trimmmed
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ricksvar
ArboristSite Operative
Hi trimmmed,
Welcome to Arborist site!
Every now and then a saw is made that is a exceptional performer(out of the box-stock).I consider the 372xp one of that class.I can't say it's worth the extra $50.00 compared to a 365,never used one.That's a valu judgement you have to make.I will say my 372xp exceded my expectitions.
I'll leave the saw problem solving to the repair folks.
Best of service with your new saw,
Rick
Welcome to Arborist site!
Every now and then a saw is made that is a exceptional performer(out of the box-stock).I consider the 372xp one of that class.I can't say it's worth the extra $50.00 compared to a 365,never used one.That's a valu judgement you have to make.I will say my 372xp exceded my expectitions.
I'll leave the saw problem solving to the repair folks.
Best of service with your new saw,
Rick
I just bought a 365 a week ago... I've run about 4 tanks of fuel through it and have dealt with some oak and younger maple. Was totally satisfied with the saw's performance thus far.
I'm not a pro like some guys here... just giving you my opinion based on my use of a 365. Judging from what you want from the saw (24" bar), I'd hazard a guess that the 372XP would be a better bet with that bar length... unless someone else proves me wrong on this...
I'd browse some of the messages, and even do a search using the model numbers you gave, and you should come up with some stuff to read.
Happy sawing!
I'm not a pro like some guys here... just giving you my opinion based on my use of a 365. Judging from what you want from the saw (24" bar), I'd hazard a guess that the 372XP would be a better bet with that bar length... unless someone else proves me wrong on this...
I'd browse some of the messages, and even do a search using the model numbers you gave, and you should come up with some stuff to read.
Happy sawing!
Tony Snyder
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm assuminig you know that the 365 and 372 are on basically the same chassis, thus similar in weight. If you are going to run a 24 inch bar, I would buy the 72cc saw. You will not notice the $50 over the life of the saw.
The 372 is one of the really sweet running saws.
I sell them as 2171 Jonsereds. $625 (But I do not sell over the internet, and do not ship things)
The obvious question on the 550; have you checked for spark with a test plug while the thing is hot and won't start?
The 372 is one of the really sweet running saws.
I sell them as 2171 Jonsereds. $625 (But I do not sell over the internet, and do not ship things)
The obvious question on the 550; have you checked for spark with a test plug while the thing is hot and won't start?
gh-85
ArboristSite Lurker
YOUR SAW PROBLEM
If your saw doesn't have any spark at all after getting hot, but runs good while cold, it can plain and simply be only one logical answer, infact I've run into this problem a few times myself!!! It's you coil... Possibly a loose spark-plug wire where it goes into your coil, just see if you can pull on it a little to see if it pops out... Check for ohms on your multi function volt meter and if its good should read about .001 resistance while touching part of coil with one of your wires and touching the other wire to the wire down inside you spark-plug cap... Now if this is the problem all you have to do is reglue it back down inside of your coil and to do this, just go to you local Auto Zone and go to the cement-glue section and get the type of cement that can be used on rubber, plastic, and metal "I think its one of the long drie kinds"... You'll need to clean all of the hardener off of you wire before applying it to the wire so it will stick like it needs to... After doing this and knowing what your resistance is suppost to be all you need to do is plug your wire back in and makesure its got a good connection by going by you resistance reading then take you mixed glue compound by putting it on a flat head screw driver and simply wipe it down in around your wire, all along forcing it down in around to makesure its down in there good... Make sure to hold it down in the coil during its anitial setup period and watch your meter all along to assure that it doesn't loose its connection... Let it drie over night atleast, maybe even a day before attempting to put it back on your saw... If this isn't the problem then its your coil itself and it will have to be replaced... The slightest looseness in your wire will cause this, because has good connection while cold, because of shrinkage and as it gets hot it expands and allows the wire to loose its connection... Well hope this wasn't too confusing and will help you solve your problem...
Greg
If your saw doesn't have any spark at all after getting hot, but runs good while cold, it can plain and simply be only one logical answer, infact I've run into this problem a few times myself!!! It's you coil... Possibly a loose spark-plug wire where it goes into your coil, just see if you can pull on it a little to see if it pops out... Check for ohms on your multi function volt meter and if its good should read about .001 resistance while touching part of coil with one of your wires and touching the other wire to the wire down inside you spark-plug cap... Now if this is the problem all you have to do is reglue it back down inside of your coil and to do this, just go to you local Auto Zone and go to the cement-glue section and get the type of cement that can be used on rubber, plastic, and metal "I think its one of the long drie kinds"... You'll need to clean all of the hardener off of you wire before applying it to the wire so it will stick like it needs to... After doing this and knowing what your resistance is suppost to be all you need to do is plug your wire back in and makesure its got a good connection by going by you resistance reading then take you mixed glue compound by putting it on a flat head screw driver and simply wipe it down in around your wire, all along forcing it down in around to makesure its down in there good... Make sure to hold it down in the coil during its anitial setup period and watch your meter all along to assure that it doesn't loose its connection... Let it drie over night atleast, maybe even a day before attempting to put it back on your saw... If this isn't the problem then its your coil itself and it will have to be replaced... The slightest looseness in your wire will cause this, because has good connection while cold, because of shrinkage and as it gets hot it expands and allows the wire to loose its connection... Well hope this wasn't too confusing and will help you solve your problem...
Greg
Ok, spark is completely gone now. When using the continuity tester I get no reading between the coil and end of spark plug wire. Is it kaput? There is another part located under the coil called a "CD ignition module" Is there a way to test this and should you order both? Are there any online sources for Echo parts? Hopefully parts are still available. Thanks
