New Stihl MS250 odd idle/throttle issue

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B.C.

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So, I got these two old saws I picked up, and MS250 and an 023. Both of them had crap original carburetors that didn't run well even with fresh oem walbro kits in them. I slapped 2 new china carbs on them and they ran better but not perfect still. I went and got a brand new Walbro WT 215 from local dealer and slapped that on, definitely made a small improvement on both, but still not perfect.

As far as I know, a saw shouldn't significantly change idle speed when you tip it sideways, like a couple hundred rpms seems acceptable, more than that, probably a carb or air leak issue seemed to always be the consensus.

It seems I've also learned that some saws have their fuel pickup in one spot or another, and if you say have the pickup sitting against the right rear of the tank and tip it counter-clockwise, it might speed up because it's not sitting in the fuel. This is kind of unavoidable as far as I know. Generally though I will position the pickup there at the bottom right rear of the tank as normally I flip the saw clockwise for a side cut more often, but I do both when limbing generally. Anyway I filled the tank of each full to avoid that being a possibility.

What surprised me is that the brand new MS250 actually ran worse than the old one I've been working on and scratching my head, and it seemed to behave pretty much exactly the same way, only worse. I realized this as I went to use it today for the first time, also bought it today. Filled it up, used the stihl mix oil btw, and let it idle for a good 10-15 minutes. Figured limbing a medium pine tree should be a good first run for a very light workout. No bucking, just limbing small limbs off. Cut really good, love the power of these, but I noticed as my joy faded that at least 2 times as I was going along when I tipped it sideways for a cut it would almost stall. I was really surprised as I thought it was gonna run perfect. Thought it was a fluke maybe the first time and kept going but it did it again, I recall at least 2x. Then I was like wtf? Sat it on the trunk and let it run upright for a bit and would tip it periodically. It didn't do it every time but once in a while it would really drop off, this was tipping it clockwise btw, like you normally would for a felling cut. I didn't like that one bit. It was idling really high already at around 3400 to 3600 so for it to drop down to 2k or less and almost stall that just seems unacceptable. (I had a Stihl rpm meter handy, always in my pocket). Manual says it's supposed to idle at 2800. I don't think dealer touched it and there is no L screw on the Zama carb. Kinda irrelevant anyway though because point is the older one I have does it too, but not as bad. I was chasing air leaks on the old one and spent a LOT of time on it, even yamabonded the damn boot to the cylinder, brand new walbro carb, and did a pressure test, which it passed. But after experiencing the exact same thing with a brand new one, and the 023 that is a similar design does it too, I'm really wondering wth is going on here. Is that just how they run?!? Its seems like they must be designed this way somehow or another, possibly in how the cylinder is designed, I don't know but its definitely one of the weirdest thing I've encountered on chainsaws yet.
 
I thought that when the idle changed when you tipped the saw over with a full tank of fuel (pickup guaranteed to be in fuel) it meant it was set too rich on the low screw...

My 250 did something similar but it turned out to be some fine wood dust in behind the metering pump diaphragm on a zama carb (they don’t have the breather hole getting air from inside the filter like walbro).
 
Well the one was brand new right "out of the box" so to speak. Had Zama carb with no L adjustment screw at all and there was barely any dust in there as I limbed one medium sized tree.

You could be right about the L screw being to rich will cause idle change when tipped on most saws, and I would like to know if that is true because it would be useful to know for other saws.

This brand new MS250 though had no L screw that was visible and I kinda doubt they tuned it too rich, it was a real screamer. I DID mix my gas a bit rich at about 40:1 rather than the 50:1 but I don't see that making such a huge difference and causing such dramatic run issues. I also really found myself wondering if they just behave that way, or I figured there must be others out there that have 250s that would say theirs runs just great with no issues whatsoever, but I was curious if there were others that have seen the same issue but just run it anyway.
 
I've got a ms250 that does funny throttle things too. I'm wondering if you don't have an air leak in the crank seals, or in the base of the crankcase.

I want to light my ms250 on fire. Just for fun.
 
I'd be curious to know if yours passes a pressure/vac test as well. All you need is a good thick piece of rubber, you can usually find a good size square in plumbing section of hardware stores. Cut a couple pieces and slide behind the muffler and between carb, and then I took a compression tester line and took the shrader valve out and hook to mity vac. Works great and it's relatively easy on most saws.
 
Well the one was brand new right "out of the box" so to speak. Had Zama carb with no L adjustment screw at all and there was barely any dust in there as I limbed one medium sized tree.

You could be right about the L screw being to rich will cause idle change when tipped on most saws, and I would like to know if that is true because it would be useful to know for other saws.

This brand new MS250 though had no L screw that was visible and I kinda doubt they tuned it too rich, it was a real screamer. I DID mix my gas a bit rich at about 40:1 rather than the 50:1 but I don't see that making such a huge difference and causing such dramatic run issues. I also really found myself wondering if they just behave that way, or I figured there must be others out there that have 250s that would say theirs runs just great with no issues whatsoever, but I was curious if there were others that have seen the same issue but just run it anyway.
My ms250 has the low adjustment kinda separate from the high. Its a little access hole in the black part of the handle. Just mentioning incase you over looked it.

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Here is a pic off net
389b0ffdba4753d09bf33ce358ab3bff.jpg


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