Oldman47
ArboristSite Guru
Lubriplate is good for sliding surfaces. I have no idea how it is formulated but we use it on bearing surfaces that really don't move very fast, never on anything like a wheel bearing.
New Super Split HD Owner!!
- Thread starter USMC615
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Thanks. I just took a look. I see there are tabs for ordering parts and service videos. Sweet!!
I wou
l'd think WD 40 or PB Blaster would work just fine in this application. That Lubriplate looks like da bomb, but it is super pricey.
It is pretty pricey,i looked on ebay and amazon. My neighbor swears by it though. But he said its more for the open gears of the rack and pinion. I sprayed a tiny bit onto a piece of paper, and it has an almost foamy texture to it. When the weather gets a bit nicer here, im gonna clean the rack and pinion and give it a try. I think i will use the pb or wd on bearings though.
sunfish
Fish Head
I think I was accused of working for SS shortly after I got mine. LOL Don't worry about it bubba!
USMC615
Wood's Tougher Than Woodpecker Lips...
I think I was accused of working for SS shortly after I got mine. LOL Don't worry about it bubba!
Trust me, zero worries here...got bigger and better things to do. Just trying to be decent to the man. You can stick a fork in this one, it's a done deal. And I ain't into 'beating dead horses' nohow.
I asked a simple question why wouldn't you want to be decent in your reply? I ask the question because if in deed you were affiliated with Super Split then all of your comments should get a little closer scrutiny and somewhat taken with a grain of salt. Would not expect you to put down a product that you have a vested interest in. I never once said anything bad about this machine, just your unusual fascination with it. I believe you when you say you don't work for them but still find it very odd that you and Cneb5, that joined at the same time you did a couple of weeks ago, have made it your mission in life to keep this thread bumped to the top. I don't know about the rest of the board but after the 40th post by you in this thread, I am pretty sure you like your splitter. The next fifty stating the same thing tend to be a little annoying when you are subscribed to this thread. On a final note I hope you and your buddy get years of great service out of your machines.
The only thing that annoys me is no pictures.
I've read some of this thread but certainly can not say all of the posts. For the majority of splitting the SS is a very impressive machine. However, in thirty five years of splitting wood, the SS required more fiddling with to get the rack to return than sometimes seems worth it. [I've never fiddled with a hydraulic other then replacing a worn out detent handle once, and a detent valve another time. Replaced an eighteen year old briggs with a Honda. Turned out it was bad gas, the engine carb was gummed up.] Pulling the rack out of the SS machine is simple but time consuming. Much of this is a learning curve. I took things a part that did not need to be, as in separating the rack from the carriage. I replaced bearings, and found another backup bearing (cam roller) locally. Yesterday I spent some time getting the rack to return before starting. Most importantly I talked with Paul this summer. He said it is mostly about tracking, meaning adjusting the top bearing side to side in very small adjustments. Yesterday I rolled the rack out by hand. Dropped a loop of rope over the wedge and push plate to hold the rack out. Cleaned the beam, under the push plate (I use an old Japanese style pull saw blade), and a piece of wood lath to get between the bump stops a good 6" where the bearing rides. Propped the top bearing up with an L bar and plastic wedge (chain saw cutting wedge) to clean and free up the bearing. Pulled the rack out by hand a few times. Did not return well. The carriage was not tracking straight and rubbing on the edge of the beam. Tapped the top bearing bracket sideways, and repeat. To far, carriage rubbed opposite diagonals of carriage. Tap it back to the sweet spot. Paul said elevating the wedge end of the machine with a 2"x block would also help. After ten minutes or so of cleaning/adjusting I dabbed a spot of grease on the rack and started splitting and smiling. Point is, plan to spend time to repeatedly clean and fiddle with it. There is a bit more fussing to it than a hydraulic splitter which really has none at all. If the rack is not returning, I'm not splitting wood, and at times, that has really pissed me off to spend hours trying to figure it out. It seems to be a combination of breaking in, and learning curve, and has been working better. This machine has about 40+ cords run through it, so not much. Hope this is helpful in some way to someone else.
jrider
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sandhill, thank you very much for your post. I have sold over 100 cords the last 2 years and have been seriously thinking about getting one of these machines ( I currently have an I&O with a 4 way) and it has always seemed too good to be true that there was no information regarding durability, wear and tear, maintenance, etc.
For those who have run 100's of cords through theirs, how have they held up? What kind of down times and maintenance costs have you encountered?
For those who have run 100's of cords through theirs, how have they held up? What kind of down times and maintenance costs have you encountered?
sunfish
Fish Head
Sandhill, have you tried spraying a little wd40 on top of the rack? That's all I do if the returned slows down on mine and then it retracts quicker than it comes out. Also no grease on top of the rack, gotta keep it clean.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Held up well. Will probably still be splitting wood when I am pushing up daisies.
Downtime: bugger all, 10 mins here and there dealing with a broken belt or free-ing up a bearing or extracting splinters that might get caught under the carriage.
Maintenance: usual on the engine, at the end of each season I also take all bearings off and put them in a big jar of whatever heavy oil I can find laying around, grease the flywheel bearings, check the rack and pinion.
Spares: belts, maybe even a spare clutch, rubber bumpers maybe.
In use: learn to read a round like you would with an axe. Read the manual in advance. I keep a small paint scraper handy to clear the beam of sappy crud from time to time. grease the rack and pinion teeth every few hours or whenever it feels or sounds like it could do with it - you'll know what I mean when you start using and get used to it.
Really, there's SFA that can go wrong on these (if they are well built and a SS is), and it doesn't take long for anyone even slightly mechanically minded to, if they wanted (and I really suggest they do when first get it) pull the cover off, learn what is going on with the engagement mechanism, why it is done that way, how the carriage is set up, etc. Do a bunch of 'what happens if I do this' type of tweaks and learn if you have to.
It really isn't complicated. There's not much to it.
USMC615
Wood's Tougher Than Woodpecker Lips...
Folks, here's an attempt at some pics...seeing cross-eyed 'bout now from this laptop, pulling out what little bit of hair left, and if the truth be known just ill as hell about trying to figure this pic stuff out, Lol. I just picked some random stuff to see if I could even pull this off. If they come out wrong or whatever, I apologize and I'll delete the post and try again tomorrow.
Attachments
![IMG_1014[2].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/94/94282-4cd4e283182e0455e9488364e50c15a4.jpg)
I can only speak for myself, but USMC and myself, have strikingly similar stories, as to how long we have been waiting to obtain one of these machines. I obsessed for years. When i searched the web for used or new, this forum always got a hit. So after i found and bought a used SS, i decided to sign up, to try to learn more, and there is alot of things i didnt know. This is the first thread i read after joining, and my need to learn more about it, keeps me coming back. There are many threads that have thousands of reply's and hundreds that contribute, and they all started somewhere. I have no agenda, and no affiliation with super split either. But there is something special about this machine, that peeks interest. I am a driveway warrior, looking to make a few bucks on the side, as easily as possible. I hope my SS lives up to my fantasy. My lifes goal is to retire, collect a big fat pension, and enjoy some grandkids someday. Could care less about where this thread is, as long as it shares good information.
I have not done this but it makes perfect sense when you look at the engagement mechanism because the edge of a piece of flat stock drags on top of the rack on return. Grease would certainly collect to much junk.
I have a question. How close does the ram or rack get to your wedge. My HD will get within 1 inch of the wedge. But my SE only comes within 1.75 inches. Some times it doesn't finish the split on stringy wood.
tappa talk samsung note 2
tappa talk samsung note 2
sunfish
Fish Head
The friction on the top of the rack is usually the cause of slow return. WD-40 really works here for me.
Also, instead of using a rope on the wedge to hold the rack out for maintenance, pull the rack out by hand then pull up on the handle to engage the rack & pinion. This will hold the rack in place.
Mine will release sometimes and retract using this method. I pull the rack out, engage the handle and then take a pair of vice grips to the rod to hold it up.
USMC615
Wood's Tougher Than Woodpecker Lips...
I was curious the same when we put the HD together and wanted to see how consistent the rack travel was... I held about a 16" piece of a spruce 2x4 stud on edge and engaged the rack and it slightly indented the wedge side of the 2x about an 1/8" thick, if that. It made the same indention half a dozen times so mine gets within an 1 3/8" or so consistently.
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