New to me Bobcat 763- Questions

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NWnewguy

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I just got a 763 that was previously a rental, with 1500 hours on it and would like to swap most of the fluids and filters. I haven't been able to find a owners manual for the thing to figure out capacities etc. I can understand why the maintenence manual costs a boat load of cash, but the owners manual? I was really surprised that bobcat doesn't have them on their website in PDF.

It has the Kubota 2203 engine in it and I was wondering what oil some of you guys were using. Has anyone already got the cross reference for the fram oil filter? I have also read a bunch about people using 10w-30 engine oil in the hydro tank. This doens't seem like a great idea to me. I thought that the detergents in the engine oil would not be good for it, also the engine oil doesn't have anti-frothing agent added to it.

If anyone has some lessons learned to save me some problems and not have to learn hard lessons myself, I would be greatly appreciative. If I could get the pictures down to the right size I would post them. I will keep trying. Thanks everyone.
 
If I could get the pictures down to the right size I would post them. I will keep trying. Thanks everyone.

Congrats on the new toy.

Easy way to do pictures it to open a free photobucket.com account then upload your pictures there. It doesn't matter what size they are as they will automatically be resized. Then you just copy and paste the line for the picture you want into your thread. Simple.

Added bonus is that when you want to use that same picture somewhere else on the web, all you have to do is copy and paste that same [img] tag. No reloading pictures.
 
Call your nearest Bobcat dealer for the specs on the oil you should use in the hydro system. Then, call your local Kubota dealer to see what they recommend for the engine oil.
Jeff
 
If I could get the pictures down to the right size I would post them. I will keep trying. Thanks everyone.

Do what gr8scott said about the pictures. Use photobucket.

Open two browser windows. Meaning have ArboristSite open to the reply screen in one window and in the other have PhotoBucket open. This way you can click back and forth between the windows to copy / paste etc. without having to open and close each site for all of the steps. It's really easy after you do it a couple of times. I will help you until you get it! So, here we go. Get your two browser windows opened up and get started.

1) Click on the "Upload Images & Video" icon
2) Select photo you want to upload and wait for PhotoBucket to upload it
3) Click on "Save & get Links" icon
4) Left click the "IMG Code" box (it will turn blue)
5) Right click and select "Copy"
6) Go to your reply post and right click paste
7) Preview your post and it will should show the picture, if you like it then hit submit reply
 
CAPACITIES:

Cooling System................................ 13 qts.

Fuel............................................... 14 gals.

Engine Oil W/Filter............................ 7.5 qts.

Hydraulic Reservoir........................... 24.0 qts.

Hydraulic/Hydrostatic System............. 8.5 gals.

Chaincase Reservoir.......................... 9 gals.


I have the service manual so if you need anything else just ask.

The manual that I have covers:

S/N 512212001 thru 512249999
S/N 512440001 thru 512449999
S/N 512612001 thru 512619999

Mine is a 1995
 
You should check the S/N though. I think they made a newer manual and mine is the older one.
 
I bought a used 743 and picked up the service manual from ebay. The parts manual has been marginally useful - not sure I would buy it again.

Make sure you have a jack capable of lifting one end of the machine and jack stands to support all 4 corners - you will have to adjust the steering levers and it has to be off the ground to do this.

The bobcat dealer I have in Manassas, Va. is awesome - very helpful and good parts prices. Find your local dealer and build a relationship with him - older machines tend to need a regular stream of cheap parts.

Watch the wiring - the insulation on these older machines is brittle - I have been dealing with minor electrical repairs lately, the good news is that the wiring is mostly easy to get to.
 
congrats on the new toy. Those are good little machines. Biggest key to ongoing performance IMO is regular service a greasing, and keeping them clean, especially around the coolers/radiator. Also, resist the urge to put foam filled tires on it if it doesn't already have them, unless punctures are a big issue for your type of work. Personally I would keep a spare on the trailer with you, and run air filled just for the added traction if it is an option.
 
I had a 763 for a year and a half. They are good little machines. I would run a good 15w40 motor oil. I like mobil delvac.
 
Let's give this a try

This should be a picture of the 763, hopefully. It was getting dark, so it isn't a great picture. I kind of like the sunbelt green better than the Bobcat white, not too thrilled with the stickers though.
sideview.jpg
 
More info

I contacted Kubota today and they said that a CF rated 10w-30 is best for the engine or 10w-40. I think that most people are still using the 15w-40 though. I may try the Mobile 1 10w-30 as it is CF rated and it has always done great in all of my cars. I checked the price on the Hydro oil from Bobcat, $79 for 5 gallons! The filter is a little over $50 as well. I am glad that it is only recommended every 1000 hours. I have been tooling around in the thing this weekend and it works good for skidding small to medium size trees.
 
trust me when I tell you that it has had 10W-40 in it it's entire life.........I'll look tomorrow to see if I see any service entries that catch my eye. From the pic, looks like it is time for a new cutting edge on the bucket as well.
 
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If i recall, there is no commercially available 10w40 Diesel oil available. (I don't have my reference material available here, though). Diesel oils are normally 10W30, 15W40, the old straight weights, or arctic blends (0w40, etc). 10w40 is a gasoline grade exclusively (per memory)

My Deere Diesel skidsteer calls for 15W40 in the hydraulic system.

Also, Diesel oils all have had antifoaming agents in them since the introduction of the Navistar / Cat HEUI Diesel fuel system in the early 90s. That fuel system is about as high tech / high pressure / high flow as you'll find, much higher flow and pressure than a skid steer hydraulic system. The API added antiroam to the specs prior to its introduction (1994).

Alan
 
Finn, I was under the impression after talking to the Kubota guy that as long as the oil was CF rated (which includes most weight of Mobil 1), it was good to go. That was why I was planning on using the 10w-30 or 10w-40. It doesn't get very hot or very cold hear so I didn't see a need to use the 15w oil. I would be glad to hear more if my assumptions are off. Thanks for all the input from everyone.
 
If you have a TSC near you, they have their own private labeled hydro oil for low $. I'm pretty sure it lists the compatibility on the label.
 
Finn, I was under the impression after talking to the Kubota guy that as long as the oil was CF rated (which includes most weight of Mobil 1), it was good to go. That was why I was planning on using the 10w-30 or 10w-40. It doesn't get very hot or very cold hear so I didn't see a need to use the 15w oil. I would be glad to hear more if my assumptions are off. Thanks for all the input from everyone.

CF rated oil is pretty old, low tech stuff, probably from the 90s. The latest technology is CJ-4. It is backwards compatable & is the only oil I would use.

There is a chart on the API site with more detail.

Try www.apicj-4.org/2009-ENGINE_OIL_GUIDE.pdf.

If I messed up the link, just google API oil classification, or try an abbreviated version of the link

Alan
 
not too thrilled with the stickers though.
sideview.jpg

Use a heat gun to heat up the stickers (hair dryer might work), then peel them right off. If any glue residue, use a 'goo gone' type of adhesive remover. Easy peasy japanesey.
 
CI 4 oil has a little better lubricity in it than the CJ 4. The CJ 4 oil is for the new emissions rated engines. It took some of the zinc and phosphorous out of it which causes wear on camshafts and other parts quicker.
 
CJ4 is a lower ash oil, so you'll see less hard carbon deposits on the piston, which means less bore polishing and less ring wear.

Like I said, CJ4 is newer technology and is backwards compatable.

I,ve never seen documented, hard evidence that its use leads to more wear of any components.

Alan
 

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