"New" toy: Stihl 009 with OLD gas

[rallen]

I just acquired a Stihl 009L that had been sitting around for a number of years with old gas in it. When I opened the fuel cap, the smell of shellac was overwhelming (about a 1/2" at the bottom of the tank). Out of curiosity, I poured out the old fuel and put new in just to see if I could get it to catch, and while I did not get it to start, I did here it catch on a stroke or two, so I am optomistic I have spark. Compression feels great.

I assume I should replace the fuel filter, and then, since most likely it still won't start, or even if it does, remove the carb and clean it out. I was looking at the service manual and it recommends replacing the carb gaskets between the carb and the crankcase. Is this really necessary or can I get by with some sort of sealant and re-use what is there? I am sure I can find a set of gaskets on line if not at the local Stihl dealer, just wondering if I need to get them before I take it apart. My guess is the straining screen has lots of shellac on it and needs a good soaking, and the passage ways jetted out. Anything else I should check?

One other question: the saw came with a 12" bar and chain, which is serviceable but a little rough. There is a dealer around here who is having a 1/2 off moving sale on anything he has in stock, and while he doesn't have a 14" bar and chain in stock for that saw, he does have a 16" bar and green chain at half-off. Think the saw can handle that size bar and chain (3/8" Picco)? Or should I bite the bullet and find a 14" at regular price?

Thanks for the advice in advance. This is my second "project" saw: my first one was a Stihl 029 that had a cracked gas tank that I ended up completely dissassembling to replace it, with the help from people on this forum...was fun, and runs great. The 009L is going to be used for limbing, AND for when a small tree falls across the drive when I am two hours away and my wife insists that she is going to cut-it herself so she can get down the 1/2 mile drive! But that is another story....

Robert

 

[Guido Salvage]

Robert,

Welcome aboard! I had an 009 but sold it last year before I ever had a chance to get it up and running. At 37cc's your saw will probably be happiest with a 12" bar, I would go no more than 14" if it was mine.

You are aware that we are having a GTG (Get ToGether) next Saturday in South Hill where you will get a chance to run that saw? See the thread above in the "Sticky" section.

Gary

 

[sefh3]

Welcome aboard.
If the price is right, 1/2 off, I would buy a 12" and 14" bar and chain. Buy one get one free.... They are most happy with a 12" but do pull a 14" if need pretty good. I would replace the fuel line, filter, and put a carb kit in it. It sounds like your close to getting it to run. I would also throw a new plug in it too.

 

[rallen]

moving backwards??

So...today when I got home from work I thought I would give it a try before dissassembling, and sure enough, it started, and ran for about five minutes, but then seemed to start losing power and then died altogether, and would not re-start. My suspicion is either a fuel clog or air leak in the line, and so decided to take it apart.

When I opened the air filter, there were two tubes: one black, going directly into the carb (fuel?), and one clear that was disintegrating going from a nipple on the front face of the compartment penetrating the case headed towards the bar. Is this the tank vent line?

The fuel line looked ok, but based on the condition of the other line, I should probably replace both. How do I get to them? I see the fuel line disappearing into the case but don't completely understand its route. Similarly, I see the nipple on the front for one end of the other tube, but can't see where it goes once it penetrates the case. Is there a special tubing I should use for replacing both lines? Do I need to order these from the dealer, or can I just buy generic plastic tubing?

Finally, adding insult to injury, I thought I would check the plug, and of course, not wanting to pull on the wire, thought I would use a pliers to gently pull the plug boot off. Of course, the boot came off...and then came COMPLETELY off the wire, taking the metal spring with it. I believe I can take the starter cover off and slide the boot back on, attach the spring, and then with a pliers pull it back into the boot, but I was mad at myself for being so impatient and using the pliers instead of just gently twisting back and forth.

When it did run, it seemed to be firing evenly. I took the carb out and did just a quick cleaning with carb cleaner, including opening the diaphragm and spraying the strainer, as well as the ports I could see. Put it back together but it still doesn't start, but it could just be the fuel filter is plugged, or the line is cracked, or who knows.

So....

1. What do I use for the fuel and "mystery" lines, and how do I fish them to where they go?
2. Where do you recommend ordering a carb kit? Looking at the parts diagram, I have a zama carb, part C1S-S1C.
3. Am I correct in thinking the initial settings for the hi/lo adjustment should be 1 turn open? One of the screws was probably only 5/8 open.

Thanks!

 

[rallen]

Making progress: starts, won't stay running, NEED HELP!

OK so...repairs done so far:

1. Replaced fuel and vent lines, and fuel filter. BOTH lines were rotten, and probably why the saw stopped the first time. I figured out the obvious as to how they are routed once I spent a little time looking at the fuel and vent lines.
2. Removed carb and cleaned it out but did not have a carb kit (yet). Removed hi/lo adjustment screws and cleaned with carb cleaner. Removed diaphragm plate and sprayed carb cleaner into strainer but did not remove. Reassembled carb. Opened hi/lo screws one full turn each.
3. Removed reed block and cleaned it out.
4. Reinstalled carb.
5. Clipped off end of spark plug lead and re-installed the spark plug spring and boot. It is a little tight but seems to be OK once in place.
6. Plug looked great so just blew it off and reinstalled.

Now...

1. Starts up on full choke, revs up to speed and then dies like out of gas.
2. Won't start again immediately, but if I let it sit for a minute or so, then will start and again act like out of gas. Sometimes I can get it to run a little longer if I give it more choke.

Since it ran before I messed with the carburetor, and since it probably died the first time, before I did any of the repairs, because the fuel line cracked, my suspicion is that the problem now is due to me dissassembling the carb. I double-checked the new fuel line, and it is not kinked or pinched. Same with the vent line. Just to make sure, I cracked open the fuel cap to see if it was a vent problem and it made no difference.

Do I have an air leak somewhere? I tightened all the screws pretty well, but since I did remove the carb and the reed block do I need to put sealant and/or replace those gaskets? Is this a sign that the fuel pump isn't working and that a carb kit is the next thing to do? I read other 009 posts about a warped reed block, but I have the model that has the reed block held by two screws recessed into the phenolic block on opposite corners, and then the two carb screws at the other two corners snugging it down so I don't think warpage is the problem. I don't have a vacuum tester or means to test for leaks so it is trial and error for me.

What puzzles me is why it worked before I dissassembled, and now it doesn't. On the other hand, considering that the fuel lines fell apart when touched and/or when I first started it up, perhaps the carb diaphragm has the same issue and needs replacement.

Suggestions? When it did start up, it started right away, and sounded great, for the 10 seconds it ran. Seems to be plenty of compression.


PERPLEXED...(a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!).

Robert

 

[rallen]

Update

Finally completed the repairs. Besides what was listed above, I also:
1. Purchased the carb kit and rebuilt it.
2. Replaced the oil pump diaphragm.
3. Had to play alot with the choke slide to get it to choke properly for cold starts.
4. On my saw, the L screw had to be opened almost 2 turns to idle properly and not die when the trigger was pulled. the H screw ended up being at about 5/8.

See my post about 009 hard starting cold. Make sure you dissassemble this slide and clean out the little pin hole at the end of the shutter: the design creates a little cup to hold dirt that clogs, and I think the air rushing through this hole helps it seat. Also make sure the end not covering the carb lies flat against the cover when closed.

 

[rallen]

Finally completed the repairs. Besides what was listed above, I also:
1. Purchased the carb kit and rebuilt it.
2. Replaced the oil pump diaphragm.
3. Had to play alot with the choke slide to get it to choke properly for cold starts.
4. On my saw, the L screw had to be opened almost 2 turns to idle properly and not die when the trigger was pulled. the H screw ended up being at about 5/8.

See my post about 009 hard starting cold. Make sure you dissassemble this slide and clean out the little pin hole at the end of the shutter: the design creates a little cup to hold dirt that clogs, and I think the air rushing through this hole helps it seat. Also make sure the end not covering the carb lies flat against the cover when closed.

AND...if it still doesn't start cold a warped filter cover may very well be the culprit, even if it looks OK. Finally ended up buying a new cover this month and now it starts right up.