@PaulB84 ,
For me the 201 back handle saw is not an arborist saw but one of the best limbing saws in it's class. What is interesting is that in the US it is in the "Farmer class saws" area on the Stihl homepage and in Europe and as far as I have seen in the rest of the world in the "Pro class saws" are. This is what I am talking about.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms201cem/
One of the major problems with AT/MT saws and air leaks is that until problems are noticeable the saws have kept compensating and compensating and the user never notices anything although problems are already accumulating. And by the time the user notices something, major damage is rather typical.
On the other hand classic non auto adjustable carb saws expose problems quite quickly and even noticable to the beginner with the saw "not running right". Of course there is never a garentee that the user will do the right thing and turn off the saw and have it repaired. At around 13500 rpm the time frame to stop so that everything is unharmed is rather limited. So continuing cutting up the rest of the truckload is not a smart thing to do.
Further having to adjust your saw for every change in air temperature is simply not reallity. Millions if not billions of trees have been cut down without having the carb ever adjusted between summer and winter and the saws never burned up prematurely. Also logger members have mentioned staying under 1500 feet height difference they never notice any problems. Which is a rather untypical cutting scenario for the homeowner.
Of course you are right about the tree types of the op. No one knows. But if we have the situation you discribe, to be honest, I would seriously discourage the OP with his inexperience to cut down any of them. Large trees can really quickly kill one when having a few tons crashing down!
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