Newbie Project 365 Special

[steyraug223]

Hi guys. First post here after reading for years. I have several saws, mostly of the orange variety, with a little blue and creamsicle in the bunch too. I recently bought my first true "project saw"--complete but non-running really cheap from a rental outfit.

This is a 2003 Husky 365 Special with closed transfer ports, side chain adjust, translucent fuel tank, Walbro HD carb, and clamp-on intake boot. The piston (and, by the looks of the bore, probably the cylinder) are trashed. My intention is to use a 52 mm big bore P/C kit from Bailey's or Northwood and rebuild/replace anything else that needs it.

So far I have everything apart down to the bare case and debating splitting it while I'm at it. I am taking inventory of parts/tools I need to gather. I am a skilled mechanic when it comes to wheeled (or floating) vehicles. This is, however, my first real chainsaw rebuild and I want to learn while building a screaming, reliable work saw. I'm taking the time to meticulously clean every part along the way. So, here's my first list of questions to get started. Sorry there are so many.

Is there any difference (other than price) in these 365/372 big bore kits available from the big name site sponsors?

Are there any good tests I can perform for crank/bearings/seals without splitting cases and, if not, what tools would I need to pull clutch/flywheel and split cases? I do not have a press for reassembly; but I can use one if needed.

Cylinder gasket or no cylinder gasket? I think I know the answer most will give; but, would I be safe on squish with these Chinese kits?

Because of the results I have seen from simple muffler mods, I am debating doing some mild porting and getting my first practice with a degree wheel on this big bore cylinder. Other than "Porting 101" and a couple other previous threads, is there a specific thread related to porting these aftermarket cylinders (with pics) that would be the best reference to address any of the casting “issues”? Any really good general chainsaw cylinder porting books/website references out there?

Thanks so much in advance for the help. I would be willing to take detailed pics and log my progress along the way if AS members would like to contribute all their great knowledge to this project.

 

[2stroked2smoke]

If you have access to a lathe it's better to trim off the bottom of the cylinder and use a base gasket, but if you don't have access to a lathe then I don't use a gasket just a good sealer. Just make sure you squish doesn't get less than .020. As for the big bore kits and the mods to them, Aussie1 has a lot of good info and pics in his posts. Good luck and post some pics of your progress.

 

[AUSSIE1]

If you purchase through Bailey's and there was to be any issues Gregg provides excellent backup.

As the piston is stuffed it would be in your best interest to replace the crank seals at least.

If you could find somewhere to turn down your barrel and piston, it would be well worth it. The other option with the BB kits is to use the 064 Meteor piston from Bailey's as you can get this machined into an .020 popup cheaply without having to do the barrel which needs a mandrel made up.

No base gasket with the 064 piston/popup..

If you don't have the means to do the upper transfers, keep your Ex and In 160°/160° .

Raise the cyl at the lower transfers up to 5mm.

Match the cyl to the base using the base gasket as a template.

In one side of the lower transfers you will notice it is "dented" in. This needs to be ground back to match the other side.

Don't bother altering the trans divider.

Personally I don't open up the lower transfers, only blend to match the cases.

If you run with the kit piston, window it as per Will's (ParrisW) recent thread.

 

[Roanoker494]

Hey there neighbor, I live right outside Rocky Mount and my user name is no coincident either.

I am in the middle of a complete 372xp rebuilt myself and there are many threads on the site where others have built them as well. I would personally choose to split the case myself, if you are going to sink money into the saw you have to make sure you are starting with a solid foundation. To split the cases you will need Husqvarna tool number 502 51 61-01, or something equivalent. I put my case back together using the crankcase bolts, just use a star pattern and pull each a little at a time. Baileys has a complete gasket/seal kit for $10, but you will need still need to get part number 503 26 30-19 in addition to this kit.

Here are some links that will help you out
365 IPL http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna 365.pdf
372 IPL http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna 372.pdf

Baileys Gasket kit
Bailey's - NWP Gasket set for Husqvarna 362, 365, 371 and 372

Baileys other parts for this saw
http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catid=1705

 

[AUSSIE1]

You can make a splitter cheaply and quickly if you have the means to do so as another option.

 

[Roanoker494]

You can make a splitter cheaply and quickly if you have the means to do so as another option.

There is also a ton of shops around Roanoke that may pull the case apart for you. Outdoor Power Equipment at the Roanoke/Salem Plaza, Specialized Saw and Mower in Vinton, Moneta Farm Supply in Moneta and Coast to Coast in Rocky Mount just to name a few.

 

[AUSSIE1]

There is also a ton of shops around Roanoke that may pull the case apart for you. Outdoor Power Equipment at the Roanoke/Salem Plaza, Specialized Saw and Mower in Vinton, Moneta Farm Supply in Moneta and Coast to Coast in Rocky Mount just to name a few.

That's handy.

I did my first split very successfully with some long 8mm set screws and long nuts. Worked well.

Can you recommend a machinist for his barrel and/or piston?

 

[Roanoker494]

That's handy.

I did my first split very successfully with some long 8mm set screws and long nuts. Worked well.

Can you recommend a machinist for his barrel and/or piston?

There are a couple machine shops around Roanoke but I have no idea if any of them would mess with a chainsaw cylinder, not sure any of them would have a mandrel. If you wanted to go with a 064 piston I bet the machine shop at Fishers Auto parts, right behind the old Roanoke Community Hospital, could do the work. The only person I know who actually "builds" chainsaws, I know he has in the past but I can not say if he still does, around here is Randy at C&R Lawnmower Shop in Hardy.

 

[steyraug223]

Wow. This is great information so far.

Roanoker, I noticed your screen name before and searched your posts for local saw shops. We cut serious amounts of hardwood all over Franklin, Craig, and Floyd County. Most of the shops I have used (Rocky Mount Tractor, VICE, etc) only want to do "stock" fixes. I'm a little nervous about the degree wheel and timing, I must admit. I'm trying to do as much reading/searching as possible. Thank you for the case splitter part numbers.

AUSSIE, question for you. When you say raise the cylinder at the lower transfers up to 5mm, where do you measure the 5mm? Your pictures are good at showing this. I just don't want to grind too much. On the 064 piston, I am assuming this piston is taller above the pin and the popup must be cut to get squish corrected. Am I way off on this? On kit piston windows, are the window dimensions critical as long as I keep them symmetrical and leave enough "meat" for strength? Your homemade case splitter, I assume, just uses the bar studs. I can make one of those. I like to weld/fabricate and have everything in my garage.

Again, good info. A thousand thanks. Keep this coming. I think the degree wheel will teach me quite a bit once I get it set up.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Wow. This is great information so far.

AUSSIE, question for you. When you say raise the cylinder at the lower transfers up to 5mm, where do you measure the 5mm? Your pictures are good at showing this. I just don't want to grind too much. On the 064 piston, I am assuming this piston is taller above the pin and the popup must be cut to get squish corrected. Am I way off on this? On kit piston windows, are the window dimensions critical as long as I keep them symmetrical and leave enough "meat" for strength? Your homemade case splitter, I assume, just uses the bar studs. I can make one of those. I like to weld/fabricate and have everything in my garage.

You measure up from the base. Place a straight edge on the surface and you can measure from there. My BB's are at 5mm. It is roughly level with the port divider. Getting a piston turned down is quick, easy and cheap to do. A basic lathe is all that's needed. Yes the 064 piston has the taller crown and a wider skirt. Also with the 064 piston is you have to open up the pin bosses so the small end of the conrod will fit in there. Quick and easy mod. Going the 064 piston route is the quickest and cheapest way to achieve some compression. Don't be afraid to give the degree wheel a try. Not as difficult as one may think and worth it in the long run.

If you wanted to keep the project basic for the time being, you can widen the ports to within .100 thou of the piston skirt, raise the cyl at the lower transfers to level with the base (red in the picture), match the cyl to the cases using the base gasket, window the piston as per Will's pic, run gasketless and do a muffler mod.

You can see Will's piston here. http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/168195.htm