Newbie Questions

[Ryan.s]

I just received my Echo CS346 last night which was purchased off of ebay. I went through the user manual but had some general questions.

What is the proper chain tension? How tight should it be? Is there a rule of thumb on this?

There is a section in the user manual that shows how to set the chain by using a depth gauge tool and files. Is this something that needs to be done on a new chain?

Thanks!

 

[ShoerFast]

I just received my Echo CS346 last night which was purchased off of ebay. I went through the user manual but had some general questions.

What is the proper chain tension? How tight should it be? Is there a rule of thumb on this?

There is a section in the user manual that shows how to set the chain by using a depth gauge tool and files. Is this something that needs to be done on a new chain?

Thanks!

No sag , no drag,,,,,Just a place to start.

 

[bump_r]

Rule of thumb 1 = no sag, no drag. Tighten the chain to the point wher there is no sag on the underside of the bar, but you can also easily runthe chain around the bar by hand. Be sure you hold the nose of the bar up as you adjust, check, and tighend the nuts.

The depth gauge and files are for sharpening a chain, not adjusting the tension. Some on here can sharpen a chain better by hand than a factory-fresh edge (I'm not one of them)

Rule of thumb 2 - check the "search" function (It's a bit kwirky for some, gotta right-click and "open in new window") -it is a great tool for looking up common issues like this.

 

[bump_r]

Got-dang ya Shoer! Beat me to it!

 

[l2edneck]

i set mine just so it gives about 1/16 of an inch off bar

 

[manual]

As for me. I'll use that new chain out of the box. Knowing I can sharpen it better by hand.
I use a depth gauge right off the bat. your raker depth always changes every time you sharpen your chain. I use the carlton Depth Gauge. And always keep that gullet clean. why more room for chips.
Do a search on hand filing. and feed your mind

 

[Ryan.s]

Thanks for the responses guys. In my defense I did do a search but nothing popped out, guess I was a little impatient. I promise to show more patience in the future.

To clarify my questions, I actually had two seperate questions, one was the topic of chain tension which you guys addressed and the second was of the topic of setting the chain. I guess the way I phrased it originally it was a bit unclear.

So the question remains, does a new chain need to be set or is good to go straight out of the box?

Thanks!!

 

[manual]

Man I hate my Dial Up connection. :angry2:

 

[manual]

So the question remains, does a new chain need to be set or is good to go straight out of the box?

Thanks!!

Refer to post # 6

 

[GitWood]

There may be a better way, but here is how I do it.

Loosen the bar nuts and retighten them finger tight. Lift the bar (without touching the chain) so that any play is taken out. Tighten just until the chain side links touch the bottom rails of the bar, and tighten the bar nuts. Do all of this while holding upward pressure on the bar. If you are just tightening a lose chain, you are probably done. If you have just installed or reinstalled the chain, you will need to start the saw, rev a few times, shut it off and retighten. Don't worry about depth gages until 3-4th time you sharpen. Definately do not overtighten. That is hard on bars, chains, sprockets, bearings, etc.

That's how I do it. If I'm all wet, I'm sure that someone here will let us both know.

 

[Ryan.s]

As for me. I'll use that new chain out of the box. Knowing I can sharpen it better by hand.
I use a depth gauge right off the bat. your raker depth always changes every time you sharpen your chain. I use the carlton Depth Gauge. And always keep that gullet clean. why more room for chips.
Do a search on hand filing. and feed your mind

So you use it without setting it out of the box or do you set it? You said you'll use the new chain out of the box but then you say you use the depth gauge right off the bat? Thanks!

 

[Dan Forsh]

Ryan,

You can use your chain straight out of the box. The depth gauges or rakers are already set. The rakers determines how big a bite the cutter takes each time it passes through the wood. The bigger the height difference is between the top of the cutter and the top of the raker, the bigger the chips the chain will try to cut. Obviously if the rakers are set too low the chain will try to cut too much and you will bog the saw down in the cut.

Every time the cutters are resharpened they get a little bit shorter, so the height difference changes. As has been said earlier you won't notice the difference for the first few sharpenings, but eventually you will need to reset the rakers. The gauge that is used to do this sits on top of the cutter and is set so that it exposes the top of the raker which needs to be levelled off with a flat file.

That a good enough answer for you?

Regards,

Dan

 

[manual]

So you use it without setting it out of the box or do you set it? You said you'll use the new chain out of the box but then you say you use the depth gauge right off the bat? Thanks!

I use the chain "As is" out of the box. Then I use the depth guage.
But that is me. I find it is necessary to do so. I like the way the chain cuts afterwards.
No you don't have to file your rakers right away. yes you can get by with factory specs. for the 3 or 4 sharpenings.
Go get a depth gauge and you be the judge.

 

[Ryan.s]

Thanks guys, now i understand!

 

[arnbobold]

I can remember when I was first starting to use chainsaws. I had an old XL-12 Homelite. I was trying to make a cut and the bar and chain was skating back and forth on the wood. I couldn't figure it out. Anyway I was told to file the drags (Rakers now days). I never knew there was a gauge so I filed them down pretty far ( to far). I put the saw in the wood all revved-up and it pulled the powerhead right into the wood and wedged and died. Without any help you have to learn things the hard way. This post just made me remember this. Bob