Newbie with saw questions

[7sleeper]

Excellent comment!

7

 

[SawTroll]

Get a 365xp brand new and convert it yourself to a 372xp!

7

365xt to 372xpxt. it is only possible with the current x-torq versions.

 

[7sleeper]

So i did have it correct the first time... lol

Thanks for the kind feedback... lol

7

 

[SawTroll]

Or find used Jred 2065/2165 and convert that to 2071/2172. He says he likes Jred and has good dealer support. That's what I did.

2166 to 2172 is as 365xt to 372xpxt - with the older ones you need a new top end.

 

[Noisemaker]

Somehow I missed this thread, so I was catching up on it. I cut about the same amount of wood, mostly with cheap homeowner class saws. One thing that struck me: A bigger saw might well be helpful and faster, but nothing you described in the use of your 5020 should have harmed the saw in any way. I have bucked quite a few trees of that size with small bar homeowner saws, where I needed to cut from both sides. It's slow but the saw doesn't mind at all. And it's never appreciably worn a bar either.

Broken chain brakes, damaged bars - these things are likely due to things like pinching the bar, worn chains, etc. It would be well worth the effort of reading up and refining technique, as an expensive saw can be damaged pretty quickly too.

I eluded to that in my original post, I used my saws in some rough conditions. The bar issue actually turned out to be a chain issue - my dealer had some bad chain. Under visual inspection you couldn't see the issue with it, but there was something wrong with the drive links so that regardless of sharpening by hand or machine, it would crescent cut to the left. That issue has since been remedied with new chains. I wanted a smaller bar for the saw anyways, so the 16" bar and chains I ordered for it aren't going to waste, and I actually like that combo better than the 20" b&c, but the 20" bar is fine, if not just a little worn. However, other issues have occurred - I cooked a saw, it was set too lean from the factory and I didn't adjust it myself just went out cutting. Then I had a recoil spring fail on me after a few pulls, had a bar adjuster nut break and the chain break issue. There are QC and quality of parts at play here as well, not just my ham-fisted style of operation. All of that stated, I've changed my operating style, because clearly, my homeowner saws can't take the abuse like my dads old pro saws could and still do.
I'll actually be working on my FIL's saws this winter, he's got a Homelite that hasn't attempted to run in over a decade, so I told him I'd tinker with it in the winter month's, and his Poulan needs maintenance and a new gas cap; it will be a good experience anyways.

Back onto the pro saw purchase, the reason I started with an inexpensive Poulan was for just that reason - so I could refine my technique on something that wouldn't hurt too much when I broke it, and so that I could learn more about chainsaws - I used to just cut and my dad took care of the rest, except for running a file over the cutters, he made me do that. Now that I've been breaking Poulans for a couple-few years I know what not to do, it may not be the most efficient way to learn, but it's how I learn, break it, take it apart, put it back together. I also know I could fight through with my existing saws, I did it this year, and I did it the year before. But a pro saw would make it easier and quicker for me and lets face it, there is also the "want" factor. Next year is going to be a 14+ year, I've got three decent sized Ash drops planned for first thing in the spring at a friends house, a downed Oak to buck at a neighbors house, and a bunch of Ash at my in-laws to take down; so I'm going to be busy. I've also still got some stuff still up in the air this year, which depends on the electric company.

Thanks for the feedback though, I like to see other people making it through with homeowner saws, I will say that getting parts for the Poulan is a nightmare, everything has to be ordered online; I feel like they were designed as disposable saws, so when something breaks you just replace the whole unit.

 

[Chris-PA]

I eluded to that in my original post, I used my saws in some rough conditions. The bar issue actually turned out to be a chain issue - my dealer had some bad chain. Under visual inspection you couldn't see the issue with it, but there was something wrong with the drive links so that regardless of sharpening by hand or machine, it would crescent cut to the left. That issue has since been remedied with new chains. I wanted a smaller bar for the saw anyways, so the 16" bar and chains I ordered for it aren't going to waste, and I actually like that combo better than the 20" b&c, but the 20" bar is fine, if not just a little worn. However, other issues have occurred - I cooked a saw, it was set too lean from the factory and I didn't adjust it myself just went out cutting. Then I had a recoil spring fail on me after a few pulls, had a bar adjuster nut break and the chain break issue. There are QC and quality of parts at play here as well, not just my ham-fisted style of operation. All of that stated, I've changed my operating style, because clearly, my homeowner saws can't take the abuse like my dads old pro saws could and still do.
I'll actually be working on my FIL's saws this winter, he's got a Homelite that hasn't attempted to run in over a decade, so I told him I'd tinker with it in the winter month's, and his Poulan needs maintenance and a new gas cap; it will be a good experience anyways.

Back onto the pro saw purchase, the reason I started with an inexpensive Poulan was for just that reason - so I could refine my technique on something that wouldn't hurt too much when I broke it, and so that I could learn more about chainsaws - I used to just cut and my dad took care of the rest, except for running a file over the cutters, he made me do that. Now that I've been breaking Poulans for a couple-few years I know what not to do, it may not be the most efficient way to learn, but it's how I learn, break it, take it apart, put it back together. I also know I could fight through with my existing saws, I did it this year, and I did it the year before. But a pro saw would make it easier and quicker for me and lets face it, there is also the "want" factor. Next year is going to be a 14+ year, I've got three decent sized Ash drops planned for first thing in the spring at a friends house, a downed Oak to buck at a neighbors house, and a bunch of Ash at my in-laws to take down; so I'm going to be busy. I've also still got some stuff still up in the air this year, which depends on the electric company.

Thanks for the feedback though, I like to see other people making it through with homeowner saws, I will say that getting parts for the Poulan is a nightmare, everything has to be ordered online; I feel like they were designed as disposable saws, so when something breaks you just replace the whole unit.

Sounds like you have the right approach - I just didn't want to see someone buy a more expensive saw and have problems with it.

Interesting comment on the Poulan parts issue, in that I like the aspect of readily available parts on line, plus the ability to download IPLs. True, you have to pay shipping and put it on a card, but Poulan parts are fairly cheap, I don't have time to drive out to repair shops and I do not wish to depend on them to tell me what parts I need. Different strokes I guess.

 

[Noisemaker]

Sounds like you have the right approach - I just didn't want to see someone buy a more expensive saw and have problems with it.

Interesting comment on the Poulan parts issue, in that I like the aspect of readily available parts on line, plus the ability to download IPLs. True, you have to pay shipping and put it on a card, but Poulan parts are fairly cheap, I don't have time to drive out to repair shops and I do not wish to depend on them to tell me what parts I need. Different strokes I guess.

I like being able to get things online too, but when I went looking for a bar I couldn't source one locally from a dealer and had to wait three days for it come in; the big box store where I bought this doesn't carry any spare parts, which is worrisome and lends itself the the "disposable" nature - I'm willing to pay slightly more for the convenience of being able to get my hands on parts the day I need them vs. paying less for stuff online and waiting for it to come in; I guess I like to have the option, and I prefer to support a local business if they are deserving. I'm basically going to just start keeping maintenance parts in stock in my basement and batch order a bunch, and probably get an extra adjuster screw/nut just in case I break one or something because they are so cheap.
The good news is that if I buy an extra adjuster screw/nut I'll never need it because I have it, unless of course I misplace the one I have, then I will need it, buy a new one, and after that comes in, find the first spare ;-).