Nice Mod to a 361

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I purchased my 361 in Dec of 2005 and it does not have the recessed bar stud holes in the side cover. How much does a new side cover cost Andy? I would like to upgrade the studs to match my 441.
 
You can just drill (roughly 12.5mm wide - or use a 1/2 inch drill bit - just make sure you are exactly centered!) a slight recess in what you have. If you are going to buy a new side cover, get the 441 magnum wrap cover - full depth of the saw. I think it's about $50, but I don't have my updated price book with me. I'll confirm it Monday.

The standard side cover for the MS441 and MS361 is 1135 640 1703.

Here's the 361 with the 441 Magnum cover. Added benefit - real tank protection from chain throws. Part number 1138-648-0400

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Haywire Haywood said:
The correct tool would be a 12mm end mill with an 8mm pilot. I ended up using a 1/2" drill in my press.

Ian


What you can't see in my original photo is that the recess is tapered at the seat just like the stud shoulder. Looks like 45 degrees, so it you are to drill, a modified drill bit or a tapered counter-bore would be best.
 
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Got 2 of my 4 in...

I think Lake got my other 2...

Lake, if the side plate is squeezing the bar there should never be contact between the side cover and stud shoulder end, right? Just the outside of the shoulder to prevent rotation.

What I'm thinking is that the angle of the new stud shoulder and the base of the side cover recess aren't a deal breaker for someone w/ std 118 deg bits since these parts should never come in contact laterally (else the bar is no longer being compressed).

Chaser
 
I got 8 of them! Plenty more in stock at Stihl NW..

I doubt it's a problem as there is definitely a small gap when everything is fully seated. If you're worried, a 45 degree reamer would work to finish the 118 seat - even a hand held wood working type - magnesium alloy machines very easily.

I'll go measure the depth and dimensions of the factory cover recesses later today. I need to anyhow to modify my 066 etc!
 
Lakeside53 said:
I got 8 of them! Plenty more in stock at Stihl NW..

I doubt it's a problem as there is definitely a small gap when everything is fully seated. If you're worried, a 45 degree reamer would work to finish the 118 seat - even a hand held wood working type - magnesium alloy machines very easily.

I'll go measure the depth and dimensions of the factory cover recesses later today. I need to anyhow to modify my 066 etc!

Having that depth would be nice. Save me a step. :cheers:

I'm gonna save the shavings for firestarting...

BTW, my dealer never did receive my 361 dog kit - at least not consciously. It was shipped from Germany, he has the tracking number - apparently it made it here then *poof*... So he's ordered another set.

(Manual...all I have to say is if you're behind this...:cheers: you sneaky devil!)

Funny thing was he said "Here, I did get your 066 chain catcher in." and handed me a bag.

I said "Yeah, I know. I installed it on my 066 over a month ago." And handed him the bag back. He gave me a puzzled look...

When he re-ordered the 361 dogs he reordered my 066 roller as well since they were on the same ticket...:buttkick: But he gave me the catcher over a month ago and said he'd close out the ticket when the dogs arrived...:dizzy:

Chaser
 
The depth of the 12.5mm hole in the side cover is 3mm from the inside to the START of the 45 taper..

As it's a 45 moving from 12.5mm (diameter) to about 8mm (diameter), you can figure out any other measurement you need! If you need it!
 
wagonwheeler said:
Having that depth would be nice. Save me a step. :cheers:

I'm gonna save the shavings for firestarting...

BTW, my dealer never did receive my 361 dog kit - at least not consciously. It was shipped from Germany, he has the tracking number - apparently it made it here then *poof*... So he's ordered another set.

(Manual...all I have to say is if you're behind this...:cheers: you sneaky devil!)

Chaser
Got mine in last week or so. Took forever. I am closer to Germany then you are.
 
Nuts

Andy,
What year did Stihl start making the sideplate nuts that are the same size as the sparkplugs? I wondered this as I've been figuring out the screnches are more an more universal to fit nearly everything on the saw...
 
Lakeside,

Thanks again for this tip. The bar studs for my 361 finally came in to my dealer today, and the mechanic wasn't around, so I couldn't ask him, but I have a question I hope you and/or others can answer:

What (if anything) should I use on the bases of those bar studs? Blue Loctite? Red Loctite? Anti-seez? Grease? Nothing?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
The correct answer is blue loctite... but unless you degrease the threads where they go into the bar oil tank it won't be very effective. If you are concerned (or just want to do it "right"), put the saw on its side, squirt the threads with carb cleaner, let it dry then appy loctite to the stud threads.
 
If you want to taper a few bar holes for a more exact fit, buy one extra stud and modify it with a few hacksaw cuts and some file work (or use the almighty Dremel). Cut in at least two lines running the length of the taper and then file out the area in front of the cuts to make a counter sink. The bar cover alloy is soft and this stud mod should take only a few minutes. Plus it will be self centering.

Sounds like a good improvement over the old studs. Kudos to Stihl for making a better mouse trap.
 
Just bringing this back because it was a great Idea.

I swapped out the studs on my 660 tonight. I was able to double nut the stock studs to get them out. I was also surprised it didnt take much elbow grease to get them out!!
 
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