Nik's Poulan Thread

[80sDweeb]

Do the PPro saws still have chromed bores, or if not, when did they stop? Just wondering if any of the more recent saws would be worth picking up if the price was right. Any recent PPros with a quality level even approaching the earlier "semi-plastic" saws (295,4620AV, etc.)?

I tried to figure out the specs of the current Poulan and PPro saws, and they don't give any specs at all on their website (nor does Craftsman offer any.) I was hoping to see bore and stroke, whether the "easy start" systems are decomps, carburetors used, etc. I can get some info from an IPL, but where to find specs?

Scott in Penfield NY

 

[joe25DA]

Do the PPro saws still have chromed bores, or if not, when did they stop? Just wondering if any of the more recent saws would be worth picking up if the price was right. Any recent PPros with a quality level even approaching the earlier "semi-plastic" saws (295,4620AV, etc.)?

I tried to figure out the specs of the current Poulan and PPro saws, and they don't give any specs at all on their website (nor does Craftsman offer any.) I was hoping to see bore and stroke, whether the "easy start" systems are decomps, carburetors used, etc. I can get some info from an IPL, but where to find specs?

Scott in Penfield NY

All current and past poulan pros use a chrome bore, the later models call it "durachrome".
The PP 330 was Poulans last true "pro" saw in that it has all the goodies, perfomance and construction of the $600+ saws.

 

[joe25DA]

All current and past poulan pros use a chrome bore, the later models call it "durachrome".
The PP 330 was Poulans last true "pro" saw in that it has all the goodies, perfomance and construction of the $600+ saws.

The new pp saws are very good as well, certainly the best bang for your buck. Modified mark did a great review on the new poulan pro 5020av. People give them very good comments and the price is right for sure. That saw is 50cc.

 

[3000 FPS]

They are like a large wood screw or self tapping srew. Did you have a look at the IPL? That should explain how the mounts go together.

If you don't have an IPL there is one attached here for a 3300.

If you want a pic of a screw, let me know and I will pull one and take a pic and measure it if that will help you.

I believe the rubber part of the av mount is installed with an allen screw. Then over the top of that is a plastic cap that has a allen type machine screw. The front av mount is where the chain catcher goes.

This is from a Poulan 335 but it is the same.

 

[Tractorsaw1]

that makes a lot more sense, so does the chain catcher center screw just go into the plastic? thanks

 

[3000 FPS]

that makes a lot more sense, so does the chain catcher center screw just go into the plastic? thanks

There is a screw that goes through the chain catcher into that black plastic cap, (first picture). Then there is a bracket that goes over that, (last picture).

 

[Tractorsaw1]

3000 thank you for taking the pictures & posting it! Is there another bracket that goes over the rear one? Seems like there is a small metal square I guess goes in where the catcher is on the front.

 

[80sDweeb]

The new pp saws are very good as well, certainly the best bang for your buck. Modified mark did a great review on the new poulan pro 5020av. People give them very good comments and the price is right for sure. That saw is 50cc.

Thanks for the replies. I knew that the true "Pro" Poulan saw production is over, but wondered if the Pro designation at least indicates a machine has some advantages over their cheaper (when new) brothers.

Also, thanks for pointing out ModifiedMark's 5020av thread, it's a good one!

Scott in Penfield NY

 

[machinisttx]

Me too. Nothing like a couple hundred grains of lead and copper to wake 'em up for a split second.

Plain old lead works pretty good too. 255's at 1250fps from a .45 Colt....

I cast 124 grain 9mm hollowpoints that leave the 9mm in the picture at around 1250 fps too.

 

[machinisttx]

sweet...those should mushroom nicely on impact with soft tissue.......

IIRC, they blew through six or seven water jugs before stopping. At that speed, they fragment. Most of my molds are convertible from hollowpoint to solid, and several can cast either the pentagonal cavity hp or a conventional round hp.

 

[7hpjim]

Plain old lead works pretty good too. 255's at 1250fps from a .45 Colt....

I cast 124 grain 9mm hollowpoints that leave the 9mm in the picture at around 1250 fps too.

Man those have a super crimp!!, what powder are you using??

 

[machinisttx]

Off hand, I couldn't tell you with 100% certainty. Most likely it was 2400.

I also load some 250 grain hornady XTP's to 1450fps for that gun. Talk about clearing the stalls at the indoor range.....

 

[hotshot]

I knew it! Tell your neighbor congratulations for me. Did you spot that it was not really a 3400 P/C, or did he? I haven't replaced a piston on this series yet, so I'll let others with more expertise answer your bearing question.

Yep, you could tell the rings were tiny. It cleaned up real nice, the only neg was a worn spot on the shaft where the seal rode.

It's only down to .623" smoothed out and those SKF #6119 seals are so tight ID bore wise that they could seal a .610" shaft, at least the new ones he has anyways.

We were going to build it this weekend but got an ice storm that took a bunch of trees and the power out. Still don't have power, running on a generator...if it's not tornados, it's ice!

 

[redunshee]

Working on a friends 2700. Had an air leak under the cylinder so I pulled it and reset with Dirko. Also replaced the flywheel side seal as it was leaking. Holds pressure good but there is a little leak off of vacuum. Starts at 10in HG vac and drops to 8 and stays there. Heavens knows where its losing vac. Real question is at idle the rpm's fluctaute 200-300 rpm's. Saw doesn't stall(set at 2800 RPMs) but idlle does fluctuate. Could this be the result of a small vac leak or is this normal? Ah my 3400 thru 4000 Poulans are so much easier to fix.
Bob

 

[hotshot]

yikes that sucks this time of year, hope you have wood heat. We did without electricity for 10 days in early march years ago. We lived way out in the sticks. The silence is deafening after about day 3 you start going crazy

Yes I'm all good, plenty of wood and the generator runs the stove blower. Thank this site for having great running saws. I posted a pic of the ice in the busted trees the "Severe Storm" thread

 

[rms61moparman]

I revived and ported a Sears Best 2.5 Craftsman (very similar to a 2750/2775 Poulan) yesterday that I bought from a friend who works at a salvage yard.
As I dumped the old fuel, the filter fell out into my old fuel container, that told me volumes right there.
New lines and filter, clean carb and a thorough bath (the first that saw ever had) and it is now a nice little firewood saw.

Amazing what some people will just throw away!!!


Mike

 

[Modifiedmark]

Working on a friends 2700. Had an air leak under the cylinder so I pulled it and reset with Dirko. Also replaced the flywheel side seal as it was leaking. Holds pressure good but there is a little leak off of vacuum. Starts at 10in HG vac and drops to 8 and stays there. Heavens knows where its losing vac. Real question is at idle the rpm's fluctaute 200-300 rpm's. Saw doesn't stall(set at 2800 RPMs) but idlle does fluctuate. Could this be the result of a small vac leak or is this normal? Ah my 3400 thru 4000 Poulans are so much easier to fix.
Bob

If it holds pressure but leaks vac, that's a classic sign of a crank seal leaking. The air pressure will sometimes force the seal lips tight on the crank and actually seal them up. Pack the outside of the seal with grease and vac test it again. Don't be surprised to see it suck the grease in.

If I had to replace one seal, I would automatically replace the other.

 

[redunshee]

If it holds pressure but leaks vac, that's a classic sign of a crank seal leaking. The air pressure will sometimes force the seal lips tight on the crank and actually seal them up. Pack the outside of the seal with grease and vac test it again. Don't be surprised to see it suck the grease in.

If I had to replace one seal, I would automatically replace the other.

Agree Mark. Problem is I don't have the tool to pull the oil pump worm gear. Have one ordered and hope it arrives. In the meantime, I'll tear it back down and grease the clutch side seal and vac test it.
Bob

 

[fossil]

Something from Shreveport will be getting a workout soon. The freezing rain is due to fall for several more hours and lots of branches are still coming down.


I've lost my cherry tree in the back and it's not looking too good for my birch out front.

 

[redunshee]

Something from Shreveport will be getting a workout soon. The freezing rain is due to fall for several more hours and lots of branches are still coming down.


I've lost my cherry tree in the back and it's not looking too good for my birch out front.

Tim, what a mess. Terrible to see the damage that ice can do. I lucked out here last week and only had minor limb damage. Best of luck.
Bob