Nik's Poulan Thread

[Acornhill]

Here are some of my 25's notice the early 25 is much lighter as is the case

 

[redunshee]

Here are some of my 25'sView attachment 365923 notice the early 25 is much lighter as is the case

I thought I had a lot of them! Nice collection.

 

[Acornhill]

That is not all of them, I have gold ones as well, now the 2300's are in front

 

[Acornhill]

 

[Acornhill]

I have tried everything to separate this cylinder from the piston with no luck

 

[Acornhill]

3400-4000 series

 

[Acornhill]

 

[redunshee]

View attachment 365959

Man,you have a pile of saws.

 

[redunshee]

I have tried everything to separate this cylinder from the piston with no luckView attachment 365950

Ring stuck in cylinder? Only have had that happen when the cylinder was shot and I didn't care about ruining it.

 

[Acornhill]

Yes, I would love to get it apart so I can fix it

 

[Acornhill]

Hopefully tomorrow I will do the 200 300 400 series and the 4200 8500 series

 

[s sidewall]

Poulan spark plugs any good? That 25da I'm working on still has the original plug and it runs off of it.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Poulan spark plugs any good? That 25da I'm working on still has the original plug and it runs off of it.

Sounds to me like you just answered your own question.

 

[stubnail67]

Sounds to me like you just answered your own question.

in my best good fellas voice...... your a funny guy......

 

[fossil]

I completely disassembled/reassembled my oil burning 3400. Cylinder and piston were mint after clean-up. This is/was my first one (period) and it was a fairly slick procedure. I should have asked questions before but...you know how it goes. I am looking for feedback on any of the following before I start on my other 3400:

1) I removed cylinder gasket and used motoseal. I also set the case halves with motoseal as well. I gather this is a appropriate product for this? Tenacious stuff it is.

I did not check the squish before hand but tried the solder through the spark plug hole after and am only getting down to 0.035". I checked my other 3400 and the same solder doesn't even squish at TDC with the stock base gasket. This isn't a controlled comparison but I gather the compression has been increased.

2) I know these saws by design, have lower compression, but is it worth trying to get it down to 0.020"? I've searched a fair bit here and see it is not uncommon to seek < 0.020" on saws of this displacement? I guy would have to remove a fair bit off of the base of the jug.

Having said that, the saw fired after 3-4 pulls and immediately idled much quicker than prior to tear down/gasket removal. Sign of increased compression I gather? I did not change the seals yet (got some questions there) as they were tight before and seem so now. Throttle response was wicked after idle adjustment with my previous L H carb settings. Does one follow the same tuning procedure after compression has been increased?

3) I gather these National seals have been successful for the saw ( Qoute from old post - National seal # 253747 looks like it will work as a replacement for the Poulan 3400 series saws seal (530019097). These seem to totally NLA so a replacement source is necessary.). Just trying to get feedback before I order a few to have on hand.

4) There are Caber rings on ebay from a seller in Greece. Quality rings?

Any brief input on any of these would be swell.

Thanks guys, I am alreadly looking forward to the next "rebuild".

Cory

On a side note Cory,
The oiler gaskets should be changed as well when you change out the diaphragm. I found they can get leaky and don't allow the oiler to work up to snuff.

Th compression on a 3400 should be 120-135 lbs. I haven't found you can get them too much higher than 140.

A few of the guys may have done so. They took material off the cylinder base.

 

[caffeine1fg]

Hey guys I've been busy reading past posts in this stickie, lots of useful information from here.

Today I picked up a 3400 for parts. I was quite surprised that the recoil sticker said 61 cc beneath the 3400 Counter Vibe label. I had my hopes up that it was a 3700 top end so I quickly pulled the muffler.....darn, chrome piston! Oh well maybe a 3800... off comes the cylinder.... 46mm bore, doh!! Just a regular old 3400. All is good though, lots of compression, not much blow by on the piston. I wonder why the sticker was screwed up?

Since this cylinder is off, it will be going on the lathe to set the squish and I plan to decrease the radii of the exhaust port. I may widen the intake and exhaust ports slightly, as well raising them to compensate for the cylinder being decked. The transfers will be left alone since I only have a dremel. The intake manifold is getting cleaned up too.

From my modest research, this seems to be the standard "recipe" for novice chainsaw tuners. Almost forgot to mention muffler mod. Anyone have any other pointers?

Sorry for the long winded post and thanks for all top handle pictures, John.

 

[s sidewall]

It was just hard to believe it had the original plug. Who made their plugs?

 

[3000 FPS]

I completely disassembled/reassembled my oil burning 3400. Cylinder and piston were mint after clean-up. This is/was my first one (period) and it was a fairly slick procedure. I should have asked questions before but...you know how it goes. I am looking for feedback on any of the following before I start on my other 3400:

1) I removed cylinder gasket and used motoseal. I also set the case halves with motoseal as well. I gather this is a appropriate product for this? Tenacious stuff it is.

I did not check the squish before hand but tried the solder through the spark plug hole after and am only getting down to 0.035". I checked my other 3400 and the same solder doesn't even squish at TDC with the stock base gasket. This isn't a controlled comparison but I gather the compression has been increased.

2) I know these saws by design, have lower compression, but is it worth trying to get it down to 0.020"? I've searched a fair bit here and see it is not uncommon to seek < 0.020" on saws of this displacement? I guy would have to remove a fair bit off of the base of the jug.

Having said that, the saw fired after 3-4 pulls and immediately idled much quicker than prior to tear down/gasket removal. Sign of increased compression I gather? I did not change the seals yet (got some questions there) as they were tight before and seem so now. Throttle response was wicked after idle adjustment with my previous L H carb settings. Does one follow the same tuning procedure after compression has been increased?

3) I gather these National seals have been successful for the saw ( Qoute from old post - National seal # 253747 looks like it will work as a replacement for the Poulan 3400 series saws seal (530019097). These seem to totally NLA so a replacement source is necessary.). Just trying to get feedback before I order a few to have on hand.

4) There are Caber rings on ebay from a seller in Greece. Quality rings?

Any brief input on any of these would be swell.

Thanks guys, I am alreadly looking forward to the next "rebuild".

Cory

I have taken a couple of 3800 down to a squish of .023 to .020" and got around 150 psi. If your going through that much trouble and you are going to modify the saw, then widen the intake and exhaust port by a little. Then port match the muffler to the cylinder. Then also clean up the inside of the plastic intake and smooth it out from any casting flaws. Then take the deflector inside the muffler and drill out the holes to a bigger size. Then cut a slit in the muffler on the clutch side of the saw and open it up a little to let the exhaust breathe better. Then you can advance the timing by a couple of degrees by using the mopar Mike method of putting a piece of a penny in the key way slot on the fly wheel. Make sure you turn the fly wheel ccw to advance timing. Then the best modification of all, make sure the chain is really sharp and the rakers set to the correct level. That 3400 will cut like no bodys business.

When you tune the saw just tune it like any other saw. 4 stroking at wot and then 2 stroking when put into wood.

 

[stubnail67]

I have taken a couple of 3800 down to a squish of .023 to .020" and got around 150 psi. If your going through that much trouble and you are going to modify the saw, then widen the intake and exhaust port by a little. Then port match the muffler to the cylinder. Then also clean up the inside of the plastic intake and smooth it out from any casting flaws. Then take the deflector inside the muffler and drill out the holes to a bigger size. Then cut a slit in the muffler on the clutch side of the saw and open it up a little to let the exhaust breathe better. Then you can advance the timing by a couple of degrees by using the mopar Mike method of putting a piece of a penny in the key way slot on the fly wheel. Make sure you turn the fly wheel ccw to advance timing. Then the best modification of all, make sure the chain is really sharp and the rakers set to the correct level. That 3400 will cut like no bodys business.

When you tune the saw just tune it like any other saw. 4 stroking at wot and then 2 stroking when put into wood.

penny???? never heard of this one

 

[3000 FPS]

penny???? never heard of this one

Well I tried it and it worked. On several saws.