Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

Ground down my bar cover on my PP475. However I don't think my bar is correct. It's a Poulan Pro 952044323 and doesn't fit all the way to the inner bar cover. Measured the bar mount and it is approx. 9mm. Looking up appropriate bars and it appears the mount should be 9.5mm. Believe the Oregon mount should be D007 . Can someone confirm the 9.5 mm fitment?
Bob

Did some jiggering and the bar fits all the way. Putting the cover and outer plate on the is still a large space between the cover and case. I presume there should be no spacing between the two so it looks like my cover is really distorted.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Should be a D009 big husky mount bar.

 

[OhioGregg]

Did some jiggering and the bar fits all the way. Putting the cover and outer plate on the is still a large space between the cover and case. I presume there should be no spacing between the two so it looks like my cover is really distorted.

We need pics of the "jiggering" if ya don't mind Bob.

On a serious note, I don't have any of these Poulan Pros, so I am of NO help. So I will just keep quiet and follow the thread.

Gregg,

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Did some jiggering and the bar fits all the way. Putting the cover and outer plate on the is still a large space between the cover and case. I presume there should be no spacing between the two so it looks like my cover is really distorted.

Take a pic of front with bar and plates installed. I will go and compare your pic to some of my plastic ones if installed still.
Your cover was distorted pretty bad in that one pic.

There will be alittle spacing. Seems some more then others depending on condition of the plastic cover.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Trying to see if the 445 pics show anything. Plastic cover yellow, red metal.

 

[OhioGregg]

Found another brute.....

View attachment 414692

Randy, You should suggest a old sand cast, gear reduction drive build off, for a future GTG. That ought to set off a bunch of head scratchin and WTF's.

Gregg,

 

[Mastermind]

Randy, You should suggest a old sand cast, gear reduction drive build off, for a future GTG. That ought to set off a bunch of head scratchin and WTF's.

Gregg,

I like that idea Gregg........the modern saws are boring as hell to me anymore. lol

 

[redunshee]

Take a pic of front with bar and plates installed. I will go and compare your pic to some of my plastic ones if installed still.
Your cover was distorted pretty bad in that one pic.

There will be alittle spacing. Seems some more then others depending on condition of the plastic cover.

Will do

 

[redunshee]

I am pretty sure that you wouldn't be able to pull this one over either the way it was. It seems that it had flooded to the extent that it was hydraulically locking up at TDC. The starter cord was in good shape when I pulled it in half. That did put the hurt to my fingers.

Fossil clued me in to the possibility that severe flooding may have been the problem. (thanks Tim)

I replaced the starter cord and let it sit several days. Now that it has been drained out and dried out I got it started. When I got it started it fogged pretty heavy for a minute or two. It takes a stout pull for sure but at least now it is possible. The guy I bought it from had never used it. He bought it to mount on a winch for his duck boat but never got around to installing it.

The carb was way out of adjustment, the low speed was out about 2 1/2 turns. When I test ran it when I bought it and let it idle for a couple minutes it probably filled the crankcase with fuel. Now it starts on one very good pull when warm, 2 when cold. This is the first time I have experienced hydraulic lock up on a chainsaw. It isn't fun.
It runs much better with the low turned out to only 1-1/8 turns. Does anyone know what he starting point is supposed to be for these 475's? I am guessing 1 low and 1-1/4 high. My clutch cover fits O.K., just a slight gap.
View attachment 414806 View attachment 414803

Your clutch cover fits a lot better than mine.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I am pretty sure that you wouldn't be able to pull this one over either the way it was. It seems that it had flooded to the extent that it was hydraulically locking up at TDC. The starter cord was in good shape when I pulled it in half. That did put the hurt to my fingers.

Fossil clued me in to the possibility that severe flooding may have been the problem. (thanks Tim)

I replaced the starter cord and let it sit several days. Now that it has been drained out and dried out I got it started. When I got it started it fogged pretty heavy for a minute or two. It takes a stout pull for sure but at least now it is possible. The guy I bought it from had never used it. He bought it to mount on a winch for his duck boat but never got around to installing it.

The carb was way out of adjustment, the low speed was out about 2 1/2 turns. When I test ran it when I bought it and let it idle for a couple minutes it probably filled the crankcase with fuel. Now it starts on one very good pull when warm, 2 when cold. This is the first time I have experienced hydraulic lock up on a chainsaw. It isn't fun.
It runs much better with the low turned out to only 1-1/8 turns. Does anyone know what he starting point is supposed to be for these 475's? I am guessing 1 low and 1-1/4 high. My clutch cover fits O.K., just a slight gap.
View attachment 414806 View attachment 414803

One other idea I had happen once on one on a rebuild. The pully I had used was worn and would hang up mid pull.

Good job figuring out you was flooding it and hydraulically locking up. Never seen one of these do that yet.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I think J.J. had some pretty good advice. It should be fairly easy to sand/machine down the inside mating surface of the outside cover to correct the poor fitment, especially if you have access to a stationary belt sander. I am pretty well impressed with the build quality of these things. But then again my expectations are kind of low. Running the same saw for many years will do that. If they start and cut wood I am pretty well pleased. I need to get this one into a big ash tree I have to take down soon. I am going to run it with my Dolmar 7900 for comparison. It should be fun. I think I will try and shoot my first video when I do that.

Weak link is the plastic AV area on the tank under where the handle slides down through, where it bolts to right side of cylinder. Other wise no problems I have seen.

We got a thread on some redneck fixes done in that area.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

If you ever just need a get by clutch cover. Use a ole husky donor.

Did this one by hand and little jigsaw. You can get it alot better fitting if you try. I didnt really care about looks, just wanted it to work.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Then I used it for this for fun later on after setting oem covers back.

 

[redunshee]

It takes a lot of force to break one of those starter cords when it isn't frayed. I have never seen anything like it. I spent last year building huge cow barns and throwing heavy stuff around, the last barn had 200 posts 6x6 or larger and over 2,000 2 x 12 x 16 southern yellow pine roof purlins. I think I am in pretty good shape for my age.

The saw would pop over TDC once but when it did it must have pushed enough liquid up the transfers to lock it up the next time the piston came up. The handle would come to a complete stop then it would ease over center as the pressure bled down thru the ring gap. The next pull it would do the same thing. I am pretty sure I would have broke something if I had continued to try to start it hydraulically locked. Perhaps my hand if nothing else.

One area I found causing recoil issues was the starter dogs. MIne tended to bind up and felt like I was trying to pull on a 250 psi saw.

 

[redunshee]

Will do

Here are the pics. I see a lot of space.

Any idea why they are showing upside down?
Bob

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Yeah that is wide.

If posting straight from phones. Had a guy send a video to me on his phone to my email. Video was upside down too. To up right stuff I had to put on my utube acct. Pics like that I had to put on my PB acct. Then all was good.

 

[blk05crew]

Nothing special, just had a little time last night after cleaning out my garage some and decided to do a quick muff mod on the 3800.
Just a simple one, removed spark arrester, drilled the holes out in the diffuser to 3/8 and a cut and bend on the side of the muffler.




Now I just need to get another chain for it and get rid of this safety chain.

 

[Hoggwood]

PP 335 is ready to cut. New filters, kit, lines, 8-pin rim, 0.325 16" Windsor, LPX, and a dual port (hack) diffuser/muffler mod.

Thanks to ChipsFlyin for the bumper spike and the fellows that gave me input.

 

[OhioGregg]

PP 335 is ready to cut. New filters, kit, lines, 8-pin rim, 0.325 16" Windsor, LPX, and a dual port (hack) diffuser/muffler mod.

Thanks to ChipsFlyin for the bumper spike and the fellows that gave me input.
View attachment 415078 View attachment 415079 View attachment 415080 View attachment 415081 View attachment 415082

Nice saw! Did a great job on the muffler too!

Is it just my imagination, or am I right? You don't seem to see many of the PP335's. Seems I have seen quite a few PP365's as well as the later PP330/380 models.

Gregg,

 

[ChipsFlyin]

PP 335 is ready to cut. New filters, kit, lines, 8-pin rim, 0.325 16" Windsor, LPX, and a dual port (hack) diffuser/muffler mod.

Thanks to ChipsFlyin for the bumper spike and the fellows that gave me input.
View attachment 415078 View attachment 415079 View attachment 415080 View attachment 415081 View attachment 415082

Nice clean saw! Look real sharp with the Windsor bar.