MS460WOODCHUCK
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Nik's Poulan Thread
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Chris J.
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There's a seller on eBay who has listed several PP5020s badged as Craftsman. They were part of pallet purchase per his description. That might or might not be a good thing (my Craftsman/PP5020 was part of pallet purchase, but I was able to inspect it before buying it). His user name is tick_or_troll (I can appreciate a sense of humor, but seriously?) and his listings are inconsistent.
The two--my last count--he says run have the 'official' shipping listed at $64.95, opening bid $34.95. In his original description he mentioned $19.95 shipping & handling. I asked about it, and he responded that he had removed the $19.95 from the description, saying the higher price is correct.
Now he has listed a couple of non-runners with .99 opening bids. The 'official' shipping is $34.95 on one, and $44.95 on another.
From what I can see this seller normally deals with jewelry, purses, fashion accessories, etc.
The two--my last count--he says run have the 'official' shipping listed at $64.95, opening bid $34.95. In his original description he mentioned $19.95 shipping & handling. I asked about it, and he responded that he had removed the $19.95 from the description, saying the higher price is correct.
Now he has listed a couple of non-runners with .99 opening bids. The 'official' shipping is $34.95 on one, and $44.95 on another.
From what I can see this seller normally deals with jewelry, purses, fashion accessories, etc.
I just received my (correct) 1 1/2" by 1/16" rings from Otto Engine Works for my s25da on Friday. I stayed up late and finished off my barn find with some new goodies. This one was quite different than the 3400-4000 series saws to say the least. The compression feels robust without the base gasket and the sound and throttle response are sublime. I have not touched it down in wood yet. I can tell I will be wearing some anti-vibe gloves for this one if I plan on cutting with it for an extended period of time. Kind of makes you feel...alive. I like it.
Thanks to Nate for the starter grip handle and handle insert.
Great job on the S25 series. Robust compression as in 140# or so? Glad the Otto rings worked well for you too.
Was someone looking for Poulan 361 / 306 rings? I can do a search, as I've posted the aftermarket replacements on here before. They're on Flea Bay (OEM Homolite) or you can get them from the Greek if you would like Cabers. These are the correct 1/16" thick rings too!
The rings are Homelite Super XLAO rings #59436-1a, and I know I had to fit them to the bore though, 2 minutes per ring.
Great job on the S25 series. Robust compression as in 140# or so? Glad the Otto rings worked well for you too.
Was someone looking for Poulan 361 / 306 rings? I can do a search, as I've posted the aftermarket replacements on here before. They're on Flea Bay (OEM Homolite) or you can get them from the Greek if you would like Cabers. These are the correct 1/16" thick rings too!
The rings are Homelite Super XLAO rings #59436-1a, and I know I had to fit them to the bore though, 2 minutes per ring.
Thanks for setting me straight on those metric rings Randy. It was fun putting it together in the end once I had things sequenced properly. I ran a tank through it last night and it is impressive. Noodles galore when blocking up some rounds of Cherry. I did find setting the carb to be a bit tricky. It really likes it rich on the L to get the snap off the throttle > 1 1/2 or so. Can't speak from what is normal with these saws, but it received a full kit and metering arm set using "W" tool. It does seems to idle all day long and starts/throttles effortlessly. The auto oiler is weaker as I expected, and doesn't put out unless at moderate throttle. The manual is healthy. How did you manage with your experiment on the diaphragms for the pump? It would be nice to use some of that material to fix up these pumps.
"Robust" is my qualitative assessment of the compression- LOL. I am that guy that doesn't have all the tools in the collection yet. Namely a compression tester. I can tell you the saw thumps really hard when turning over slowly, will bite back if you don't pull smartly and will hang static with full tanks + b/c from the cord.
jerrycmorrow is looking for those rings.
I don't know if it's available out your way but I bought a couple of gallons of gallons of winter weight bar oil and that makes a significant difference in output on the diaphragm oilers. I think those saws called for SAE 30 oil for the oilers when they were made. If you can't get the winter oil, cut the regular stuff with some kerosine or diesel
I think I fixed up one of those in weed eater colors for my neighbor. I thought it was sort of like a brick that didn't blow too hard.I got me a wild thing
Sweet, that's a good feeling when a plan comes together like that! Those saws with the Tilly HUs do seem to be finicky on carb settings, I usually have a small screwdriver in my pocket when limbing out with them. The idle mixture is what I'm chasing most of the time.
That diaphragm material will work fine for oilers. I just need to get those half dozen shot ones broken down and "re-riveted" to see if the plungers will remain attached. I lost interest after the hot weather set in, but will test out a couple of them before this Fall.
We drove over to OKC to pick up a Dodgers AAA game & some beers tonight.
Just to clarify - you're sayin the sxlao rings will fit with some slight file action? That'd be great cause everything else I can find is way too big or too small Where did you find them? Thanks, jerryGreat job on the S25 series. Robust compression as in 140# or so? Glad the Otto rings worked well for you too.
Was someone looking for Poulan 361 / 306 rings? I can do a search, as I've posted the aftermarket replacements on here before. They're on Flea Bay (OEM Homolite) or you can get them from the Greek if you would like Cabers. These are the correct 1/16" thick rings too!
The rings are Homelite Super XLAO rings #59436-1a, and I know I had to fit them to the bore though, 2 minutes per ring.
Not quite, those rings also have to be clearanced for the single vertical type keeper pin. I'm not a big fan of flat ends butted up against the pin, that was a cost cutter in manufacturing.
Use a Dremel & a thin carbide cutoff to make the notch inside each end after you bore fit them. Go in about half the rings beam depth.
Hold the ring ends apart axially while you make the notch on the inside of the rings. I attached a chitty phone pic of a finished cut pair & a new pair of Cabers.
Cast iron rings are soft, so it goes quick & easy like Miley Cyrus!
thanks much. I've previously used a flat file, never thought about a dremel cutoff. gonna do that.
the stock ones that came off have square ends. have you ever determined the difference in compression with a notch versus square? oh yeah, the locator pins on this piston are not offset at all. seems stupid to me but there it is.
the stock ones that came off have square ends. have you ever determined the difference in compression with a notch versus square? oh yeah, the locator pins on this piston are not offset at all. seems stupid to me but there it is.
I doubt you would see any gains on a guage between the two, but the gap is now closed to 0.008" cold.
Those Poulans had an issue with blow by, from seeing all the original pistons carbon browned on the sides from the combustion gases.
Of course they've been cutting wood for over 30 years now!
Those Poulans had an issue with blow by, from seeing all the original pistons carbon browned on the sides from the combustion gases.
Of course they've been cutting wood for over 30 years now!
I think a lot of what your seeing is 30 years of 16-1 dino as well.
LOL, Texaco Havoline red & white cans of SAE 30 straight weight is all Dad used in his mix, that makes it even worse.
I remember because they looked like Campbells Tomato soup cans...but had a star on the front
I remember because they looked like Campbells Tomato soup cans...but had a star on the front
I remember those
got a question for yall. put new seals in my 361 today. didn't cut the 5523 skl seal down. original width is 0.125 whereas the 5523 is 0.188. now it extends up. wondering do I need to take it out and cut 0.063 off another new one and put it in or will it work like it is. I'm concerned with top clearance.
ImNotASwede
ImNotaSwede
Sounds an issue with the impulse. Just my $.02Did some cutting today, older 5200 would not draw fuel from tank, just put new fuel line on it last week, ran great before that . 4000 ran great as usual. 8500 ran great also
