Jon1212
Riff Raff Fart Knocker from other Forum's.
Well that makes me feel like a dolt. My sorry.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm glad to hear it, wish that I had the spare $$ for one.
Have you considered a more detailed description, explaining the dents and overall condition? The reason I say that, not to be a Richard Cranium, is some other folks will look at it and might also think it's a mix of new & used parts.
Stephen C.
ArboristSite Lurker
Wow and you have several! Most of my saws cost less than that. I supose I need to part them out. Hate to do it but they seem to be worth 10 times as much in parts.
i agree but i have never done that to a saw. I have always fixed the saws I acquire and use them. I see folks parting out good running saws and it makes me sick. The parts I have are from NOS dealer inventory that i have acquired to restore my saws and pass on to help others restore theirs.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
People do that. It might work be$t if you end up with $ome very rare part$. A complete muffler for a Poulan 306 & 245, esp NOS, happens to be nearly impossible to find.
My complete with B&C Dayton-badged Poulan 245SA cost not a lot more. The good news is the muffler on it is in great condition. Although I think I have a 306 with no muffler at all.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
what do you guys use a a oil line replacement in micro/poulan 2000 saws i used tygon but its not standing up in the crank case.... thank you.....
Yep, often better to buy a whole parts saw on the 245s and 306's. Simple things like a muffler or an air filter in good condition can be very hard to find, or cost nearly as much as some parts saws. Plus, the mufflers can be either the cast or the stamped kind and if you aren't aware of the differences you can end up with mismatched parts.
People have even been known to fudge a bit.
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Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep. That's why I bought the 306, for parts even though the muffler is missing, or to get running if I happen into a spare muffler.
Some times the little extra $$ you spend on a saw--depending on it's condition and what parts are there--makes more sense than tracking down individual parts. I even take into consideration the bar & chains since I don't have a large stash of 'em.
All is understandable but some folks like to restore their saws as shelf queens and needs these parts if available. I have both but enjoy running them all. Most of these saws were $300 plus when new so a $50.00 part to fix it properly should be no big deal in my book
What I really enjoy is when guys buy saws at flea markets, yard sales etc for cheap $ that are not runners and need parts to fix them and say. wow that is expensive for that NOS part, I do not have that much into the whole saw. Duh it is broken and that is why you picked it up cheap and need the part to fix it. Again a $300 plus saw when new. Well worth $100.00 to get it going correctly in my opinion.
....five bux and then don't wanna put any money into em!
Didn't think you were going to finish your last post, but glad to know we're on the same page!
Yeah, that's sort of the mentality. didn't pay anything for it, so it must not be worth putting anything into it!
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
56cc or more of American Muscle gone through and in wood for a hundo sounds good to me.
I'm not sure why the Tygon isn't holding up as the oil shouldn't bother it. What's it doing that it fails? If you want to try something else you can buy some nitrile or neopene fuel line (Echo or some is listed as Homelite) that's used on some outdoor power equipment. I usually keep some of it around for impulse line.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
ILikesEmGreen
Another crazy Poulan Fan
Tygon branded "Tygon", or "yella fuel line" "Tygon"? Just curious if that'd make a difference or not. Not saying you are using "yella". Lol
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Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
real stuff
roosterhog
ArboristSite Operative
I'm kinda dumb...just warning you...the line is only in the oil tank right? It just delivers oil from the oil tank (not crankcase) thru the opening to the bar I thought. No real heat or misery there. The duckbill valve is what takes the beating and not the line. How long did it take your line to get brittle? I would think it should last a few years. Like maybe 3 years.
