Nik's Poulan Thread

[ANewSawyer]

Have a looksy: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/craftsman-3-7-rebuild-lots-of-pics.302206/

 

[blk05crew]

Piston and rings came today for the craftsman 4.2.

 

[CJH]

Has anyone seen or reproduced the decals for a 2300? New style, black background, green, blue and red stripes, green Poulan lettering.

Googled to no avail. Chainsawr has the older type, blue/gold type.

Thanks!

 

[ANewSawyer]

Does anybody know what the acceptable ring end gap is for a twin thin ring Craftsman 3.7/3700? I have the service manual and it doesn't say.

 

[Acornhill]

Does anybody know what the acceptable ring end gap is for a twin thin ring Craftsman 3.7/3700? I have the service manual and it doesn't say.

Check compression if above 135 your good with that saw. If not install new rings

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[Acornhill]

455 has my ears ringing today

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[ANewSawyer]

Well, I screwed up two seals. They keep going in cockeyed. I think I will split the case and bevel it, like I have seen done on here. These are unforgiving compared to the seals on my T25. And the case is being stubborn. May give it over for the night.

 

[3000 FPS]

Well, I screwed up two seals. They keep going in cockeyed. I think I will split the case and bevel it, like I have seen done on here. These are unforgiving compared to the seals on my T25. And the case is being stubborn. May give it over for the night.

I use a deep well socket that I ground the edge down on so it is nice and flat. I put in a lot of those seals and I just tap them in slow and easy and usually have no problems.

 

[leecopland]

Picked up a Poulan Pro 405 (65cc) which sadly has some issues, the worst of which is a broken lower case which leaks bar oil and of course affects overall rigidity. P&C are fine looking. Which other Poulan Pro and Pioneers saws use the same case? This info would make my search so much easier.

 

[Hoggwood]

Well, I screwed up two seals. They keep going in cockeyed.

An large fender washer between the socket and seal can also help just before you drive them home. It finishes them off flush and alleviates the chance of driving one side in too far. I use a stepped-bit to drill the washer out to the appropriate crank size.

 

[ANewSawyer]

It is like one side hangs and can't be dislodged. It is like the seal just stops. The whole rest of the seal keep going but the one spot just won't budge. There may be something about the case that I can't see. Same spot every time. I have check repeatedly for a burr but can't feel one. This is only the second time I have driven seals. I guess everybody ruins a couple their firstcouple of times.

 

[ANewSawyer]

3400 seals

Well, I found some aftermarket seals from Timken. Bought 6 and have already ruined 2. They don't seem as durable in installation as OEM but it could be me. Tried installing them using a socket as a driving tool but they went in at an angle. Think I need a socket drive size that'll fit up side down over the crankshaft so I can use the top end to seat the seal. Seems like I'll need at least a 3/4 in drive but I'll have to measure. So far wasted $10.00 and I'm not done yet.
Bob

. @redunshee I found this post from back in 2010 while searching for info on seal driving. I am using the same Timken/National 253747 seals and am having no fun trying to get them to go straight. One side slips in by hand pressure and the other hangs, ruining the seal. I am about ready to burn something, four seals I have ham fistedly, son of toil destroyed. Did you ever have any luck with the 253747 seals? Do you remember?

 

[Acornhill]

Picked up a Poulan Pro 405 (65cc) which sadly has some issues, the worst of which is a broken lower case which leaks bar oil and of course affects overall rigidity. P&C are fine looking. Which other Poulan Pro and Pioneers saws use the same case? This info would make my search so much easier.

the 455 for sure, not sure about the others, they have different part #'s, some have different flywheel / coil set ups.

 

[Hoggwood]

SKF 6119 are a bit more forgiving when fitting into the seal pocket. 253747 have a slightly larger OD.

 

[redunshee]

Have a looksy: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/craftsman-3-7-rebuild-lots-of-pics.302206/

Only reason to split the case is to replace the bearings. Very unusual to have to replace them though. After washing just blow everything dry and you'll be good to go. I use compressed air to clean my saws. If u put a slight champ her on the case bosses it'll make installing the seals a little easier. That's ModifiedMarks idea.

 

[redunshee]

. @redunshee I found this post from back in 2010 while searching for info on seal driving. I am using the same Timken/National 253747 seals and am having no fun trying to get them to go straight. One side slips in by hand pressure and the other hangs, ruining the seal. I am about ready to burn something, four seals I have ham fistedly, son of toil destroyed. Did you ever have any luck with the 253747 seals? Do you remember?

Yea, I use the Skf /seal now. Find it easier to install. I still use a little Dirko when installing them.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Would you mind to tell me the SKF part #? Please? I could really use something easier to install

 

[Majorpayne]

Would you mind to tell me the SKF part #? Please? I could really use something easier to install

Just wondering if it would help to put them in freezer like it does for bearings?

 

[Acornhill]

Just wondering if it would help to put them in freezer like it does for bearings?

why don't you just use the factory seals?

 

[redunshee]

why don't you just use the factory seals?

Can u still get them? Thought they were NLA?