Nik's Poulan Thread

[Kostas]

I am not sure,i can measure it tomorrow.Its like this since i got it (maybe it was May 2013 iirc) and it has 30 tanks or so since then,piston is like when i got it,like new.I never got the chance to dig into it but how is this movement possible?

 

[s sidewall]

It's worn out so I'll give you $20 for it with free shipping. [emoji6]

Steve

 

[redunshee]

I am not sure,i can measure it tomorrow.Its like this since i got it (maybe it was May 2013 iirc) and it has 30 tanks or so since then,piston is like when i got it,like new.I never got the chance to dig into it but how is this movement possible?

it's fine. Run it

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[s sidewall]

it's fine. Run it

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[emoji21]

Steve

 

[hotshot]

how is this movement possible?

The ball bearings aren’t an interference fit in your Poulan case halves, like the $tihl saws, so some play is normal.

If it’s bothersome to you, you can always pull the jug and see if the crank is moving in the bearing IDs, or if the bearings ODs are moving back & forth in the case bores.

The bearings really should be a tight in the case halve bores, & the crank should move in the bearings’ IDs.

There’s ZERO end play in this 5200, only because the crankshaft is rusted to the ID of the bearings, lol. It’s getting a brand new crank & new bearings installed tomorrow...

 

[Kostas]

Thank you guys for the answers,really appreciate it.I think the crank is moving in the ID's of the bearings.I've had removed the jug when i got the saw to replace the rings and i remember this.I am asking because i am having a few carb problems and i was thinking to buy a WJ 71 from a 394xp which is 100$ plus a bar and some other stuff.I really like the 4200,they built them like a tank.

 

[Kostas]

How much movement does it have, my 4200 has. 009 thou . There isn't any way to adjust it so I just let it run.

You are correct,mine has also 0,23 mm play which if i am not mistaken is 0,009 in.When i got the saw it was extremely low hours saw so i assumed it must be normal but i saw a post in here about a makita 6401 which had the exact same problem and the owner was fighting some air leak problems.I also have some problems which point to air leak and once i found the crankshaft play,i thought to ask.Anyway,thanks again all of you guys.

 

[s sidewall]

Wonder if it could be shimmed with brass washers to get it down to .003 play hot.
Sort of like the 34, 37, 38 and 4000 series.
Steve

 

[Todd Loosli]

On my 4200 I cut some brass shim stock to make bearing spacers that went behind the bearing, though it was going to be about. 006 but came out to. 009. Maybe if I tighten the case bolts again I might get it to be better. My shim stock was. 006 and one on each side. It was way loose at the start when I got it. Your clearance may be different

 

[Kostas]

The guy i bought my 4200 said he bought it new and used it only for a couple of tanks.Mine as i said is roughly .009 play.What you and Steve said,is the way KTM built the LC4 engine.Because of the roller bearings on the crankshaft,you adjust the play with shims,not sure if they are brass but i think it could work on these saws.

 

[s sidewall]

Brass wears better and is a softer metal than steel shims. KTM probably used brass also for that reason.

Steve

 

[Todd Loosli]

If you put the shims in like I did behind the bearing they never move or wear out. Cut to fit the OD and a hole bigger than the ID of the bearing that is all that's needed. I wouldn't mess with the saw with. 009 play, just not worth it.

 

[Kostas]

Yeah,i won't open the saw,just saying.

 

[hotshot]

On my 4200 I cut some brass shim stock to make bearing spacers that went behind the bearing, though it was going to be about. 006 but came out to. 009. Maybe if I tighten the case bolts again I might get it to be better. My shim stock was. 006 and one on each side. It was way loose at the start when I got it. Your clearance may be different

Did your saw have the steel ring inserts pressed into both the case halves?, this one I just split did.

Fought me all the way due to severe rust & corrosion, but the corroded cases will clean up & another green saw will live again.



Edit, I used no heat for disassembly, just both splitter tools, but will definitely heat the halves up to 275F for 15-20 minutes before reassembly. They’ll just drop in.

 

[Todd Loosli]

Yes it had them. I didn't use enough heat when taking the bearing out or going back in, I was chicken and if I ever do another I'll get it hotter.

 

[Todd Loosli]

Best quote from Hotshot, "another green saw will live again "

 

[fossil]

Yeah,i won't open the saw,just saying.

Hi Kostas. It's been a while.

 

[Kostas]

Hi Kostas. It's been a while.

Hi Tim,you are right.Some family and work stuff kept me away.I am really happy to be back and even more to see you are still around.I was a lurker around the forums for quite some time,i just didn't have the time to mess with saws and replay here.I only wish Modifiedmark,OhioGregg,rms61moparman and a couple others still be around.I hope they and their families are ok.I hope the same for you Tim.

 

[fossil]

Hi Tim,you are right.Some family and work stuff kept me away.I am really happy to be back and even more to see you are still around.I was a lurker around the forums for quite some time,i just didn't have the time to mess with saws and replay here.I only wish Modifiedmark,OhioGregg,rms61moparman and a couple others still be around.I hope they and their families are ok.I hope the same for you Tim.

All is well here. Thanks.

Mopar Mike comes on once in a while and Mark is very busy at work but he's around. Gregg hasn't been on for some time but I believe he is OK.

Good to see you back.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Just seen these and thought the round bar was little different. So sharing.