Nik's Poulan Thread

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I ended up leaving the manual oiler for now. It works well. It's not hard to get to if it starts struggling. The diaphragm seemed stiff on the auto oiler so I'm glad its replaced. Should hopefully help. I'm not touching the crank seals right now either. I have 4 of them on standby. They have the overspray red on them still. Should crank it tomorrow.

Buddy is coming over Friday to help clear the trees we brought down so I wanna run a tank or so through this before he comes over for the big stuff. Have a fresh chain coming too.
 
When you pressure tested the crankcase, did you spray soapy water on the crank seals and move the crank around?

Steve Sidwell

I can. Not doing it tonight. If I see bubbles then yay crank seals. I've been avoiding it as I see me struggling with them and throwing something.
 
Been sitting in a straight chair all day, bought gone crazy not able to go to work today. Messed my backup again doing floor work. If I can get out of bed in the morning I'll head in. Much rather go finish working on my daughter's late fiancee's saw than working on a car.

Steve Sidwell
 
The 4000 is pulling a 20 inch and she cuts well but I feel the clutch is starting to go. It seems rather easy to stall the chain compared to my other saws. Is there anything I can do to get it biting better or just need new shoes?

Pull the clutch off and clean up the drum, shoes and spider so the shoes are sliding well and the oily sludge is gone.

You would have to pull the garter spring to do that but they aren't hard to get back on.

Sometimes they get full of crud.
 
Hi there. I just acquired a Poulan Pro 4218AVX chainsaw and it is a bit rough. It appears to have been left outside for some time. I cleaned it up quickly and it does run off the gas when poured in the plug hole or in the carburetor. I was happy. So I went to fill the tank up with fuel and when about to do so, I noticed the fuel line was a bit rotten. So would anybody here happen to know the size and diameter of fule line needed for this saw. I am away on holidays buy would like to try and pick some up from town in a day or two when I go there. Also, inside the tank, there is a fuel line joiner(double ended barbed). Can I omit this and just run a straight piece of fuel line? I will be replacing all the fuel lines while apart anyways. Thank you.

Duplicate post from chainsaw forum. If required, please delete from Chainsaw forum. My apologies.
 
Pull the clutch off and clean up the drum, shoes and spider so the shoes are sliding well and the oily sludge is gone.

You would have to pull the garter spring to do that but they aren't hard to get back on.

Sometimes they get full of crud.

Thanks Tim will give it a go its slowly getting worse to the point where it's a struggle to keep a nice self feeding full chisel chain moving. I don't just sit there n let it slip eather is there any way I can re surface the shoes?
 
I would help ya but it's been a long time since I replaced fuel lines on one of those. All three lines were the same size but I do remember some of them used a smaller line in the tank, hence the barb fitting to connect to a bigger line and to seal the fuel line hole as the line is connected to the barbed fitting and pulled back through to seal.

Steve Sidwell
 
I would help ya but it's been a long time since I replaced fuel lines on one of those. All three lines were the same size but I do remember some of them used a smaller line in the tank, hence the barb fitting to connect to a bigger line and to seal the fuel line hole as the line is connected to the barbed fitting and pulled back through to seal.

Thank you for the information. If mine was one of those that used different sized lines, would there be any known problem if I used a single line that sealed well and omit the barbed fitting? This would eliminate anypossible failure for me. Thank you again.

Steve Sidwell
 
Thanks Tim will give it a go its slowly getting worse to the point where it's a struggle to keep a nice self feeding full chisel chain moving. I don't just sit there n let it slip eather is there any way I can re surface the shoes?

I would rough up the the drum and the shoes with some emery cloth after you get the crud out.

Is the drum getting thin?
 
Posted this in the oiler thread but if I get around to it, I'm going to take the original oil diaphragm from my 3700 and make a drawing of it so I can cut out new ones with my cutting machine. Should result in pretty good recreations. I just need to get around to it and buy a sheet of the material.
 
Yes Todd is right I found this out the other day, it allows positive and negative pressure from the pump piston to breathe and not allow large contaminants to enter. Just like how pcv works in and engine minus the check valve
 

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