Nik's Poulan Thread

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What little I've played with the newer plastic models I would start at 2 full turns out on both needles and go from there. I think on the only one I own (PP295) I settled on 1-1/2 on high and around 2 out on low.
I think that model is the best of the bunch on the home owner Poulans. Very light and very peppy. I think some of the smaller ones they make now could oil a 48" bar. It's like a red flood.
 
You are doing fine.
I'm working on a 3314 at this time, needs a carb kit, but what little I have run it there didn't seem to be much. I can tell you more tomorrow after I get it running better

That would be great thank you I have picked up a bunch of theses poulan 42cc saws . But have yet to run one. So I'm not sure how bad they vibrate.
 
What's the deal with the "double barrel" carburetor on the P4018WT? Never seen anything like it.

There was one in a pile of saws I bought at an auction for $10, and I'm seeing how little I can spend on it to get it running. It's missing the tube connecting the second barrel with the adapter. Had good spark, pops on a prime of "magic mix." Even had it running for about 5 seconds but it was idling at about half throttle. I'm betting it's sucking air around the second barrel.
 
What's the deal with the "double barrel" carburetor on the P4018WT? Never seen anything like it.

There was one in a pile of saws I bought at an auction for $10, and I'm seeing how little I can spend on it to get it running. It's missing the tube connecting the second barrel with the adapter. Had good spark, pops on a prime of "magic mix." Even had it running for about 5 seconds but it was idling at about half throttle. I'm betting it's sucking air around the second barrel.
Strato saw.... I just finished working on one. I found it was cheaper to buy a whole new carb than to get a kit to re-build the old one.
Can't help on the intake tube.
 
Can't help on the intake tube.

Figured out a quick fix: GORILLA TAPE!

It's running. For a cheap consumer grade saw it seems like it's got some snot. Now if only I had a bar and chain for it.

$1.46 for the saw (gotta factor in the 10% buyer's premium). $.01 for the Gorilla tape intake tube. $39.88 for a bar and chain... Somethin' aint' right here.
 
I'm kinda one of those people.lol but I'm trying to learn so I'm not what's a good video or read on how to tune these things i don't much if any tuning a saw. I have a littl 3314 the I muffler moded so I know it will need a tune but. I cant fund a good video on it. Thank you
 
Start with the L turn up the idle a bit now turn in the Low till it starts running faster n faster now go back to that point now go the other way... until it starts getting slow and burbles lower n lower now go half way between those two points.

Now set the high wind it out a quarter and hold it full throttle for a brief moment and see how it's revving with a clear four stroke rev limit kind of sound. Now keep doing this and wind it in a touch do it again and in and over n over until its revving nice and hard but still has that little cackle/limit/ four stroking miss fire. To test your ears go past that point it should go waaaaa and sound thin with no four stroke and screaming. That's lean and will kill it go back out till that limiter noise is back.

Check this in the wood it should burble under no load and then in wood it will clean up and run smoothly.

Now set your idle.

It takes a balance remember so when you're hi is good and you're low is rich if you correct the low your also taking away from the total fuel on the hi side so add a wee bit of gas to the hi.

Do this around n around for half an hour with some wood and you will get it.

Hope this is of some help I'm not a good writer and probably forgot stuff
 
The type of people that run those saws usually haven't much of a clue about engines or keeping a chain sharp or a lean saw and burn it up that's my guess anyway lol

That's it in a nutshell. These saws get a bad rap from the "pros" without consideration for the average person running the saws. They tell people who have no clue to skip the "junk" and go out and buy some antique professional saw. They'll burn that up just as quick as the $179 Home Depot special.

Found my bar and chain BTW... Forgot the saw came with one. I took it off because it was gunked. Soaking the chain in PB blaster right now.
 
That's it in a nutshell. These saws get a bad rap from the "pros" without consideration for the average person running the saws. They tell people who have no clue to skip the "junk" and go out and buy some antique professional saw. They'll burn that up just as quick as the $179 Home Depot special.

Found my bar and chain BTW... Forgot the saw came with one. I took it off because it was gunked. Soaking the chain in PB blaster right now.

Yeap do ya learning on junk saws that way you don't ruin valuable stuff. I had a 52cc china saw that lasted 5 years of newbieness
 
Best just get the rubber tube for the top air throttle bore so you don't take a chance of it leaning out more. Only thing that goes through that top one is air for the stratos feature. If air get gets drawn through a bad tape joint, the tuning will change leaning out the saw. Too much lean and it will toast the cylinder and piston.

Steve Sidwell
 
Best just get the rubber tube for the top air throttle bore so you don't take a chance of it leaning out more. Only thing that goes through that top one is air for the stratos feature. If air get gets drawn through a bad tape joint, the tuning will change leaning out the saw. Too much lean and it will toast the cylinder and piston.

Steve Sidwell

Thanks, I'll keep an eye on it for now. It's got two full wraps of tape that cover the entire tube from adapter to carb, and it's Gorilla tape. Once that stuff is stuck, it's stuck. When something sticks to a plastic tarp, you know it's sticky. With just air going through there I don't have to worry about fuel melting the adhesive.
 

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