Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So I've been contemplating getting my grandfathers countervibe 3700 back in running condition.
Can somebody measure the ID, OD and thickness of the washer that holds the starter pulley on to the case? I think mine has a bush fix in it and the washer may not be the correct one causing the starter to mess up.

Other then that I think all I need is a new fuel cap and it's ready to go.
Thanks.
 
Sans new gas cap and a proper sized washer for the starter pulley, I tried to start the 'ole girl tonight.
Forgot what a pig that thing is to pull over compared to my CS400.
Had to fish the old duckbill fitting and fuel line out of tank 1st. No duckbill so gotta order a couple of those, but for now I stuck a new piece of line in there with the fitting so I didnt have fuel going everywhere.
Compression is about 125ish (due to surgery to remove a part of my left lung in Jan I dont have a lot of strength to pull on that cord to many times) after 4-5 pulls at wot. Not great but should run.
Checked spark. Not a bright blue, but again should be enough to light it up. Need to buy to high tension lead as the existing cap and spring ripped out, trying to remove cap as it's been shortened it seems.
Reset carb to one turn out on each.
Pulled it over a dozen times and no joy. I can smell fuel on the plug, but it wasnt real wet.
Thinking now I need to hunt down a rebuild kit for it just to have it.

It's to late to look now, but IIRC it has the HDB10-1 carb. Can anybody verify this? Wont have a chance to get back to the saw for a week and I'd like to get a rebuild kit coming. Again going from memory Poulan listed 2 kits on the ipl, one ended in a 113 the other 127. I have the ipl on my PC at work, but I think the 127 was a more complete kit and the one I should order correct?

Anything else I should look at? Dont have a way to do leak down or vacuum test yet. Was hoping I could get it running before doing those tests.

Thanks.
 
Thinking now I need to hunt down a rebuild kit for it just to have it.

It's to late to look now, but IIRC it has the HDB10-1 carb. Can anybody verify this? Wont have a chance to get back to the saw for a week and I'd like to get a rebuild kit coming. Again going from memory Poulan listed 2 kits on the ipl, one ended in a 113 the other 127. I have the ipl on my PC at work, but I think the 127 was a more complete kit and the one I should order correct?

Anything else I should look at? Dont have a way to do leak down or vacuum test yet. Was hoping I could get it running before doing those tests.

Thanks.

Likely that the intake gasket at cylinder head or the crank seals are leaking due to the saws age, and it cannot properly feed itself.

Your saw needs pressure & vac tested FIRST, BEFORE trying to run it.

The Walbro carb number you quoted is not right, probably a HDB-8 carb that uses a K10-HDB rebuild kit. Two different circuit plate gaskets are supplied in that universal kit, so match them up to your carb.

That 530015123 starter washer is just a standard #10 machine bolt washer, if I remember correctly...hardware store item. The plastic starter pulley bore where it rides is 5/8”.
 
I set my first poulan 415 I had bought from original owner today back up with original bar it came with when he bought it at TSC. I had bought it in a box after loosing fight with tree long ago.

Just so folks could see how they were sold at one time in the FB group. The small dawg is the dawg I run for 16" bar. Forgot to put the medium dawg on.

p41524.jpgp415244.jpg
 
Likely that the intake gasket at cylinder head or the crank seals are leaking due to the saws age, and it cannot properly feed itself.

Your saw needs pressure & vac tested FIRST, BEFORE trying to run it.

The Walbro carb number you quoted is not right, probably a HDB-8 carb that uses a K10-HDB rebuild kit. Two different circuit plate gaskets are supplied in that universal kit, so match them up to your carb.

That 530015123 starter washer is just a standard #10 machine bolt washer, if I remember correctly...hardware store item. The plastic starter pulley bore where it rides is 5/8”.
Been thinking about getting a Mityvac, just never really had the need for it so I never bothered. Been tinkering with small engines lately for f&f so I'll probably just buck up and get one.
I remember seeing the p/n for the crank seals in this thread, so I'll go back to find it then see what's available for the intake gasket and order some up just to have them.
I was going off memory on the carb so no surprise I had things crossed up.

I remember the last time I tried to start it a few yrs ago the pulley came off and I got p.o. so I threw the saw on a shelf and forgot about it. Whatever my grandfather has in there must not be quite big enough allowing it to slide over. I'll grab a few different washers when I head back to my father's this weekend and maybe something will work.

Is the high tension lead actually replaceable? I remember see a p/n on the p.l., but my experience with small engines is that they are usually one piece with the coil. I might be able to scrounge up one of my unused leads I used to keep when I raced motox. and slide it right in there.
Thanks for the info/help hotshot. With it I may just get this thing running. Don't need it as I have an Echo that does what I need, but it brings back memories and I may pass it to my son in a few yrs.
 
@Maintenance supervisor , are you the same maintenance supervisor on Amazon? Looking at a carb rebuild kit for my 3700 and when I read the reviews on one of them I saw your handle and was curious. :D:D
Yup that's me if the picture is a couple of old chainsaws. Sometimes I take some liberty's with my reviews.
 
I remember seeing the p/n for the crank seals in this thread, so I'll go back to find it then see what's available for the intake gasket and order some up just to have.

Is the high tension lead actually replaceable? I remember see a p/n on the p.l., but my experience with small engines is that they are usually one piece with the coil. I might be able to scrounge up one of my unused leads I used to keep when I raced motox. and slide it right in there.

The crank seals are the same on each side, SKF 6119. Lightly chamfer the seal bores before putting them in first, using a pocket knife or 3 sided file.

Avoid the Timken/Nationals 253747 seal, as it bends & deforms too easily during installation. The sheet metal on them have been cheapened to about 1/2 the thickness that they were, and are now made in Mexico.

Intake gasket is a 530019101 & those two intake flange bolts like to loosen up over time & ruin the gasket. Use blue loctite.

I’ve never tried to remove a 3700 plug wire from a coil, but just looking at one, they're glued in for sure.
 
Hey guys

With big thanks to a kind member down here another 3400 showed up at the door. It runs but needs some love before she's fighting again.
20200528_220658.jpg20200528_220722.jpg20200528_220742.jpg
That makes three together and 1 basket case. Basket case is probably a generous name for the other 1 but that's four. Am I in yet? :)
 
Hey guys

With big thanks to a kind member down here another 3400 showed up at the door. It runs but needs some love before she's fighting again.
View attachment 831524View attachment 831525View attachment 831526
That makes three together and 1 basket case. Basket case is probably a generous name for the other 1 but that's four. Am I in yet? :)

Is it a collective you want to be "IN"? :laugh:
Bit of Kiwi ingenuity with the air filter element, few cans of degreaser or brakeclean and you are good to go by the looks....... another Limecicle lives to play another decade or three.

Oh, find a nut for the toggle kill switch as well...... before it shocks you into next week! :dancing:
 
Back
Top