Diaphragms are shot, rebuilding cheap Zamas seems to be hit-and-miss so I was curious if this carb was worth rebuilding or if I should just replace it.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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My only experience with that strato carb is that I took a decent metering diaphram out of my pp4018 to put in my friends 4218 to fix it .
Seemed to be easy enough to clean and work on . The fuel filter was partially clogged so it needed a new fuel filter .
Have you looked at the piston , ring and cylinder ?
Nope. It has good compression and the owner only uses it for cutting mesquite every once in a blue moon so I'm not too worried about p/c condition.
Couple questions for all the Poulan guys. Did you know that the Wright Blade Saws were a division of Beard Poulan. They are/were. When asked if you can convert one to a chainsaw, the usual answer is no, they are direct drive off the crank with no clutch. OK, I can live with that. But people do stuff all the time that can't be done. Not long ago, someone on AS posted a transmission on ebay for a scooter, $35. I've been busy all spring so the gears in my head have been spinning slowly. Have you guessed where I'm going with this? I looked on ebay and they have gear drive transmissions up to 150CC's for $135. I wonder What a115CC wright blade saw would look and run like with a new after market gear drive on it?
I just happen to have been given a wright blade saw here about a week ago. I have not had time to look it over yet but it is big and heavy.
Yep, they are big and heavy. One of the biggest markets for them was slaughter houses. I posted a pic of mine on a tractor site, and the next day a guy said his Amish neighbor asked if I had any extra blades. He still uses one to slaughter cattle.
A couple of pics of the blade saw.
Here's mine, yours might be older?
I recently got a Craftsman 2.3 18" (358.356230) and I'm interested if anyone has knowledge of what i should see looking into the exhaust port.
Attached images show the saw and a serial number on the block, and several views into the exhaust port. Of particular interest in the brown residue between the ring and the top of the piston. Normal deposits?
Other relevant info:
Previous user tried to get it going with no bar oil, straight gasoline, no air filter, and a botched fuel line repair (using the wrong materials and no filter/weight). Fortunately he gave up failing.
I rebuilt the carb and fuel system, but without an example of where the filter should hang, I made a best guess from what I did with the 2.0 rebuild.
Has not been run yet, but when it tried to fire on carb cleaner, I assume it will fire right up when asked.
Attached images show the saw and a serial number on the block, and several views into the exhaust port. Of particular interest in the brown residue between the ring and the top of the piston. Normal deposits?
Other relevant info:
Previous user tried to get it going with no bar oil, straight gasoline, no air filter, and a botched fuel line repair (using the wrong materials and no filter/weight). Fortunately he gave up failing.
I rebuilt the carb and fuel system, but without an example of where the filter should hang, I made a best guess from what I did with the 2.0 rebuild.
Has not been run yet, but when it tried to fire on carb cleaner, I assume it will fire right up when asked.
Attachments
Don't run of carb cleaner or starting fluid. Just mixed fuel.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
The filter goes in front of the carb, in the rectangular opening. Filters are available. Don't use starting fluid. ONly premix.
Hand pull-over tells you something about compression. Hearing engine attempt to start tells you something about most systems.
I did it to prove out my next course of action. Wouldn't bother rebuilding fuel system if something bigger needed repair.
Agreed that it's always better to have oil in your fuel.
I did it to prove out my next course of action. Wouldn't bother rebuilding fuel system if something bigger needed repair.
Agreed that it's always better to have oil in your fuel.
Ijpom, here’s an attached Craftsman 358.356230 saw manual, with an IPL at the end listing part nos.
It’s from the searspartsdirect site, surprised they still have these manuals available.
It’s from the searspartsdirect site, surprised they still have these manuals available.
Thanks for the manual
I get a 3 pack of plastic syringes from Ace, to shoot mix in the carb, or plug hole. So much easier than trying to drip the fuel in.
I just use oil cans with flex tube and triggers. Used to use them with alky when raced chainsaws. Both just have mix in them now.
See one to right
See one to right
Guy selling a 203 in my group if interested. I will get info for ya. Just PM. Also 306 245.
Video there running cutting.
Video there running cutting.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Any chance of the premix degrading the line? I like ur idea.
Been using them close to 15 years. 2 of them. One even was alky for 4 of those years.
Info from today at TSC,
The Goldenrod 56117 Pistol Pump Oiler comes with a flexible spout. This oiler has a powder coated red finish and leak-proof joints. The Goldenrod oiler features a flared bottom to prevent tipping.
- 6 oz. size
- Flexible spout
- Pistol pump oiler with a powder coated red finish
- Leak-proof joints
- Goldenrod oiler comes with a flared bottom to prevent tipping
Liked your idea enough to look it up. Starting with mix is only a sometimes thing, so it would get lots of storage between uses.
But the real killer is the golden plated price! My not so local, TSC charges $15 for this device. In my mind, that 1/2 of another parts saw.
I'm going to try a dollar store plastic squirt bottle and only fill it when I need it.
But the real killer is the golden plated price! My not so local, TSC charges $15 for this device. In my mind, that 1/2 of another parts saw.
I'm going to try a dollar store plastic squirt bottle and only fill it when I need it.
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