Nik's Poulan Thread

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Was pulling bare topends and all 3 were 49cc. Was suppose to have been 1 54cc in there. Oh well not much lost.

Took a good pic of the HD 3 shoe 380 3450 3750 etc.

 

[Patrick1903]

This has been for sale in the Washington DC area for a long time. Figured someone on here may be interested.
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/clt/d/alexandria-vintage-poulan-pro-sign/7446455019.html

 

[redunshee]

My PP 405 runs great but It doesn’t seem to want to oil. Removed the oil pump(looks okey), blew out output hole in crankcase and removed and cleaned pickup line. Still no oil. All gears look okey, so I’m buffaloed. I was also surprised to find out the the clutch threads are not left handed.

 

[3000 FPS]

never come across a saw that did not have left hand threads for the clutch to screw on to the crank.

 

[fossil]

No LH threads required on that series as the clutch sits on a splined shaft.

 

[3000 FPS]

No LH threads required on that series as the clutch sits on a splined shaft.

Thanks Tim I did not know that. So if it is a splined shaft that means there are no threads at all right or left for the clutch.

 

[fossil]

My PP 405 runs great but It doesn’t seem to want to oil. Removed the oil pump(looks okey), blew out output hole in crankcase and removed and cleaned pickup line. Still no oil. All gears look okey, so I’m buffaloed. I was also surprised to find out the the clutch threads are not left handed.

A few thoughts on that.

Does the oil flow adjusting screw turn with some resistance or is it really free? If it's free the "O" ring in there might have deteriorated causing an air leak. To get the adjusting screw out, you will need to drive a little roll pin out of the oiler case.

Make sure the gasket is in good shape, or you may be getting an air leak there.

When you reinstalled the pump, you need to have the saw standing on it's nose tilted a bit towards the starter when you feed the tank pickup line back or it won't be in the right spot to pick up oil.

Failing that, you should likely take the pump apart and clean any passages out and make sure the spring on the gear shaft is intact.

 

[fossil]

Thanks Tim I did not know that. So if it is a splined shaft that means there are no threads at all right or left for the clutch.

Hi Roger,
The nut just pins the clutch to the splines and it can't spin on the shaft.

Pioneer used to put left hand threads on the FW nut back in the 60's on some models. I find that kind of odd.

 

[redunshee]

No LH threads required on that series as the clutch sits on a splined shaft.

Yea, I forgot to clarify that fact. The nut keeping the clutch on is right handed.

 

[redunshee]

A few thoughts on that.

Does the oil flow adjusting screw turn with some resistance or is it really free? If it's free the "O" ring in there might have deteriorated causing an air leak. To get the adjusting screw out, you will need to drive a little roll pin out of the oiler case.

Make sure the gasket is in good shape, or you may be getting an air leak there.

When you reinstalled the pump, you need to have the saw standing on it's nose tilted a bit towards the starter when you feed the tank pickup line back or it won't be in the right spot to pick up oil.

Failing that, you should likely take the pump apart and clean any passages out and make sure the spring on the gear shaft is intact.

View attachment 968565

Thanks Tim. I’ll tear it apart.

 

[redunshee]

A few thoughts on that.

Does the oil flow adjusting screw turn with some resistance or is it really free? If it's free the "O" ring in there might have deteriorated causing an air leak. To get the adjusting screw out, you will need to drive a little roll pin out of the oiler case.

Make sure the gasket is in good shape, or you may be getting an air leak there.

When you reinstalled the pump, you need to have the saw standing on it's nose tilted a bit towards the starter when you feed the tank pickup line back or it won't be in the right spot to pick up oil.

Failing that, you should likely take the pump apart and clean any passages out and make sure the spring on the gear shaft is intact.

View attachment 968565

I wonder if its as simple as me not inserting the pickup line correctly?

 

[fossil]

I wonder if its as simple as me not inserting the pickup line correctly?

Could be Bob. The oil tank is high on those saws.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I've seen 2 different 358 numbers on those craftsman 3.7 60cc saws now. Today was the first for the 358.351240 all of mine been 358.351242
Havent found any difference yet. Was just helping a member in my CRG FB get right ring.

Thread where I save all the info on these. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/craftsman-3-7-60cc-24'/

One of my couple of the 3 set I used to do. 3500 3.7 365

 

[DSW]

Has anyone had any luck trying to clean up a 4200 cylinder?

 

[Todd Loosli]

This was a 5400 but the repair was the same. I looked on utube for how to do it.

 

[DSW]

Thanks Todd. I just looked at it and it doesn't look as bad as I was expecting. It's not stuck, there is some scoring but not as much as I was expecting. Of course this is only looking through the muffler, I don't have it off. The muffler itself is rough. Not that I have time but it has the look that makes you nervous to start turning some tools.

 

[DSW]

Separate topic but I'm gonna be selling a 3.7 soon if anybody is interested.

 

[edju1958]

I got my $80 3400 special today.I went through the saw & it was really clean.I think it was a low hr.saw.Missing the bar plates & the adjuster screw is bent,I can't complain about that.I just happened to have a new set of bar plates here for it,but they're both inner plates.Good old Bob J.sold them to me last yr.for my 3700 & the outer plate wasn't machined for the adjuster,so I ended up buyng a set on Feebay.Meanwhile Bob sent me another set.
The saw needed a new fuel filter desperately,the old one was really filthy.I checked for spark & it was kinda questionable,but the plug looked new so I put it back in with a shot of fuel.The saw fired,so I put fuel in the tank & pulled & pulled & it wouldn't fire.I primed it & then it fired.I figurerd I'd have to pull the carb for a rebuild.Something told me to prime it again & I got nothing.I pulled the plug & it was wet,it didn't fire.I hunted around & found another plug for it & swapped it out.I pulled the 1st time & it sputtered,I pulled again & it started running & didn't quit.All the saw needed was a new fuel filter,a good plug,& a carb adjustment.It runs & oils very well.I'll get some pics of it on here when the weather warms a bit.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Condensed version from a whole thread on CRG FB on another black gold 3.3. Just a couple pics. =

I watched this gold black craftsman 3.3 54cc for 4 months. Hoping someone would by it.
Today I said heck with it.
Didn’t even try to start it yet. Seller seemed like one of the most honest I ever dealt with.
Figure a collector or a local will want it.
Suppose to be original bar and chain. Homeowner owned.

Spur hardly been used.

Air filter getting thin on the flock on inner part.

Outer good though.

Others parts all kept clean.

I thought he had done good on the fuel line and tank vent line from quick look. Till I checked the impulse line. They ran the top of carb to tank vent and then no impulse line. Filter in tank was off the fuel line even though all newer.

P+c look good though.

Most psi I have seen from a bare bore.

This saw is SOLD pending me going through it and doing lines etc.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Running and cut with for testing. She lives for another cut. Fuel line, air filter back half, Impulse line.

How NOT to run a impulse line on these. I looped it up on bracket so you could tell what not to do.

Very common when they come in to me.