I agree. Did fire up after a new line and filter, ( and a whole bunch of cleaning) I will start trying to set the carb and see what happens. Still doesn't want to idle and it feels like the idle screw is all the way in. I forgot to look at that while I had the hood off dang it! Revved ok but seemed crazy rich. Tomorrow is another day and another lunch hour!One in that kind of condition is bound to have all kinds of tricks under the black grime.
Excellent point, although I still don't believe a bow guide is much more dangerous than any saw if used correctly. But again, like you mentioned , all of my bow saw experience has been on lower rpm saws.Big difference in kick back between 10,000 rpms and 12-14.
If your filing chains for speed it might be ok but its a dangerous game with the faster saws.
Would love to try that 372. That 026 with the narrow bow I bet is a cutting fool too.Friends. Ran both. The 372 is scary fast using like that with a bow.
026 is ported I sold him. 372 might be one I sold him too.
View attachment 1099656
I never really thought of demographics. With Poulan being made in Louisiana and all the pulp wood cutters down south, it makes sense. Probably got some good deals back then.Bubster - another reason you see so many bow bars on Poulan saws is the fact that Claude Poulan really cut his teeth manufacturing bow bars to ease the task of harvesting pulp wood. Many of the Poulan saws were used in the pulp wood industry and as a result were quite frequently equipped with the bow. If you take a close look at a bow bar you will see the inside of the bar is narrower than the outside edge where the groove is. This allows the bow bar to cut through most logs on the ground without pinching, and by the way, without requiring the operated to bend over to do it.
History of the Bow Chain Saw, the Pulpwood Saw.
by Tom Hawkins & Sons
The beginning's of the modern day bow type chain saw can be directly traced back to the orginal intended use of such a saw, back when it was first invented. The first bow shaped chain saw, appears to be the 1916 Swedish made Sector. But it and several other bow shaped saws that followed, were just that, bow shaped, but not a bow saw.
The bow saw as we refer to it here, was intended mainly for the purpose of a repetitive bucking situation. The term "bucking" is the process of cutting a log into sections, short or long pieces. Bow saws were designed mostly for the harvesting of pulpwood, used for the making of paper, usually cut into 4ft. lengths. The paper industry was huge and required large amounts of wood to make paper pulp. Paper mills provided many a woodsman the opportunity to earn a living by cutting pulpwood. The bow type chain saws have a bar that will not bind or pinch in the cut (kerf), it's a saw that was purposely designed to be pinchless.
Mark
I ran a husky 65 bow for years and it pulled it fine but the 4000’s do just as good as the 65’s . But the 5200’s really make it go! I still will pick up a 4000 before the 5200’s most days.If this has been asked before, I do apologize. I did not read all 2989 pages of post. My question is why the Poulan 3400-4000 saws are so popular with the bow saw crowd. I have owned a few 3800s and still own a PP 375. I know these saws have torque to spare, but just find it odd you never see a bow on an 044 or 372 Husky. Any thoughts?
Hello Bob , you could remove the clutch , drum and bearing for a run and inspection .
Scott
Yeah hotshot has been a great help.I'm glad you got help here for your 306A Jerry.I got squat for help here with my 306A.
Bob, how much?Fellas on the 295's are there multiple series? I may have asked before and if so humor the senile ol geezer.
I shelved one a while back because the clutch bearing or something in that area didn't sound so good. Willing to put a little in it as it seems to be a decent saw otherwise, but I don't want to buy incorrect parts. As always thanks in advance for time you will no doubt save me!!
Jcm , I have a 306a I wanted to fix up at some point but not deeply attached. If I recall ,I think it had a reed issue. If you get desperate, give me a shout. Always looking for Mac 10 series, just saying! Lol
You talking about the 306a, jcm?Bob, how much?
Yeah. SorryYou talking about the 306a, jcm?
Let's switch to pm so other folks don't have to sort through the posts.Yeah. Sorry
Tried all the simple stuff first I imagine. Plug that suddenly bit the dust, plug wire rubbed raw on a cooling fin etc?????Knock,knock,anyone home? I've got a 3400 that giving me fits.I bought the saw a few weeks ago & it fired on a prime,then did nothing after I'd filled the fuel tank.I put a new filter in,took the carb off & found that someone had put the pump diaphragm in the wrong way.Still wouldn't fire up,so I did a compression test on it & it came in at 110 psi (I've got another 3400 that's got 115 psi & it runs great).I pulled the cylinder & put new rings in.The P&C were in pristine condition with no scratches or scoring.I always thought that after putting new rings in that the compression was supposed to come up,not go down??No air leaks that I can detect.
I bought an aftermarket coil for it,but the holes in the laminations weren't big enough for the mounting screws.I drilled them out,but the plug wire is too long & the top cover won't fit properly because of it.I could try that coil again (I know it's not the correct term),but I doubt the saw will fire due to low compression.I've got a new intake gasket coming too.I just get tired of beating a dead horse.I agree Ira,something's definitely screwy here,just trying to pin point it is a PITA.BTW,what is "BGD"?New rings only create more compression after break in , unless there's been physical changes like a BGD.
Something screwy is happening Ed ? Those saws never made alot of compression but pretty much dead reliable.
I changed a bad ignition once on a 3400 , it would still run but start breaking up around 7000 rpms.
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