Nik's Poulan Thread

[WillBrayJr]

No personal attack, one of my best friends name is Willie, so just habit to me to say Willie.

So you proclaim a 4000 to be great but have no, nada, zip experiance with one. Evidently you have no experiance with a Wildthing either, but your still hear taliking them down like you do.

Correct?

Maybe you should go over to the McCulloch or Homelite threads and talk down about them and see what reaction you get there.

You have very little experiance with chainsaws from your postings.

No problem there but lots of others who do, disagree with your opinion about the Wildthing.

Stay cool there Willie, stick around and learn what you can!

I don't own a Homelite or McCulloch so why go into those threads?

I like Chainsaws but I'm far from being obsessed about them so of course I'm not very experianced about their inner workings. But to say that I have little experiance in which I'm talking about using them is far from the truth. I'll have to get the exact model#s I've owned and used over the years and get back to you shortly.

 

[Eccentric]

No personal attack, one of my best friends name is Willie, so just habit to me to say Willie.

So you proclaim a 4000 to be great but have no, nada, zip experiance with one. Evidently you have no experiance with a Wildthing either, but your still hear taliking them down like you do.

Correct?

Maybe you should go over to the McCulloch or Homelite threads and talk down about them and see what reaction you get there.

You have very little experiance with chainsaws from your postings.

No problem there but lots of others who do, disagree with your opinion about the Wildthing.

Stay cool there Willie, stick around and learn what you can!

Now hold on there Mark. Don't you go sending somebody that hates the color RED over to the Homelite thread. We've already dealt with a few of those there.

I like RED Craftsman Poulans (as you may have guessed-LOL), and plan to add YELLOW and BLUE (why are we yelling the colors?) Sears/Craftsman Poulan 25's to the stable sometime down the line...

 

[barneyrb]

Willie,

I'll go one further, I happen to own a wildthing, PP260, and had a new Stihl MS170. Guess which two of the three are still here??

Have you seen the several threads of the small Stihl rods being bent by taking the clutch off? I've never seen a small Poulan with a bent rod, just saying.......

In the small clamshell built saws the Stihl and Poulan Pro are pretty much equal with this exception, if you need a fuel line for a stihl be ready to spend $15 to 20 and the only place you can get one locally is the stihl dealer, where as a Poulan fuel line can be purchased at any small engine and most auto part stores, anywhere they sell Tygon line. If you need main bearings for the Poulan, go to any bearing house and spend about $8-12 and get both sides. Need stihl bearings? Go to Stihl and spend $25-40 for just the PTO side bearing.

 

[dave76]

This must be saw week for me, as I'm on a roll, I put my S25 back together, got a reall nice piston and cylinder from ebay. The Walbro WA-19 needs to be rebuilt, so I installed my Tillotson HU-10 and the saw runs AWSOME. I'm really amazed of how powerful and smooth these saws are. The new bar and chain I had for it is being used on another saw right now. Actually the Bar is an old Poulan 14" from the 70s from a Micro. Anyway pics............

 

[WillBrayJr]

Here's a List of Chainsaws I've either owned/used or used.

Craftsman branded Micro-25, Belonged to 4th stepfather
Craftsman branded S25DA
Homelite Super-2, Original
Homelite Super-2, Stepbrother stole it.
Makita DCS-34
McCulloch Eager Beaver Electric, 1st Saw I actually ran.
McCulloch Mac-2314, Didn't like starting this model.
McCulloch Mac-110, 4th stepfather straight-gassed.
Montgomery Wards branded Remington, 1st Saw
Poulan WoodShark
Poulan 2000
Poulan Pro 210, Belonged to 4th Stepfather.
Stihl MS-170
Stihl MS-211, Belonged to Gun Dealer

 

[dave76]

If this isn't just about the best deal going on a new saw I don't know what is. It is a Poulan Pro model PP4218AV. I got this thing for $90 brand new a couple years ago at Home Depot. It came with a case. It has the heart of a wild thing with good spring mounted AV. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Very easy on the wallet and the hands. It does a pretty good job of cutting wood also. It is probably all the saw the casual firewood cutter would ever need. It is quiet and has decent power right out of the box. I am pretty sure a little tweaking would put it right up there with the best of the consumer clam shell saws of similar size no matter what the color. Some day I will have to take the time to mod it, put on a 16" bar and some decent chain and see how it stacks up.:msp_thumbup:

View attachment 180904

You know a buddy I work with just bought a brand new Poulan 3816 from Lowes for $129, so he brought it to me to tune it after using it a few times, I did the muffler mod (oh BTW these saws are 42cc too, he was happy to hear that) tuned the carb and got him a Oregon 91XVL chain, well he said it's like he bought a different saw, and yes it is very powerful for a consumer grade saw.

 

[barneyrb]

Stephen, that is the easiest saw in the world to mod the muffler on.

Take the one nut off the front, remove the deflector and spark screen, take the two screws out of the tubes, I think it takes a T25, and remove the muffler.

I then drilled the following holes in the muffler, 4 holes at 3/16 ea around the front where the stud is sticking out. I then used the same 3/16 bit and put 3 holes in each one of the tubes you pulled out, now do not drill all the way through, just drill one side. What my goal was to get exhaust flowing out of the tubes.

Reassemble everything except the diffuser, there is a tab to cut off the outlet cover and then take a screwdriver and open the outlet hole by bending it.

Retune the carb and it will run very good then, night and day difference.

 

[jimdad07]

I ordered a Poulan 3300 p+c for that Craftsman. I am pretty sure I read that you can bolt that cylinder to that case. If not, I guess I will have a part for fleabay. Thanks for the info guys.

 

[barneyrb]

very good information. I am going to print this and put it in the case with the saw so I don't lose it before I get a chance to do it. It sounds like about 15 minutes of work.

thank you!

15 if you crack open a beer, 5 is more like it. The only place to watch is drill only one side of the tubes, don't want to weaken the support too much, also make sure the 4 holes around the stud point straight at the port and not into outer shell of the muffler.

I'll take some picures tomorrow night for visual referance.

 

[rms61moparman]

very cool, I have a little variable speed Delta drill press that just loves to get into these kinds of projects. It will take me longer to walk out to the barn and get the saw than it will to do the work...he he, I am a little gumpy and walk slow sometimes...
Pictures are great.

It's actually even easier than that!
Take the two bolts out of the tubes, turn the muffler over and dump the tubes on the bench. Put a couple of washers over the botls and re-install them without the tubes at all.
The factory gave you 2 nice big holes for the exhaust to exit through.


Mike

 

[jimdad07]

Well if Mark said it won't fit I would me amazed and astounded if it did....he knows more about these things than anyone I know........

You can almost always bolt things on, but they are not always "bolt on"

Sometimes you have to port match the case and or elongate/relocate the mounting holes for the cylinder base bolts. You will also want to do a careful check of the deck height from the old cylinder to the new one and check the squish to make sure things are not going to bump into each other. If you get the cylinder and it don't fit, send me a PM and I will buy it from you if you don't want to mess with it.

It will probably fit in a flat rate box at the post office. I have several of that series of saws, in several different sizes and at least one my smaller ones is very ill. I am pretty sure I will be able to find a home for it. I kind of like cobbling things together.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Oh crap, I thought I read that that p+c will work on that base. Too late now, may have to learn some more very quickly.

 

[jimdad07]

I now a 3300 P&C will bolt right on as I've done it. Haven't seen a PP330 or similar saws but I'll look into it.

Here was one of them, and I had a couple others say the same in a different thread. Like I said, great learning time if not.

 

[barneyrb]

It's actually even easier than that!
Take the two bolts out of the tubes, turn the muffler over and dump the tubes on the bench. Put a couple of washers over the botls and re-install them without the tubes at all.
The factory gave you 2 nice big holes for the exhaust to exit through.


Mike

I've done that but the tubes support that heavy muffler and I'm afraid that it would break off with viberation.

Both ways work......

 

[jimdad07]

I just read Mark's post on that note, I think he was talking about the PP330, not the 3300.

 

[rms61moparman]

I believe the 3000 and 3300 is a direct swap.

The 330 is not, but I believe it will work with a bit of "mounting bolt alteration".


Mike

 

[jimdad07]

I can't keep up, I don't know if Mark commented on it or not...let us know how it turns out so we can all learn from it...and like I said...I can use the parts if you don't want to mess with it.

You got it, you might be doing a little schooling if I have to modify the base. The saw was free so it makes it a little easier to turn into a lab rat. I was quite surprised at how well built that saw was when I tore it down. The only Poulans besides my PP415 I have ever had experience with have been the box store ones. Very well made little saw. Looking forward to making it breath again, btw, the carb on it had the H screw turned out about a half turn from seated. Wonder what took out the p+c?

 

[redunshee]

I believe the 3000 and 3300 is a direct swap.

The 330 is not, but I believe it will work with a bit of "mounting bolt alteration".


Mike

Yup, you got it Mike. 2700,2800,3000 and 3300 are about identical except for P&C. PP330 I don't know about.
Bob

 

[redunshee]

You got it, you might be doing a little schooling if I have to modify the base. The saw was free so it makes it a little easier to turn into a lab rat. I was quite surprised at how well built that saw was when I tore it down. The only Poulans besides my PP415 I have ever had experience with have been the box store ones. Very well made little saw. Looking forward to making it breath again, btw, the carb on it had the H screw turned out about a half turn from seated. Wonder what took out the p+c?

1/2 turn open is way too lean for the HI screw, but I suspect you knew that. Standard is 1 turn open for Lo and HI. You may want to do a pressure and vacuum test to be sure you have no leaks in the seals or cylinder after you install P&C. No need to use a gasket but just a good fuel resistant sealer like Dirko HT. I assume you plan to replace impulse line, fuel line etc. I also open up the muffler by drilling three holes in the front and enlarging the diffuser inside the muffler. Keep us posted.
Bob

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yup, you got it Mike. 2700,2800,3000 and 3300 are about identical except for P&C. PP330 I don't know about.
Bob

Right Bob, the 330 was the one (among others) that I was saying was different.

The 3300 jug should bolt on.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I have a Poulan 3500 which I just got running today but when I go to start it, it seems to pre-ignite just a little making it hard to pull the rope. I wonder what I need to do...I don't think this saw has a compression release but if they're all this way they could use one. Not hard on me but might tear up the starter which has already been replaced once.
I haven't adjusted anything yet, just got it going. New fuel line, impulse line, vent.