Saw this advertised for a smoking deal, so snapped it up right away!!!
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Meh.........I suppose it might be considered a good deal if you like scoring large cc rare chainsaws in good shape for small money. :jester:
Meh.........I suppose it might be considered a good deal if you like scoring large cc rare chainsaws in good shape for small money. :jester:
I bought a few old saws when I first started doing this, then realized I'd probably never cut any wood with them, so I mainly just buy saws now that you wouldn't mind fueling up and cutting a tree down with.
Hi folks. First time poster here. Not sure if I'm posting this to the right location but my question is regarding a Poulan saw, so hope this is the right place.
I was cutting wood with a Poulan Pro 262 when it seized up. No apparent reason for it, other than I was working it pretty hard. I was using the same gas/oil mix for a couple of days without a problem until this happened. The saw is maybe 4 years old but doesn't have a lot of hours on it - maybe 10? Left it overnight hoping it would loosen up after it cooled down. No dice. So ended up taking it apart to find the cylinder and piston scored, but was able to break the piston loose eventually. Ordered a replacement piston and cylinder, but when they arrived I was surprised to see that the mounting holes in the cylinder were not threaded. Just clean bores. The four cylinder mounting holes, two carb mounting holes, and two exhaust mounting holes were all this way.
I contacted the parts supplier and they said most people use self-tapping bolts so they come unthreaded. I am not a mechanic by trade, but I've done lots and lots of my own mechanical work over the last 45 years or so, and this is the first time I ever heard anything like this. I have a tap & die set so threaded the holes myself and got the thing back together. The saw is running great now.
Do people really use self-tapping bolts on these things?
Love this site, by the way. Just found it the other day. I worked for Homelite as a parts/shipping clerk way back in the mid 70s and have had a soft spot in my heart for chain saws ever since. Kind of nice to mess with them again.
Hi folks. First time poster here. Not sure if I'm posting this to the right location but my question is regarding a Poulan saw, so hope this is the right place.
I was cutting wood with a Poulan Pro 262 when it seized up. No apparent reason for it, other than I was working it pretty hard. I was using the same gas/oil mix for a couple of days without a problem until this happened. The saw is maybe 4 years old but doesn't have a lot of hours on it - maybe 10? Left it overnight hoping it would loosen up after it cooled down. No dice. So ended up taking it apart to find the cylinder and piston scored, but was able to break the piston loose eventually. Ordered a replacement piston and cylinder, but when they arrived I was surprised to see that the mounting holes in the cylinder were not threaded. Just clean bores. The four cylinder mounting holes, two carb mounting holes, and two exhaust mounting holes were all this way.
I contacted the parts supplier and they said most people use self-tapping bolts so they come unthreaded. I am not a mechanic by trade, but I've done lots and lots of my own mechanical work over the last 45 years or so, and this is the first time I ever heard anything like this. I have a tap & die set so threaded the holes myself and got the thing back together. The saw is running great now.
Do people really use self-tapping bolts on these things?
Love this site, by the way. Just found it the other day. I worked for Homelite as a parts/shipping clerk way back in the mid 70s and have had a soft spot in my heart for chain saws ever since. Kind of nice to mess with them again.
OK, trying to troubleshoot this oiler. First one went fine, second no luck. I have the plunger quad O ring ordered for it. Until that shows up, I have taken it apart and cleaned it out again. I was looking at it, tracing how the impulses must work, and noticed this in the housing assembly in the pic (scratch awl indicator). This is an inlet/outlet area for the impulse (I think). You can't see it in the pic, but down in there is a tiny spring and a ball bearing, they are in there good, not coming out that way. Put in before the two pieces of the housing were glued together it looks like. I am assuming this is a check valve. However, on the outside of the hole, there are three indented bosses. What I am wondering, does another little piece fit right there, and those three indentations show where it gets pressed in to fit? A screen maybe, like the little screens in carbs? Or some other do-dad?
I don't know, but if nothing goes there, I see no need for the three bosses, either, and they are definitely there and done on purpose. There is nothing indicated for that hole in the IPL, and I don't recall seeing anything there when I had the other one apart. Thanks in advance if anyone knows the answer! I'll try it again when my other little part comes in, but I would rather know before then if I am just slap missing a critical part.
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It looks like the boss's are to hole the dark circle piece with the hole in place. Tom
Anyone know where to order clutch springs for my S25CVA?
Thats a new one on me?
It looks like the boss's are to hole the dark circle piece with the hole in place. Tom
I am in the exact opposite mindset. I am looking for sweet old saws that I can fuel up and cut some wood with. I'm not saying I'd abuse it or fell and buck trees all day, but I'd use it. There's a guy restoring an old sand cast Stihl Lightning on the forum, and if I were doing that, I'd have to at least cut some cookies with it.
Nick
Putting the thing together is half the fun...isn't it?
The first two or three times can be, then it get quite repetitive, in a hurry.