Nose sprocket bearing wear signs?

[Canyon Angler]

Did a search on this, but no luck...

I had some trouble with an oiler on my saw (now fixed) and although there are no signs of burning on the Stihl Rollo ES 20" bar, I recently noticed it seems to make a different sound when I tap the throttle out of the cut. Specifically, it sounds like there's a "shhhhhhh" sound coming from the area of the nose sprocket. When I had the bar off, I noticed there is some binding or resistance to turning in the nose sprocket -- not a lot, and no "crunching" or anything you'd expect from a broken bearing, but there is some resistance. (After that I tried to clean out any crud from the nose with brake cleaner, and I now have the tip of the bar soaking in clean 30W non-det oil.)

Is this new "shhhhhh" sound anything to be concerned about? (I'm wondering if it's just the sound of a dry chain.) What are the signs, if any, that the nose sprocket bearing is going south? And if it does go bad, what normally happens? Will it throw the chain? I've had chains come off of old Craftsman saws, but never had one actually break...and I don't want to!

Sorry for the long winded question and thanks for any replies.

Jeff

 

[SawTroll]

I really don't have a clue - just speculating - but I would say, run it until it eventually fails, and then change the nose if the rest of the bar is in good shape.

Maybe the break cleaner has cleaned out the capsuled nose sprocket lube (Stihl spesiality) - if that is the case, it probably will not last long......

If you are doing serious cutting, bring another bar or another saw with you.

 

[Lakeside53]

If this is the same saw you put 30 tank of mix for one tank of oil, then yes, you may have a problem...

It may be o.k. once you get some oil back in there. Usually they don't throw chains -just get real loose and eventually burn up and seize.

Replacements are about $16, but I'd just use it until it shows real wear.

 

[bama]

When my nose sprocket went, the sprocket broke in half and it doubled over the tip. At first, I couldn't figure out what happened. The chain would not move. Never gave me any indication of failure until it did. Now, I use the rail of that bar for sharpening my chains.

 

[wdchuck]

My 24" ES bar tip sprocket was wobbly and could move it in/out like the hole in the sprocket was oversized or ovate, changed it out with a new one, now no worries.

 

[Canyon Angler]

Thanks, guys. It seems a little better now after soaking it in 30W oil. I'll just keep an eye on it.

If this is the same saw you put 30 tank of mix for one tank of oil, then yes, you may have a problem...

Actually, I probably only used about 2 tanks of premix, but since I only used 2 Tablespoons of bar oil, the 30:1 ratio is probably correct!

 

[Lakeside53]

Actually, I probably only used about 2 tanks of premix, but since I only used 2 Tablespoons of bar oil, the 30:1 ratio is probably correct!

Now you clarify the other thread! No one could understand how your bar lasted 30 tanks!

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Are you sure you got your oiler working right?



Heard this same thing the other day when cutting with a saw I was testing out on the coldest day we have had this year.



The saw wasnt pumping oil at all, so I quit rather than damage the bar/chain.

 

[olyman]

do stihl bars have a hole at the tip---to grease the roller??? id never rely on the oiler alone---i grease mine ever second tank--and have NEVER replaced a tip--but have wore the bar completely out--

 

[Lakeside53]

No, they haven't for a very long time.

Do a search.. this topic has been thrashed many many times.

 

[bwalker]

Id just swap the tip out before it breaks at a inopportune time. Just IMO.

 

[SawTroll]

do stihl bars have a hole at the tip---to grease the roller??? id never rely on the oiler alone---i grease mine ever second tank--and have NEVER replaced a tip--but have wore the bar completely out--

Lakeside is right, regarding the German made ("real") ones, but some are rebadged Oregons. Those have greasing holes.

 

[olyman]

i had two bars i bought that didnt have greasing holes---hmmmmmm--got to the msc catalog--bought a 1/8 in solid carbide bit---two of them--just in case--measured on the bar that did have the hole--and proceded to drill the hole in the bar--went slow--on my press--this being very important--DONT freehand--if you go slight sideways--by by bit--and just as i broke thru--i quit--they are now greasable----!!!!!!!!:biggrinbounce2: that carbide bit will drill some mighty hard metal--but dont go fast---end of that problem!!!!!! did the same to a friends sprockets on the end of his cornhead chains--deeres wanted 50 bucs a sprocket--good for two seasons!!!!!!! ended his problem!!!!!