The Echo CS-501P I bought underwent a small modification today. I removed the little cross-shaped obstruction Echo put in the plastic carb intake thing. A guy who runs a dyno on Youtube claims this got him a tenth of a horsepower, so why not?
This saw has had maybe 4 tanks through it, and I removed a factory obstruction from the muffler as well as modding the intake, so I figured it was time to tune it. I used my ear and a Proline tach.
I tuned the saw according to the instructions I put together from various sources. I took the limiter caps off, warmed the saw up, set the idle so the chain started to creep, and used the tach and L screw to get the max RPM, which was 3820.
I slowed the chain down until it stopped, although I didn't make sure I was at 2700, the factory setting. I started adjusting the H screw.
I got 14,900 at first. The factory max is 13,800.
My understanding is that at this point, I was supposed to richen the mix until the saw misfired at WOT. I started loosening the H screw.
This worked with my other Echo, but this one never misfired. It just ran slower as I loosened the screw, going down into the 12,000's. I finally set it at 13,500 and went in the house.
Am I doing something wrong here?
Those limiter caps were a bear to get off, and the special tool I ordered to thread into them did not fit. I didn't know there was a plate pressed into the carb to hold them in. I threaded a wood screw into one, put the screw in a vise, and pulled like hell on the carb. Finally, the plate came off, and I realized it was the problem.
I had some new caps that weren't chewed up by a wood screw, so I removed the tabs using a bench grinder and installed them.
This saw seems to sling a ton of oil. Is it possible it's because it has a short bar that needs less oil? I am running a 16" bar because I want a light, nimble saw that's overpowered for its length. I had to blow out all sorts of grease-and-fines paste, and after I cleaned the saw with alcohol, I reduced the oil flow.
I thought this saw would be as simple to work on as my CS-590, but Echo put two different sizes of screws on the carb, which is annoying. Also, there are 4 washers on the carb screws, and at least two are proprietary. One fell into the saw when I took the intake off. I made a custom washer, and when I was tuning the saw, the original fell into the grass where I could pick it up.
There were dry fines all over the area under the air filter. It seems like some of the wood I cut generates more of this stuff than normal trees. A lot of the things I cut are really dry, because trees here are sickly. I saw an air filter add-on that allows the use of a bigger filter, and I thought it was stupid until I opened this saw up and saw all the crud. Now I may buy it.
I may open the muffler up more before long. I am considering trying to braze a little pipe onto it.
This saw has had maybe 4 tanks through it, and I removed a factory obstruction from the muffler as well as modding the intake, so I figured it was time to tune it. I used my ear and a Proline tach.
I tuned the saw according to the instructions I put together from various sources. I took the limiter caps off, warmed the saw up, set the idle so the chain started to creep, and used the tach and L screw to get the max RPM, which was 3820.
I slowed the chain down until it stopped, although I didn't make sure I was at 2700, the factory setting. I started adjusting the H screw.
I got 14,900 at first. The factory max is 13,800.
My understanding is that at this point, I was supposed to richen the mix until the saw misfired at WOT. I started loosening the H screw.
This worked with my other Echo, but this one never misfired. It just ran slower as I loosened the screw, going down into the 12,000's. I finally set it at 13,500 and went in the house.
Am I doing something wrong here?
Those limiter caps were a bear to get off, and the special tool I ordered to thread into them did not fit. I didn't know there was a plate pressed into the carb to hold them in. I threaded a wood screw into one, put the screw in a vise, and pulled like hell on the carb. Finally, the plate came off, and I realized it was the problem.
I had some new caps that weren't chewed up by a wood screw, so I removed the tabs using a bench grinder and installed them.
This saw seems to sling a ton of oil. Is it possible it's because it has a short bar that needs less oil? I am running a 16" bar because I want a light, nimble saw that's overpowered for its length. I had to blow out all sorts of grease-and-fines paste, and after I cleaned the saw with alcohol, I reduced the oil flow.
I thought this saw would be as simple to work on as my CS-590, but Echo put two different sizes of screws on the carb, which is annoying. Also, there are 4 washers on the carb screws, and at least two are proprietary. One fell into the saw when I took the intake off. I made a custom washer, and when I was tuning the saw, the original fell into the grass where I could pick it up.
There were dry fines all over the area under the air filter. It seems like some of the wood I cut generates more of this stuff than normal trees. A lot of the things I cut are really dry, because trees here are sickly. I saw an air filter add-on that allows the use of a bigger filter, and I thought it was stupid until I opened this saw up and saw all the crud. Now I may buy it.
I may open the muffler up more before long. I am considering trying to braze a little pipe onto it.
