notch?

[Husky372]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
And so was borne the long standing feud between the loggers and arborists...

and alls i said is i didn't see the need for a rope. then all the arborist start taking it as some kind of insult and start the fued all over again. so watch out loggers becuase we dont know anything about trees, or how to drop them safely, were all just hacks.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I hope I didn't make you feel like that.

 

[Husky372]

no mb you are one of the few arborist on this site that doesn't seem to think loggers are........

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

The original poster was try to set up a situation to answer a question about barberchairing. Instead of offering help, you made made a joke.
Tell us how you would fell a 60' tree against a 5' lean, and explain about baberchairing.

 

[Husky372]

you must have an odd sense of humor, becuase i dont remember making a joke. i made 2 suggestions, wedge it or drop with lean which is what i would do since the original senerio is in a field. as for preventing barberchairing i like to plunge cut.

 

[SteveBullman]

thats enough now girls

 

[BigJohn]

Husky you didn't answer Mikes question. Are just avoiding this one? Most loggers are hacks. When it comes to get them down and out and on the truck they are great at what they do. Don't ask them to clean up the mess they leave behind such as the broken hanging limbs in trees they leave behind.

 

[murphy4trees]

I think this thread most clearly demonstrates the difference between loggers and arborists.... My point was, and is, that there is a different mentality and approach to the work... Some of the rules are the same but it's a different game... Kinda like golf and basketball.... Both are trying to put the ball in the little hole, but in golf you get paid for a low score, and in basketball you get paid for a high score...

Now the original post didn't use the term field... he used hte term open area... OPen area to me means lawn... to a logger it means field... So why drop it against the lean if your a logger? Probably a bunch of good reasons...

And for an arborist the reasons I can think of mostly have to do with what we do after the tree is on the ground.... Maybe we want to drop the tree in the street, so we don't have to rake up or fix the grass... maybe we want to drop it against the lean so we don't have to carry anything uphill, or maybe its closer to the truck and chipper, so taking a few minutes to set a pull line can save a lot of hard work moving the tree.... Maybe we want to use the log from that tree to cushion the fall of the next tree coming down... There are a lot of possibe scenarios that would never come up for a logger...
If a logger can put 99% of 60' trees on the ground without a rope... great for him.... I put a rope in 95+% of my 60' trees, even when they are front leaners and I AM in a hurry... I still do it cause what happens if the tree goes the wrong way.... A logger is willing to take that chance... An arborist won't becasue it costs too much.... A logger doesn't have to worry about dealing with an irate customer.... We gotta care about the bushes and flowers... Big Jon's company doesn't even let him put divits in the lawn.... That's a lot different than a logging...

 

[Husky372]

big john you got big mouth. how did i avoid the the question? i said i would plunge cut, or are you such an idiot you dont know the meaning. or is all you arborist can do to make yourselfs feel better is to try and run down loggers i have seen more hacks in the arborist business and when there hacks it shows up alot more than when a few branches are hanging in the woods that could have been cuased by any number of things not just logging.

 

[Husky372]

murph that was said alot better than the last one with the condesending attitude. but i did say i would most likely drop with the lean, no wedging.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by stephenbullman
thats enough now girls

What he said.

 

[Husky372]

i quess i just make people becuase i have the nerve to open my loggers mounth in this sacred forum for arborist

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Hey David, did you notice 9 out of 10 of your posts include an ?

Maybe some counciling would help. Have you seen the movie anger management?

 

[Husky372]

hey mike did you ever think of taking math again becuase it is just the last (3) three post. thats only becuase everyone seems to enjoy attacking.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

The sad part is, math was my best subject.

 

[Husky372]

you might be in trouble then

 

[MasterBlaster]

Alright!

So, who's got the brewskis???

 

[lostone]

OK found the link I was trying to get at, the reason I used the term slabbing is he used the term slab out in his first post. barber chair

 

[BigJohn]

Husky you need to calm down there buddy, thats that mentality Murph is talking about. You just said you would plunge cut. I believe he said explain. Maybe plunge cut is a term you saw earlier and your just going along with. It doesn't make me feel better to bash loggers. I just like to stir the hive. No grimmice on my face here I'm just having fun with ya You're just an easy target today.

 

[glens]

In case anyone's wondering, I'm not husky372.

Actually, the way I read the original question was that there was a tree in an area which could accommodate it falling in any direction.  As an exercise (perhaps?) the tree would be felled to the opposite direction from its lean.  So what would be a good method to do so?

In that light, husky372 was correct, but didn't address the question, really.

In order to ensure the tree won't barber-chair while making the notch, simply make the notch shallower than "usual".  Doing so will require more lift in the back cut but it will be somewhat easier lift (rather like using a longer lever vs. a short one).

There are many ways available to generate the lift.  Wedges alone would likely be the most work, but it can be done.

If your feet are going to leave the ground anyway, you should probably drop some of the weight off the backside first and set a rope fairly high (try to guess the point where there is equal moving mass both above and below the attachment point; but at least no higher than the point where the stem can withstand the side load which will be generated).  Start the back cut normally, but be sure it's perpendicular to the grain as it heads toward the notch, and insert wedges early and often.  It's especially important to have the wedges go into a cut that's at right angles to the grain in this instance since there will be great pressure and you don't want the growth rings to separate because you're not at right angles to them.

Divide the work equally between the rope and wedges, stacking them as necessary, even using the removed notch as filler if required.  That way, if the rope setup fails for any reason, at least the tree won't go over backwards, and if the wedge setup fails, (maybe) the rope will hold it.

Making a call as to how thick to leave the hinge is difficult sometimes.  If you leave too little, there's a chance of it pulling out and dumping the tree backwards.  If you leave too much, it aggravates the situation by requiring more force to bend it.  The rule of thumb to leave 10% of the diameter at hinge height is usually a bit too excessive for my taste, but works well for this scenario.

I've also cut pockets and used bottle jacks in lieu of rope.  The more a tree leans away from the desired fall, the more work it is to fell it.  Sometimes it just isn't feasible.

Okay?

Glen