Novice sawyer looking for opinion and suggestions on hand filing
- Thread starter Hipastore
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Is that before filing or after?
Backstage
ArboristSite Operative
NO expert here. But I am willing to bet those with more experience will say that your file is WAY too high. You have no gullet, and the “knife” angle of the tooth where it’s actually doing the cutting is extremely obtuse. It will scrape the wood, not slice it.
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Looks like that would work to me although I usually go a little deeper for a more aggressive bite. I am thinking the edge is more likely to hold a little better and it be less grabby as in the picture. May be more comfortable pruning small limbs or cutting saplings but a little slower bucking bigger stuff.
gwat
ArboristSite Lurker
This is a seriously invaluable tool for anyone learning to hand file:
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/filing-equipment/combination-gauges/
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/filing-equipment/combination-gauges/
thenne1713
ArboristSite Guru
Can we also say you have no raker/ depth gage and flat file? I RECOMMEND the newer STIHL 2N1 file that files cutter & depth at same time.
sand sock
ArboristSite Operative
you are sharpening with some sort of a jig. its fine, but if you can add in just a round file and put some more gullet in it. your working only high in the tooth.
with out having a raker gauge tool or running your hand across teh top of the chain. your rakers are off. but you need to see 2 sets of cutters. its a deceiving picture, at the angle of the bar.
with out having a raker gauge tool or running your hand across teh top of the chain. your rakers are off. but you need to see 2 sets of cutters. its a deceiving picture, at the angle of the bar.
echomeister
ArboristSite Operative
free advertising
The tooth does not look bad. I have a few comments and suggestions...
1. Others have mentioned the "lack of hook" in the tooth curve. Yours is not "wrong", because the angle depends on what you're cutting. Mostly, the side plate angle is around 55 degrees (Husky/Oregon/Carlton) and 60 degrees for Stihl RS. However, some Stihl chains, including the Picco models and Carbide chains, specify angles as steep as 75 and 80 degrees.... As stated, this will create a strong, long-lasting edge, at the expense of a bit of speed and self-feed. However, for most general word, angles around 60 degrees are sufficient. Thus, dropping the file down a bit to where 20 - 20% of the file is sticking out above the tooth will produce a slightly greater C-shaped hook.
2. The tooth shown does not look very sharp. It's really difficult to tell exactly from the photo, but it looks as though it could have done with 2 or 3 more strokes with the file in order to really get that "edge". I would expect a chain which has about a tank or two through it to look like that. Once again, it's difficult to be exact from this picture.
A word of encouragement... If your filing looks like this good at the beginning, you will likely become a very proficient hand-filer. Be patient, and always check your work. It takes months, sometimes years, to become very good at it. Don't be afraid to experiment. Cut with this chain as is, then file it with a bigger hook and note the result. You can then add a a slight "up" angle on your filing angle, and once again note how things improve (or don't).
Keep on trying and share your results with us. That way we all learn. Look up chain filing/grinding/sharpening threads on this forum and watch some YT vids. Plenty of good info available.
My 2c.
Mike
1. Others have mentioned the "lack of hook" in the tooth curve. Yours is not "wrong", because the angle depends on what you're cutting. Mostly, the side plate angle is around 55 degrees (Husky/Oregon/Carlton) and 60 degrees for Stihl RS. However, some Stihl chains, including the Picco models and Carbide chains, specify angles as steep as 75 and 80 degrees.... As stated, this will create a strong, long-lasting edge, at the expense of a bit of speed and self-feed. However, for most general word, angles around 60 degrees are sufficient. Thus, dropping the file down a bit to where 20 - 20% of the file is sticking out above the tooth will produce a slightly greater C-shaped hook.
2. The tooth shown does not look very sharp. It's really difficult to tell exactly from the photo, but it looks as though it could have done with 2 or 3 more strokes with the file in order to really get that "edge". I would expect a chain which has about a tank or two through it to look like that. Once again, it's difficult to be exact from this picture.
A word of encouragement... If your filing looks like this good at the beginning, you will likely become a very proficient hand-filer. Be patient, and always check your work. It takes months, sometimes years, to become very good at it. Don't be afraid to experiment. Cut with this chain as is, then file it with a bigger hook and note the result. You can then add a a slight "up" angle on your filing angle, and once again note how things improve (or don't).
Keep on trying and share your results with us. That way we all learn. Look up chain filing/grinding/sharpening threads on this forum and watch some YT vids. Plenty of good info available.
My 2c.
Mike
Thanks, sir. These really help me a lot.
Joseph Acquisto
ArboristSite Operative
This is what I recently got and used. After a bit of getting used to it (half a chain), I find it easy to use and the chains cut as good as new. If is very much like the Stihl version, just cheaper. Just be sure to order the correct one for your saw/chain. I've got two now, one for each saw, which have different chains.
2 in 1 sharpener.
2 in 1 sharpener.
Sir? I don't mind keeping it informal here! Call me Mike!
Got it Mike!
https://prnt.sc/2GvzqcvCKEWEon higher quality chain packaging the angles to sharpen are given with the proper file size
https://prnt.sc/tl8f_A0vqb3F
https://prnt.sc/tl8f_A0vqb3F
