Oil test thread

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Sounds like a lot of hate in this thread towards a guy trying his best to help lots of people every week with everything from screwdrivers to welders to gloves.

Perhaps everyone who finds his tests to be bad or useless can point us towards their channel/site/videos with your tests so we can see how to do it properly.
 
Sounds like a lot of hate in this thread towards a guy trying his best to help lots of people every week with everything from screwdrivers to welders to gloves.

Perhaps everyone who finds his tests to be bad or useless can point us towards their channel/site/videos with your tests so we can see how to do it properly.
No hate. It's just his test are an average really bad.
And most of us have better things to do than create content for your entertainment.
 
Sounds like a lot of hate in this thread towards a guy trying his best to help lots of people every week with everything from screwdrivers to welders to gloves.

Perhaps everyone who finds his tests to be bad or useless can point us towards their channel/site/videos with your tests so we can see how to do it properly.
I don't hate on the guy, he's just trying to hustle a buck.
 
One of my saw repair customers used to collect gallons of waste cooking oil that he obtained for free from a restaurant. His favorite pub was throwing it away in gallon jugs. He used that waste cooking oil in all of his chain saws for bar oil. Whenever he brought his saws into my shop they smelled like cooked onions. Amazing what some men will do to save a few dollars.
Foolish restaurants. They can sell used oil to biodiesel manufacturers.
 
He spent how much on 6 new bars and chains to run this test? What a clown, he could have just asked, we could have told him to just buy the cheap **** and be done with it.
Maybe not all cheap stuff is that good.
 
I use the '2 finger test' with bar oil, always. Put some between your fingers and separate them and if it 'strings out', it's good. The Menards cheapo bar oil, passes that test just fine. Kind of surprised about the high buck Stihl oil being basically crap.
Mate that test is good one, it indicates the bar oil has a "tackiness additive" which is a long chain polymer additive to help oil cling to the chain and not be flung off. At times in the right lighting you can see long strings coming off off the chain. Other additives used include sap solvents to help keep bar and chain clean of gums and resins and extreme pressure additive. Another aspect is lubricant shear stability- resistance to shear of the thin oil films present in highly loaded chain pins and links. Here very little relative motion of surfaces occurs during operation( 180 degree turn on bar nose and at drive sprocket) this is where EP additive comes to do its job where fluid films fail.The way all this is achieved is by selecting high quality solvent refined and hydrotreated base stocks of suitable viscosity, to which above additives are added. Hard to know if these additives are present, so looking at oil suppliers literature may mention. Chain and bar oils have low dose additive levels as total loss and thats all that is needed. Much bling and glitz on these oils, however but its tough to do field testing to say one oil better than another. Nice color of oil means nothing!! I studied Tribology so above based on basic principles of how to lubricate moving parts in this type of application, any comments from others in this field welcome.
 
Mate that test is good one, it indicates the bar oil has a "tackiness additive" which is a long chain polymer additive to help oil cling to the chain and not be flung off. At times in the right lighting you can see long strings coming off off the chain. Other additives used include sap solvents to help keep bar and chain clean of gums and resins and extreme pressure additive. Another aspect is lubricant shear stability- resistance to shear of the thin oil films present in highly loaded chain pins and links. Here very little relative motion of surfaces occurs during operation( 180 degree turn on bar nose and at drive sprocket) this is where EP additive comes to do its job where fluid films fail.The way all this is achieved is by selecting high quality solvent refined and hydrotreated base stocks of suitable viscosity, to which above additives are added. Hard to know if these additives are present, so looking at oil suppliers literature may mention. Chain and bar oils have low dose additive levels as total loss and thats all that is needed. Much bling and glitz on these oils, however but its tough to do field testing to say one oil better than another. Nice color of oil means nothing!! I studied Tribology so above based on basic principles of how to lubricate moving parts in this type of application, any comments from others in this field welcome.
Bar oil doesn't typically or ever contain an EP additive because a bar and chain doesn't encounter EP.
The tach additive is often paratach which is also known as PIB as found in the majority Jaso FD two cycle oils.
I think it woukd be a mistake to think bar oil is a highly engineered product. It really isnt.
 
I am glad somebody did this test I hope he includes other brands in the future I have seen the prices sky rocket on this oil hope to save a few dollars
 
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