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tony marks

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as some know ive mentioned that with the chain rite ,about the only limitation on several of my saws was the ability to keep enough lube on the chain in hard cut. hardcut being for example ,
a 20 inch chain buried to the hilt in a 35 inch dry hardwood. [bucking]
i just assumed, that the oiler had reached the limits,of its ability to put enough lube on the chain.these are saws that sling it pretty good when tested to see if its oiling. comments from users and mechanics appreciated.are my oilers just weak.thanks tm
 
What type of bar oil are you using? How do you know its too dry? I noticed that when useing thinner bar oils the saw pumps more. I noticed this when ran out of summer bar oil and had to use winter bar oil the other day.
 
No matter what I do to the oiler on my 670 it seems to not be able to keep up either. On either the 20" or 28" bar I get sparks every once in a while, yet it still pumps oil and is close to empty when I refuel. I removed the filter and its set at "4", and I have tried two completely different oilers.

So now after every full bar cut I just dump a little on the bar. I am done pissing with it for this year
 
ive used several oils . the snapper oil i found at walmart . works as good as any. the poulan in the green container
just aint so good. what is it with poulan and green,always being junk.almost like they want that, green color to be known as crap.
i know its not oiled enough in those situations i mentioned ,because the saw starts cutting poorly and gets very hot an dry.
i know the saw well enough now to pull it out of cut and let her oil up good .im good for a while then.dont get me wrong now. in cutting what this saw is made to cut ,shes great. 35 inch oak is not typycal pulpwood.still this seems to be the only thing that i have to watch. otherwise she does anything a 20 inch bar will let her do.
 
MS 360 PRO oiler

I too have a Ms 360 PRO and find that while bucking, my 20" ES bar gets pretty friggin hot at times. The oiler is wide open and so is my throttle while cutting. I am running an RS saw chain. Saw cuts great, bar and chain get hot when bucking larger pieces. Not sure if I have only been in hard woods yet, havent tried it in pine. Plenty of power and a great saw so far. It drools when I rev it and let is sit. Stihl says it is oiling enough, cause it will spit all over on my concrete garage floor. I guess a hot bar may be normal when cutting at high revs for a period of time in the timber...
What do you all think?

-Drew
 
Hot bar is normal, a blue bar (from overheating) is not. Mine just concerns me because I get occasional sparks off the thing. But my bars and chains are not bluing yet. I guess it seems insufficient because the oiler on the 55 REALLY puts out the oil.
 
My bar isnt blue, well its hard to say because the paint is still on. the edges on the top of the bar where the chain drivers/tangs go into the channel dont seem to be blue, but the chain looks like is has some blue coloring to it. I think it has always looked that way though.
What are some sure fire ways to tell if your bar and chain are burning up? Like I said before, this saw just drools oil when you test it (rev it a bunch) and let it sit turned off. leaves a puddle and drips oil from the sprocket covering. Also after a bunch of cutting, the cut wood chips on the inside of the sprocket housing is somewhat oily. A friggin mess to clean up as you know, so I have to assume that she is oiling ok. Thanks for any more information.

-Drew
 
well i havnt seen the bluing of the bar yet. so i guess its okay. actually the 036 is a pulpwood saw. so i wouldnt consider it a fault ,if it was a little lacking in the thick hardwood.
i do remember noting that on dans power ported 372 the oiler was sufficient for anything with 20 inch.
 
rubber seals causing oil hemorage

My husky 51 did not appear to be lubricating properly and oil was flowing from the bar mounting area but not much was getting through the bar. Upon disasembly I found that the two rubber seals that surround the pump were hard and shrunken. I am assuming that this is causing oil to leak under the mounting plate and not through the bar. I have ordered the seals and am hoping this will solve my problem. Any comments or help is greatly appreciated as usual.
 
I checked my MS360 last night for signs of bluing on the chain and bar. The bar, nothing no blue. Then the chain. The only spot that is quetionable is on the actual cutter. The top of the cutter, the part that is sharp as shizznit, is very light metal color, obviously from slicin and dicin wood, but the part under the cutter at the base where the links are to the rest of the chain is somewhat blue. But overall the whole chain is not. The part that seems to make the most sense to look at is the actual driver/tang that runs inside the bar channel. If that were blue, than I would think that you were having real high temps do to bad oiling. But mine are nice and purdy metal colored.

-drew
 

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