OK Lakeside

[sawinredneck]

You are killing me Lake!!!!!!!!!!! FINE I WILL TELL!!!!!!!!!!

This is the 046BB that Freakinstang "Doc" built in the Freakingstang support group thread (and yes, it does run like a bat out of hell!!!! VERY HAPPY WITH THE SAW!!) I finally got to run it for real saturday, this was a Locust 28"DBH, brand new GB TI bar and brand new GB/Carlton chain in 32". Dropped the tree with many problems, all my fault BTW!!! Cut it up and some of the bigger pieces where to heavy to carry so they were halved and quarterd with the bark/grain, not ripped. t has the stock 046 oiler, not the big one, and I was using Klassic bar oil from Atwoods and the oiler is maxxed out. The wear on the chain doesn't bother me, the paint off the bar doesn't bother me, and no Ben, I am not the least bit concerned with the quality of GB bars!! I am wondering if I need to step up to the bigger oiler, or put the 7 pin sprocket on, it has an 8 on it now, because I am not comfortable about the "blueing" on the bar. And I did rev it out of the wood and it got to sit quite a bit, two other idiots with saws that reuired babysitting (SCARY STUFF)
Cats out of the bag, open for ideas?
Andy

 

[sawinredneck]

The chain is 3/8 .063

 

[Lakeside53]

Hard to tell from the photo, but that ONE hot spot - did you pinch the bar by any chance?

I'm not sure how else can you get a single hot spot when cutting big wood?

 

[sawinredneck]

Hard to tell from the photo, but that ONE hot spot - did you pinch the bar by any chance?

I'm not sure how else can you get a single hot spot when cutting big wood?

As many things went wrong that day, I cannot say yes, and cannot say no, but don't remeber doing it, good posibility though!
Andy

 

[Lakeside53]

The chain is 3/8 .063

That answers my question about the "other brands" of 063. Stihl's 063 has a round hole in the tang, as well as the oiling groove, to keep the oil where it's needed. Probably why they make their oil output so damn stingy today - works well with their chains opcorn:

I doubt the diffence is huge, but if you're on the edge, it might make "the" difference.

 

[sawinredneck]

That answers my question about the "other brands" of 063. Stihl's 063 has a round hole in the tang, as well as the oiling groove, to keep the oil where it's needed. Probably why they make their oil output so damn stingy today - works well with their chains opcorn:

I doubt the diffence is huge, but if you're on the edge, it might make "the" difference.

Yeah, you made that point very well the other day, forget the thread, but I remeber the mesage:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[sawinredneck]

HMMMMMMM............. No other thoughts on this?
Andy

 

[geofore]

pinched bar

The pinch in the bar is the problem and did you run the saw long enough to flip the bar? Blueing is the heat and shows the tight pinch of the rails on the chain. A hammer and flat screw driver (scrench) will take the pinch out. Flip the bar over at the end of each day so you even out the wear on the bar. It's easy enough to pinch a bar in the cut if you let the tree sit on the bar or try to give the bar a twist in the cut to get it loose. Locust is hard enough to to do it, more so than other woods. So your bar is no longer a virgin, tap out the pinch and flip the bar. It'll do a lot more cutting before it's worn out. You do know the pinched bar wears the tangs on the chain thinner so the chain is loose in the rails and if you don't widen the pinch the saw will start to cut sideways on you as the chain will ride left to right in the rails as the tangs get worn to fit the pinch. I can't tell if the blueing is from just the pinch or you're leaning on the saw way to hard in the cut. Let the saw do the cutting, no need to lean on it hard unless you're racing for a fast time in the cut. I wouldn't try to race through a locust but try a softer wood for the races. When you hit a knot in a locust it can feel like you're hitting a nail, they are that hard. Sharpen your chain, take the pinch out of the bar, check to see that your oiler is adjusted all the way out, flip the bar and get back out there in the wood.

 

[sawinredneck]

Thank you Geofore, as I said, it was an hour and a half of cutting, never dulled the chain enough to need to change the chain/flip the bar. I am leaning more to the pinch as well, it cut fine cross cutting, but quartering the wood it would cut a bannana cut, nice arc top to bottom.
Next question, you are harping on my chain choice, yes it was cheap but seems to cut good. Cutting hardwoods mainly in sandy type soil, or along fence rows(never know what is in the wood), what would be my best choice for chain with the 32"?
Andy

 

[geofore]

cutting in sandy soils

Here's what happens in sandy type soils. The wind blows the dust (reads abbrasive like sand) up into the bark where it sits just waiting to dull the fine edge off the tips of the cutters. Fence rows as you pointed out, you never know what you're going to hit in the wood. 32" bar is for big stuff, a 24"-28" bar will work, unless you're using the saw for lowering stumps. You just need to alter your cutting style to make the best use of a shorter bar. I usually don't put the 32" bar on my saws unless I'm into bigger wood, 4'+ or lowering a stump to the ground. Chains are the owners selection, like opinions everybody has one they think is the best. On fence rows, chain is going to take abuse and then how much are you willing to spend is the issue. You either spend time on sharpening or more for tougher chain that you'll have to sharpen more often anyway. Lessen the angle like Dolmar says to 25* It doesn't cut as fast but it stays sharp longer. It all comes down to what are you asking the saw to do and how much are you willing to spend? Cross cutting is a different as night and day to end cuts or length cuts and they are best done with different chains. No one setup does it all, the best. Why do you think we have so many saws? I set mine to do different jobs. Like splitting the wood to get it in managable pieces, you may find a wedge and hammer faster if you set the pieces on end and cut in a 45* angle the depth of the bar height 4"-6" to set the wedge in to get it started. But, if you've got the saw in hand why would you want to put it down to pick up a hammer and wedge? You'll say, I can cut that baby in half just as fast and not realize how hard it is on the chain, dulling it quickly doing end cuts. The guys on the milling forum can tell you how they change the angles on the chains to do milling. It makes a world of difference. No one set up does it all, which is what you're trying to do with the chain setup for the best crosscutting and your trying to do milling cuts to get small pieces that are easy to handle. Just remember what you're trying to do and the abuse the chain is going to take. Sandy soil and fence line says lots of abuse. Expensive chain and lots of shapening or cheaper chain and lots of sharpening? No matter how much you spend on the chain it's not going to do different jobs and do each one the best. It's not the chains so much as it's the job you're asking the chains to do. So now you know why we have a selection of saws on the job, each one does a different task. The same is true with why we have a selection of bars and chains for each of the saws. One setup does a task better than another. Maybe you just need a couple more saws??:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[sawinredneck]

Don't know me very well do ya?............ This is my big saw, and was built just for what I wanted it to do, Freakingstang and I discussed this in-depth before it was built, it was built to be a woods saw and light milling saw. I have a 25" and a 32" and that is all I plan on having for it. It will sit a lot, but be there when I need it, like the big cottonwood and hackberry trees I have to take down soon.
I have other saws that get a lot more use, guess I need to put them in my sig like everyone else LOL!!!! I have a 192t, husky 350, husky 262xp (gets used the most) and the 046. I have at least 3 chains fo each saw, as well as a file kit for each and a grinder, sharpenng is not a problem.
I am not tryng to "rip" these pieces, I am cutting parallel to the bark, lnog stringy chips, not the fine powder milling will produce.
Methinks this is getting overcomplicated.
Andy

 

[Freakingstang]

Glad to hear the saw runs good for you Andy.

My thoughts, if you are going to continue to run the long bar, I would swap the piston and screw for the 460 West coast H.O. Casey did this and said it helped out tremendously. I never ran a bar that big on it, but with a 24" bar it cut very well and oiled fine.

Check your bar groove. invest in a cheap bar groove cleaner to get all the fine chips/gunk out of the bar groove. It is possible that with a long bar, the chain tension got a little loose and got some chips in the center of the bar. I had a problem with a total bar that did a similar thing. once it was cleaned out, it was fine.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Yes, the HO oiler piston and screw made a noticeable difference. The swap is very easy too.

I did it to my new 660 before I even started it.

BTW, Ive been in touch with the guy that bought my 460 BB. When he said it was running well, it pulled 36" full comp chain without issue.

Hes having carb issues with it now, and I think my rebuild left something to be desired.