Okay so this worker

[Andrew W.]

Okay so I watched a guy flush cut a stump today, now the way I was shown was, you clear out as low as you can go without hitting dirt, rocks, chain link fence, and other stuff, get on your knees put the saw sideways, eyeball the bar levelness and cut 90%, insert wedge or bark and Finnish the cut.

This guy didn't eyeball the bar, didn't look around the area of the tree stump for rocks and stuff, when it was over the end result was a swirl and the Finnish cut didn't even come close to the starting cut, chain was sharp, it wasn't oak or anything, am I wrong to assume that he had no clue what he was doing, and yes in case you were wondering we watched him wedge and sledge the bar out.

Now I am young yes, I am also the low guy in the totem pole at this company, am I wrong, what do you all think.

Also I seen someone use the top of the bar to do the flush cut, like in stead of coming at it from the right side and litting the dogs dig, they went at it from the left side going In and used the top, I always use the falling spikes and sink it in

They're is nothing like standing up and the aroma of getting covered in sawdust and exhaust fumes, it almost swells the air, nothing else like it, to me a good flush cut is like the cherry on top or maybe I am just picky.

 

[Groundman One]

Okay so I watched a guy flush cut a stump today, now the way I was shown was, you clear out as low as you can go without hitting dirt, rocks, chain link fence, and other stuff, get on your knees put the saw sideways, eyeball the bar levelness and cut 90%, insert wedge or bark and Finnish the cut.

Did two maples yesterday in exactly that fashion, except no wedges, they weren't big enough to need it.

But you do have to hang on to the saw, you get a pinch and the saw can come back at you pretty quick and with enthusiasm.

 

[acer-kid]

Using the top of the bar fires kerf into the cut. No need for a wedge. Works great

 

[BC WetCoast]

So was the Finnish cut developed by some guy from Finland? I've never seen it.

If your saw cuts with a slight dish, you can easily end up with a swirl. If you're doing a number of stumps, you're bound to rock your chain and it may take a couple of sharpenings to get it to cut straight again.

 

[Andrew W.]

Using the top of the bar fires kerf into the cut. No need for a wedge. Works great

That makes sence I just didn't know if that was a wrong way of doing it, some spots it would be easier

 

[Andrew W.]

So was the Finnish cut developed by some guy from Finland? I've never seen it.

If your saw cuts with a slight dish, you can easily end up with a swirl. If you're doing a number of stumps, you're bound to rock your chain and it may take a couple of sharpenings to get it to cut straight again.

This I know all to well, the chain was sharp however I did not sharpen it, so it was up to whoever did it to take equal amounts of metal off the teeth, and keeping the rakers in check.

Thanks for replying I enjoy hearing back

 

[Andrew W.]

Did two maples yesterday in exactly that fashion, except no wedges, they weren't big enough to need it.

But you do have to hang on to the saw, you get a pinch and the saw can come back at you pretty quick and with enthusiasm.

You are correct, my saw when I was in Florida was big red, (jonsered 2188) it was the beater saw for the big stuff and with a good chain it did well but some lessons are just learned as you do things. Have a good day