Old apple tree renovation

[mhtmtreespade]

I have a good client that has a dozen mature apple trees (12-14" caliper). They have never been pruned. They are about 25' tall x 25' wide and are planted 20' on center. As you can imagine, there is a great deal of leggy growth and low dead wood. He wants me to prune, cut back and shape them, knowing that it will require two to three years time. All of this leads up to the fact that he also wants them transplanted to another location 15 miles away.

I have a 90" Big John tree spade which is the size needed for these trees. I have maintained many Apple trees over the past 25 years but have never cut them back as drastically as will be necessary for this job.

Any advice will be appreciated

Thanks, Mike

 

[jomoco]

I'd do the brutal pruning first, wait for the regrowth to become established, then transplant them the following spring.

jomoco

 

[mhtmtreespade]

How brutal is ok. I have seen photos of cutting all foliating limbs out. Then training the new sucker growth. Have you done this before?

 

[jomoco]

How brutal is ok. I have seen photos of cutting all foliating limbs out. Then training the new sucker growth. Have you done this before?

Not with fruit trees, but with young oak trees(Q. agrifolia), using a Big John 90 inch treespade no less.

Simply prune the minimal lateral radius needed to facilitate transport of the trees.

I've heard Richard Harris talk about semi-girdling of old orchard trees to shock them into regrowth mode to get more mileage and fruit out of older trees.

Like most transplants, a small percentage of them probably won't survive the shock, pre-shocking them before transplant to determine their hardiness kinda makes sense.

jomoco

 

[mhtmtreespade]

Thanks for your advice.

Mike

 

[Kate Butler]

Is his intent for them to become a bearing orchard, or just pretty in the Spring?

I would have reservations about such severe pruning followed by transplanting the following year.

I'd consider root pruning a year before the actual moving - just use the spade and make the cuts, but leave the trees in the ground.

 

[pdqdl]

...

I'd consider root pruning a year before the actual moving - just use the spade and make the cuts, but leave the trees in the ground.

I was thinking the same thing, only not quite as severe. I don't think there is any point in leaving the tree in the same hole; all the roots have been pruned, you might as well move it too.

If you have two years to work with, and budget is not the primary concern, do some subordination and crown reduction now, then prune more extensively next year. Less shock, you should get more favorable growth as a result.

Doing some root pruning would force the tree to grow a more concentrated root ball, which might be essential for their survival. A small trencher would be relatively effective. Root prune at the final root ball diameter on two sides this spring, then on the other two sides next spring. Root barrier fabric would probably be effective in concentrating the root density close to the trees. Be sure to provide additional water to support the injured tree. Sadly, this approach also exposes the trees to greater risk of blowing over, so additional staking would probably be indicated.

Transplant the following winter, prior to spring.

Another approach: instead of using the big tree spade (altogether effective), rent a huge excavator and dig a larger root ball. The more earth and roots that you transplant, the higher your survival rate.

I transplanted 2 crabapples & 2 redbuds a few years ago in the middle of July, with only one that died. They were all about 10"-12" diameter at 1 foot off the ground, with at least a 12' spread. I took my mini-excavator and trenched up a 6' square around each one. Then I took my Bobcat A300 and lifted the 1' deep square chunk of ground out with the tree holding it together. It was more than the machine could carry, but I was only moving them 75 yds, so I pushed them into the properly sized hole. It turned out much better than I predicted, since I told the customer that they were sure to die.

Trees the size and distance you are moving would probably require a crane and semi-truck to load.

 

[mhtmtreespade]

Thanks everyone for your input. It's all helpful.

Mike Hearn

 

[Kate Butler]

I recommended leaving in the hole after root pruning to eliminate the necessity for guying or staking until ready to actually make the move. It also allows the tree to make more smaller feeder roots to enhance transplant viability when moved.

 

[winchman]

orchard pruning - my experience

Here's a thread I started on another forum about this topic - hopefully it helps...

http://tinyurl.com/yc6wu42

Good luck!

Royce

 

[DavidBrown1212]

milk this job!

I would would root prune moderately now, do some crown thinning late winter/ early spring, and transplant the following dormant season with another crown reduction.

I would not physically constrict root growth yet as it may promote circling. Remember that the main idea behind crown reduction for the purpose of transplanting is to avoid excessive transpiration after digging it up(i.e.severe root pruning). Root pruning while still in place will preserve many micro root hairs which makes a big difference compared to digging one up and moving it.

So milk it! Drag it out a while, it'll be good for tree and you.