Old Ashley stove that looks like a TV.

[SamT1]

Helping a friend move and he was gonna junk this old Ashley stove. We decided I may want it in my shop. I used to sell wood to an old lady with one. She had a house wind would blow through and you usually wanted the wind it was so hot.
Anyways there’s no rules or code where I live, I just don’t want to burn my shop down. It’s tin wall with spray foam insulation. Can I just cut a hole and go straight out the side with an Insulated pipe or does it need to go up?
Flue hole is in the side of this thing not the top. I don’t want to go out my ceiling because I don’t want it to leak.

 

[s sidewall]

You should be able to go straight back a few feet then go out the wall. May want some kind of heat shield behind the stove next to the wall for safety reasons. Maybe a heat shield flange plate where the pipe goes through the wall, safety reasons also. Insulated pipe going through the wall is good and going up for your chimney pipe past the roof line.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

 

[tla100]

Simplest and cheapest is go straight up with single wall up to the ceiling, then use double wall thru roof. If go thru wall, need double wall pipe all the way outside.

 

[dave_dj1]

Through the wall with insulated pipe, then a Tee with a clean out on the bottom and then up over the roof line by 2' or so.

 

[SamT1]

Through the wall with insulated pipe, then a Tee with a clean out on the bottom and then up over the roof line by 2' or so.

It came with 2 joints of the insulated pipe. Would you just go a foot out of the wall and then T it so there is some air and just use single wall on up? Shop is tin with spray foam insulation on the inside.

 

[Mad Professor]

It came with 2 joints of the insulated pipe. Would you just go a foot out of the wall and then T it so there is some air and just use single wall on up? Shop is tin with spray foam insulation on the inside.

Single wall outside is going to cool down and you'll have a creosote problem

 

[SamT1]

Single wall outside is going to cool down and you'll have a creosote problem

Ok, I thought it was just to protect the house.
thanks!

 

[Mad Professor]

Ok, I thought it was just to protect the house.
thanks!

That too.

When I pust a SS liner in my fireplace chiminey, to install a woodstove. I ponied up the extra $$$$ for the insulation kit, even though the liner was inside the existing fireplace chiminey. It was money well spent, I get almost no creosote buildup. Only place that really needs cleaning is the screen on the chimney cap, once a year. I get about 1/2 -gal of ash from the flue

 

[TRTermite]

Ok, I thought it was just to protect the house.
thanks!

Single wall should have the crimped ends towards the stove. Stops draft loss and helps direct creosote find its way back to stove.
I see many insulated TEEs deteriorate ahead of schedule (probably just me).

 

[old CB]

Been having a similar conversation with my brother who's planning to have the Amish build him a camp. He talks about putting stovepipe thru the wall and building his own chimney stacking the square concrete chimney blocks outside. My advice is to run a factory-made triple wall insulated chimney straight up thru the roof (like in my Amish built camp). My camp has steel roof, and was built with the flue installed.

The thru-the-roof arrangement is easily done, not expensive, and will perform much better than the outside arrangement. The problem with an outside stone (or concrete) chimney is that all that stone is a heat sink, constantly being cooled by outside temps and wind, which means you have a cooler, less optimal flue temp.

 

[old CB]

Also, I understand completely if this is an issue of being wary of perforating a roof. But done correctly and carefully, the perforation should not cause issues.