One crank tool to rule them all!

[Mattyo]

the small rod is just a carriage bolt ... 5/16" I needed to make it smaller because if I up the size to 3/8" then the 5/8" rod gets too weak. for me it was either deal with super cheap carriage bolts or risk breaking a rod. a new bolt can be purchased from depot or lowes for pennies.

since I haven't bent a 5/16" rod yet ... it might be you got a soft one or applying a little too much pressure. don't need much more than maybe 10 ft lb torque to seat the crank.



or were you referring to something else bending?

 

[Mattyo]

one left until I get new stock....

 

[drf255]

The one you supplied me with is approximately 14” long. It looks like a standard coarse thread and should be cheap to replace.

Again, very happy with the tool. Even though the piece above is arced, it’s still fully functional.

 

[Mattyo]

ah, thats 3/8" threaded rod. right now I'm using carriage bolts as the handles and I think they are a little stiffer than the rod. plus I don't have to cut them

I'll bring one to the gtg at Dan's... its yours

-Mattyo

 

[Mattyo]

out of stock. I don't have an eta but I hope its only a couple weeks before I have more rods. I will take preorders if anyone is interested.

 

[Junkwrencher]

I am pleased with this tool I purchased from Mattyo5. This is my video review.

 

[gary courtney]

You making one to fit 661 ?

 

[Mattyo]

Yup...I have a 661 rod available

Thanks junkwrencher!

 

[Junkwrencher]

Bump. It's me again Margaret.

 

[Mattyo]

couple things, i'm 3 minutes into the vid...

#1, threaded rod first, then sleeve, then handle
#2, when you install the threaded rod, it does NOT need to be tight on the crank, just thread it down until it stops, and back it off until its in a convenient spot in the rotation to access the handle hole
#3, i wouldn't do this vertically, part of the idea of the handle is to have it on the bench so you can use a ratchet on the nut and use your free (left?) hand to control the con rod and/or guide the case halves home.


hope this helps make this process go a little smoother. I think these things are super slick

 

[Mattyo]

kits back in stock... pm me if interested

 

[Junkwrencher]

Yes sir, agreed.. The reason I was vertical in the beginning, I left the oil pump in and wasn't sure the sleeve would clear the drive gear, once I confirmed it did, I went horizontal. I should have let the carriage bolt swing around and rest on the bench. Hindsight, and the whole world watching if they want to.....

 

[Mattyo]

it'll get even smoother as you do more... guess u gotta put a few more 660's together

 

[Mattyo]

as an update, i'm caught up on all orders of kits. I have good stock at this point and can fill other orders immediately.

couple things have changed.
#1, new rods are being thread milled on a cnc lathe ... the threads look quite nice
#2, 440 specific kits are no longer being made. the rods just turn out too weak and it just isn't possible to make these correctly, the main kit certainly does 440 saws, but I cannot make a saw specific tool kit anymore
#3, 576 (575, 570) rods are being looked into. by design this needs to be a singled ended tool and the ones that the previous machinist made were ... uh... a pain to mass produce
odds are this rod will need to be cut out of a 3/4" round rod blank, not threaded rod. this presents issues due to the extra low volume of 576 rods requested ...
#4, the most common failure I know about on the tools has to do with user error. you cannot use a small aluminum sleeve on a saw with 6203 bearings. most commonly the flywheel side rod (which is 5/8") gets used with the small sleeve (5/8" ID) on a saw that has a crank that is 17mm. the aluminum sleeve which is designed to accomodate 16mm crank OD will get mushroomed. SOLUTION: use the large sleeve on large bearings ... even though its 3/4" ID sleeve, the 5/8" flywheel rod works fine with it. users that have the kit will make sense of this nearly immediately
#5, 2nd most common failure has to do with breaking threaded rods due to improper use.... they are NOT designed to pull bearings into crankcases. once you have the bearings properly installed in the crankcase, ONLY THEN do you grab the crank tools and pull the crank through the bearings (and subsequently the case halves together).
#6, crank seals.... I know that many crankcases come with crank seals (and bearings) pre-installed. IMHO, you do not want to be doing 2 things at once ...ie... pulling the crank through the bearing AND the seal at the same thing. I think this is asking for trouble. if a case comes with seals pre-installed, pull the seals out, install the crank, get the case halves together, THEN install the seals (with the coke can trick). doing it this way seems to me to be the only way to ensure the crank seal doesn't prolapse.
#7, I do need to work on an instruction sheet / cheat sheet ... I'll get to it.


I think i'm above 200 kits sold at this point. These things have gone to Germany, New Zealand, Austrailia, Finland, UK, Holland, Alaska etc. I'm having a fantastic time talking and meeting new people and see the doors this project has opened up. Thanks to everyone that has made this possible. This has been a super annoying and long road but its finally starting to turn around and be a fun project!

 

[smsnc20]

If you are thinking about getting this tool kit just do it. As soon as you see everything go together in a controlled manner you will say i should have gotten this sooner. No more fumbling around freezing this and heating that. Making sure stuff is turned the right way will be a thing of the past. You can watch the case come together slowly and stop and adjust anything you need. This kit is a great addition to anyone who loves building kits or rebuild saws.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[Huskybill]

There are different sized threads on my husky saws.
Here’s my husky 2100 tool. I purchased every husky case assembly tool. Then I purchased the husky tools for installing the crankseals.

 

[Mattyo]

There are different sized threads on my husky saws.

?


do your husky saws have differen threads than my husky saws? not sure what you meant Bill.


and yes, the factory does have install tools but you have to buy a bunch of them to come up with what I put into a more convenient package.

personally I think my design is more elegant than theirs, but thats just me lol.

If you are thinking about getting this tool kit just do it. As soon as you see everything go together in a controlled manner you will say i should have gotten this sooner. No more fumbling around freezing this and heating that. Making sure stuff is turned the right way will be a thing of the past. You can watch the case come together slowly and stop and adjust anything you need. This kit is a great addition to anyone who loves building kits or rebuild saws.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Thanks Stephen! couldn't have said it better

 

[Huskybill]

Not all the saws have the same size threads. I have all the husky factory crank installation tools they dont interchange.

 

[Mattyo]

Ah... my kit covers most of them...and it does interchange

The only one right now proving Trixie to integrate into the kit is the 576xp.... it has m15 threads which is oddly big.

But the rest are covered no sweat

 

[Huskybill]

Ah... my kit covers most of them...and it does interchange

The only one right now proving Trixie to integrate into the kit is the 576xp.... it has m15 threads which is oddly big.

But the rest are covered no sweat

I even found a husky assembly tool for my older 2100. I purchased the seal installing tools and the tapered cones to push the seals over the step on the shafts